B2650 stopped and won’t start

[number two]

The pumpguysc early on recommended disconnecting the shutdown solenoid at the pump to eliminate any electrical issues.
He knows his stuff!
Please try it!
Good Luck!

 

[denchen]

Over here (USA) many northern states and regions "winterize" diesel fuel that we purchase at the pumps just like you. The problem is that I am never SURE which ones are and are not "winterized," especially in places that are on the edges of very cold zones, source of the fuel is not known, etc. Just cannot count on it. In some places kerosene is also called paraffin but not commonly among diesel users in the US. Here #1 fuel oil is kerosene and can accurately be referred to as #1 diesel or as "lamp oil." Using a 50/50 mix of #2 diesel with kerosene is (or was) common practice in our northern states in heavy equipment where temps often went below zero F or below around minus 8 C.

Yea, I think you guys do get it a good bit colder than us, even though we do sometimes get a cold spell. Looking at this guys problem with his tractor, I'm not convinced it's gelling thats his problem.We have lots of diesel cars on our roads, I have one myself, but never seem to have problems due to the cold. This guy to me seems to be getting air into his system, lets hope he sorts it.

 

[gstrom99]

I can rig a tarp surround, but a little concerned about running an electric heater.

Try a kerosene torpedo heater? More of a fire risk, but more btu's...

 

[Jimbo16720]

Anything is possible but it seems awfully unlikely that some complicated mechanism or gizmo failed right in the middle of his working and running the tractor. Seems more likely to me that the fuel gelled (and the sputtering partial restarts are typical of that problem.) I'm thinking various other issues were fallout from taking the fuel plumbing apart.

I have a friend with a Bx23 that had his quit one day. He ran the tractor shut it off and wouldn't start the next time. It was the fuel shutoff that went bad that fast. Electrical components can go at any time doesn't have to be a slow process. Diesels run on fuel and compression. Electric is only needed to work the starter. No fuel no running, that's why a simple air leak stops diesels from running. The fuel shutoff is nothing but an electro magnet that pulls a pin out of the way to let fuel pass through. It's like turning the fuel off with a valve. Easy way to check is unhook it and turn the key to on and see if it pulls the pin in. If it does it's ok.

 

[Jhawker23]

So if it's pumping fuel after the bleeder screw, would that eliminate the solenoid problem and fuel shutoff problem?

 

[thclimer]

So if it's pumping fuel after the bleeder screw, would that eliminate the solenoid problem and fuel shutoff problem?

I would beleive so but to be sure as was suggested just remove the fuel shut off solenoid, it is only 2 bolts. However, if your tractor starts with it removed you'll either have to reinstall the shut off or block off the air to the engine as your tractor will not shut off.

 

[ruffdog]

So if it's pumping fuel after the bleeder screw, would that eliminate the solenoid problem and fuel shutoff problem?

You mean that little hose you took off when you did the video? NO! That is only showing your lift pump works. The solenoid shuts off of fuel in the injector pump. I'm thinking there is so much air throughout the fuel system that it needs a knowledgeable person to troubleshoot and bleed it at this point.

 

[thclimer]

You mean that little hose you took off when you did the video? NO! That is only showing your lift pump works. The solenoid shuts off of fuel in the injector pump. I'm thinking there is so much air throughout the fuel system that it needs a knowledgeable person to bleed it at this point.

I guess if it were me I'd put all the hoses back on, remove the fuel shut off solenoid, loosen (maybe 1/2 a turn) one at a time the nut on the fuel line as it connects to each injector and turn the engine over until there was a good squirt/flow of fuel, then tighten that nut down and proceed to the next nut.

If you can't get a good bleed than there is either a blockage or your pump is bad?

If you can isolate the blockage to one line and you feel its gelled use a hair dryer to warm that line.

 

[gstrom99]

I guess if it were me I'd put all the hoses back on, remove the fuel shut off solenoid, loosen (maybe 1/2 a turn) one at a time the nut on the fuel line as it connects to each injector and turn the engine over until there was a good squirt/flow of fuel, then tighten that nut down and proceed to the next nut.

If you can't get a good bleed than there is either a blockage or your pump is bad?

If you can isolate the blockage to one line and you feel its gelled use a hair dryer to warm that line.

All good, except a "hair drier" won't be hot enough outside. A heat gun might.

 

[ruffdog]

I guess if it were me I'd put all the hoses back on, remove the fuel shut off solenoid, loosen (maybe 1/2 a turn) one at a time the nut on the fuel line as it connects to each injector and turn the engine over until there was a good squirt/flow of fuel, then tighten that nut down and proceed to the next nut.

If you can't get a good bleed than there is either a blockage or your pump is bad?

If you can isolate the blockage to one line and you feel its gelled use a hair dryer to warm that line.

The guy will wear his starter out by the time he figures out he has a blockage at the filter etc. He should start at the tank and move forwards to the injector pump instead of hopping around. I know of a pro on-the-road bobcat (kubota engine) mechanic that RARELY cracks injector lines during bleeding on modern engines.