Axes?

[scott_vt]

The problem I have with wood handles is that so many of them you see today look like junk. Rough, poorly finished surfaces. Wide, too straight grain looks like it would break easily. I think a really good wooden handle would be preferable to FG, but it might be hard to find a really good wood handle these days. I have always had good luck with a rubber 'doughnut' just below the ax head to protect the handle and so wouldn't hesitate to buy an ax if it had a high quality wood handle.

Good Evenin George,
Up until two years ago I split all my firewood by hand !

Here is just a couple observations on my part. First I would much rather have a real good handle on my splitting mauls rather than a fiberglass.

Why ?

If you can find a good quality hickory handle, they will not break easily ! If you are over swinging your mark and busting heads off then your the one that needs help, not the handle. If you overswing enough with a fiberglass handle it will eventually shatter, and then your left with a piece of junk !

If you destroy a quality hickory handle, you can allways go out and get a new one..... I have used one handle on my 8 lb maul for years with no ill effects. Same with my 6 lb maul.

The only axe I have is my old Boy Scout hatchet that I use primarily for limbing, and it works great for that purpose.

Sorry Im just not a fan of fiberglass handles, and yes I have had one... and only one in my wood carreer ! JMO !

Good luck in the hunt !

BTW, granted most of what I just stated is in reference to splitting mauls and not axes...

BBTW , yes donuts can help, for those that trouble with hitting the mark !

 

[N80]

Hi Scotty. I agree with everything you said. However, their is more than one way to use an ax. Sure, if you are splitting wood in a proper set up, with proper wood in the right place and all that, if you are tearing up a handle the problem is with the swinger not the handle. But, sometimes, for some people, splitting wood might be a different ball game. Knotty, twisted wood. Wet soggy ground. Etc. Etc. That can change things and mistakes can happen even if you have a pretty good swing.

But, in the case of my favorite old (fire) ax, I've been through two good hickory handles in 25 years, even with a donut. But, it has never had the privilege of simply splitting wood in ideal circumstances. It has been used to break rocks, demolish sheds, buildings and barns, poke holes in 50 gallon drums, cut down trees, split firewood, dig holes, cut sheets of tin, etc etc.

Having said all that, I come back 'round to completely agreeing with you. Even under that sort of use, two handles in 25 years isn't that bad and the second one is still on there and is in good shape.

And, since the ax I'm looking for is unlikely to be used for that many abusive things, a good quality wooden handle would likely serve me well for many years....with a donut of course....since in truth, when I get worn out, my swing goes to heck.

 

[MikeD74T]

Here's a company that's been making quality axes for a long time. Snow & Nealley - Axes & Mauls MikeD74T

 

[Scooby074]

just ordered an estwing hatchet based on the above - man I learn a lot from you guys - and the fact that estwing carpenters hammers are of such amazing quality. If the hatchet is half as good I'll be happy.

Youll be pretty happy with the Eastwing. Really tough. I like the rubber handgrip (like the hammers) on the axe cause it gives you a good grip plus absorbs the vibrations. I carry it on my 4 wheeler and in my trailer when camping. Maybe not the best felling axe compared to some of the specialty ones, but a good rugged, general purpose axe.

 

[archerm3]

ever since I got one of these, I can't remember ever using my axe or hatchets.

Chainsaw does the heavy stuff. Still use a maul for splitting.

 

[mjfox6]

ever since I got one of these, I can't remember ever using my axe or hatchets.

Chainsaw does the heavy stuff. Still use a maul for splitting.

"Some folks call it a sling blade, I call it a kaiser blade. Mmmm-hmmm."

Sorry, couldn't resist!

 

[Wis Bang]

Youll be pretty happy with the Eastwing. Really tough. I like the rubber handgrip (like the hammers) on the axe cause it gives you a good grip plus absorbs the vibrations. I carry it on my 4 wheeler and in my trailer when camping. Maybe not the best felling axe compared to some of the specialty ones, but a good rugged, general purpose axe.

I had the leather handle Estwin hachet as a boy scout. It was stolen and I never replaced it though I have several leather handle hammers. As faf as hachets go you can't go wrrong w/ the Estwin.

 

[Charlesaf3]

Estwing is 16". N80 is going to sell me on a fiskars too. I can justify it on the longer handle. Da** I'm a sucker for tools.

Any model # on fiskars?

I can't really justify going for the grundfos or whatever it is, I just don't use an axe enough. I've used a maul to split, but I like the harbor freight hydro splitter a lot more I have to say.

I call the rubber donut the overstrike protector. And I've found I need one - I have a maul head lying around to prove it.

What do you guys use as a base to split firewood? I was going to leave a stump in for it, but decided to get it ground since its near the drive

 

[scott_vt]

What do you guys use as a base to split firewood? I was going to leave a stump in for it, but decided to get it ground since its near the drive

Good Afternoon Charles,
When I was doing all my splitting by hand, I use to use a 6" slab of a very knarly type of birch or maple that was all knotted up and would never split by hand easily ! Most of my rounds were cut at 18" so the total height was about 24 " high that worked out pretty well.

If I was doing my splitting in the real cold weather when the ground was frozen, especially oak, I didnt use anything. It popped easily and you could motor along at a pretty good clip !

BTW stumps are nice too but invaribly are in the wrong place to do the job at hand !

 

[Charlesaf3]

Thanks Scotty,

Yeah, that's my problem with stumps. I've got rocks, but I find when I go all the way through that its a bit hard on the edge. I'd guess winter the same? We don't actually get enough ground freeze down here to find out.

I find doing it on the sand we call dirt loses a whole lot of energy into the dirt.

I like the 6x30 slab of maple idea. Think I've got to get hold of one next time I'm in VT.

 

[dmccarty]

I don't split firewood by hand anymore but use a hydraulic splitter run of the tractor. When I did split by hand I would put a round on a bigger round. I usually had a few around.

I broke my longer handled splitter and had to buy a new one. The new one is too short. I don't know why they make them so short. Not real safe if you are tall.

I just saw the Eastwing on a forestry supply site. I have not seen them locally though.

We call the Sling Blade aka Kaiser a brush axe.

Later,
Dan

 

[N80]

archerm3, we call that thing a bush ax or brush ax around here. It works okay on brush and vines. It feels more like a weapon than a tool....but when you're at war with the blackberries and gums a weapon is a good thing. But, one day when I was absolutely worn out I took a wild swing at a little (maybe not so little) gum tree, hit the trunk with the handle and cracked it. Since then I've found that a good machete works as well for me.

Charles, the Fiskars come in several models. I prefer the ones with longer handles (28") and with the 'chopping' head. The other head is a splitting head and is wedge shaped. As you can tell you I'm really a big fan. I've kept my roads clear with one of these things for years (overhanging branches, pines and gums too big for the bush hog, ect). I make a game of seeing how few chops it takes to fell the small pines (6-10" diameter). It makes me smile when I can drop one in 3. You'll be amazed. The Gerbers are identical and are made by Fiskars I'm told, so go with whichever one is cheaper.

 

[Charlesaf3]

chopping roadside pines? That did it for me. One
Fiskars 7858 Pro Chopping Axe

ordered. $35.07 off amazon

 

[N80]

chopping roadside pines? That did it for me. One
Fiskars 7858 Pro Chopping Axe

ordered. $35.07 off amazon

Let me know what you think about it.

 

[jimmyj]

Charles, if you can, get the fiskers sharpening tool (it is just a small plastic thing with 2 sharpening stones inside and it's pretty cheap). It works great.

You will love that axe I bet.

 

[atgreene]

Welcome to Peavey Manufacturing Company

Peavy Manufacturing has great tools. Axes, Peavy's, cant dogs, pole saws, mauls, bolt hooks, crow bars etc... etc....

I've ordered lots of stuff through them, been very happy. Their mini splitting maul is real slick for splitting small stuff.

 

[Charlesaf3]

Jimmy - I've got the fiskars sharpener for my knives. Bought it because of the Fiskars name, but gotta say I don't love it much in truth. Went and looked at it just now, though, and its not the axe one - is that one better?

On an axe I usually use a file. Just filed the edge of the new Estwing. Its got the leather handle, not the blue grip btw. Seems like a really nice hatchet, and I'm hoping to find it a home out of the weather on the tractor - its got a mini-sledge end in back, so I'm thinking it can replace the 2lb sledge I usually carry to tap things that are stuck. Nice leather holster will keep me from slicing up me and my hydraulics in the process, at least that's the theory...

 

[jimmyj]

I also sharpen my axes with a proper axe file and then finish them with a diamond "file' thingee. I love doing it and really they probably should not be that sharp, but, as I said earlier I have an axe thing.

The fiskars axe sharpener does seem to work well on the fiskars axes but I have not ever thought to use it on any other axe. I assumed the angle was "pre set" in some way. For the price, it's quick and easy but I agree with you that a real proper sharpening would not likely be done with a quickee tool.

This is the thingee I have, is it the same as what you have?

FISKARS TOOLS 78616984 "AXE & KNIFE" SHARPENER

 

[Charlesaf3]

I also sharpen my axes with a proper axe file and then finish them with a diamond "file' thingee. I love doing it and really they probably should not be that sharp, but, as I said earlier I have an axe thing.

The fiskars axe sharpener does seem to work well on the fiskars axes but I have not ever thought to use it on any other axe. I assumed the angle was "pre set" in some way. For the price, it's quick and easy but I agree with you that a real proper sharpening would not likely be done with a quickee tool.

This is the thingee I have, is it the same as what you have?

FISKARS TOOLS 78616984 "AXE & KNIFE" SHARPENER

Love the diamond stones for getting things really sharp, but I worry that too sharp an edge on an axe might dull too soon? I use them on my knives and plane irons though, and get the edges past razor blade.

I've got that same sharpener from the looks of it. I don't like how the "wheels" are arranged - I've got an old wusthof sharpener that I like the design of better - seems to give a good edge with less work. Wusthoff has stopped making it for some reason though.

I figure the edge of the axe should have a 45 or so V, so it doesn't fold over too easy. But what I don't know about sharpening could fill books... Amazing what some people know.