B7500 useless in mud

[Glenn1]

My local Kubota dealer came to the house on Thursday and tested the tractor in mud. They agreed there is a problem when they had problems with out a load behind the tractor. They are trying to get ag tires to fit my rims. As a last resort I will probable purchase ag tires and rims and change them out for winter.

Thanks to everyone for their input. I tried to post several replys on Friday but was not do something correctly.

 

[narcnh]

Glad it worked out for you, Glenn. But, if you are going to be a regualr on TBN it would help a lot if you would complete your profile with at least some basics, like location. It makes it easier for others to help you and reduces the potential for misunderstandings. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Trev]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My local Kubota dealer came to the house on Thursday and tested the tractor in mud. They agreed there is a problem when they had problems with out a load behind the tractor. )</font>

Your dealer agreed there was a problem with the tractor itself, or simply that you needed different tires? Either way, given that it's a new machine, I would hope they'd cut you a really good deal on the tires/wheels. They're brand new, and the dealer sold you this configuration knowing (I presume?) at least to some extent what your intended use of the machine would be.

Tires and wheels aren't cheap.. I'd at least ask them to help you out here a bit.

Good luck, and please keep us posted.

Bob

 

[Rick Jay]

Hi Glenn1,

Glad to see you're back.

If this is a new tractor, I would think your dealer should swap tires and rims without charge...or minimal charge if there is any wear and tear on your R4's and rims.

If you will have to pay for the new tires and rims, then I think I remember something on this board about the tires and rims being available through either the Kubota Parts Dept. or something called "Whole Goods" or some such name. The point being that ordering through Kubota Parts would cost 2 to 3 times more than ordering through the other venue.

Perhaps someone who has actually ordered new tires and rims can fill in the specifics for us.

Good Luck,

~Rick

 

[Rick Jay]

Glenn1,

Please don't be upset at Kelvin for his comments. I once made the same mistake about someone who was new to the board. They made a similar post (that could possibly be interpreted as a "flame") and then didn't post any follow-ups for a while. I really felt bad and apologized. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I bet Kelvin will probably do the same.

I will add to the point about filling out your profile. That's one of the ways some of us use to help offer advice. I think you'll find we're mostly a pretty friendly sort here, and we're glad to have you aboard. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

~Rick

 

[hacker]

I'll tell you what works in deep mud - a backhoe and a bunch of scrap wood. My wooded lot is very wet in places, but it isn't always easy to tell just how bad it is by sight. When I totally dig the wheels of my BX22 down so I'm bottomed out, the backhoe stabilizer bars get me up in a jiffy. Throw some planks under the tires to spread the load and of I go.

In really wet mud with no bottom in reach, it doesn't matter what tires you have. Perhaps the Yanmar is lighter and isn't sinking so much.

 

[Glenn1]

They have offered to install ag tires, but the tires are smaller than the tires installed. I am concerned this would make the tractor easier to roll on hills. I know kioti sells an ag tire that will fit my current rims. I must say that the dealer is making a great effort in finding a solution. I first thought is was only talk, but they have called three or four times to inform me the status.

Thank you for your comments.

 

[Kelvin]

Glenn,

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You should find out more about someonee before you make a statement like this. My profile has nothing to do with asking a simple question. )</font>

I apologize if my statements offended you. In my defense, let me point out that on 1/15/04 I made a post trying to find out a lot of information that you never responded to (and still haven't).

With all other things being equal, a 2wd tractor does not out perform a 4wd tractor in mud. I had asked about the configuration of your 2wd tractor that out-performed the 4wd Kubota. What type tires are on the 2wd versus the 4wd tractor? Are tires filled with fluid? What are the weights of the tractors? Do either of them have FELs? Answers to these type of questions will help us help you.

I would also advise you to work with a Kubota dealer when selecting a different set of tires (this does not imply that you should buy them from a Kubota dealer...). For any 4wd tractor (and SUVs/trucks) the tire sizes of the front and rear wheels are important and must stay within certain design limits to prevent damage to the drive train. You may find a tire that fits your rim, but it may cause damage and void your warranty.

Thanks for responding, and keep us informed on your progress,

Kelvin

 

[narcnh]

Kelvin, I see you have a 72" MMM. How's that work for you? Easy to get on and off? Do you have any issues with scaping? I'm going to get a MMM for my B7800 in the spring and can't decide on the 60" or the 72". Dealer recommends 60" for ease of use, less risk of scalping, etc., but I'd like to get closer to trees and such and the 72" would seem better at that.

 

[Kelvin]

I love the 72" mid-mower.

Scalping: Through the years I accumulated a 60" and a 72" rear mower that I used on my B2150 prior to purchasing the B2910. I have had no scalping problems with either of the 3 mowers. I can't remember the cutting height that I have them set to, but I think that they are set somewhere between 2.5" and 3" (I think 3" is the setting). Lower settings may cause more scalping problems.

R&R: To remove the 72" mower you disconnect the drive shaft and 3 pins, chock the mower deck to prevent movement, then drive over it. Pretty easy. I have recently added a Kubota FEL to the B2910 and have not removed the deck since the FEL was added.

60" versus 72" deck: I have seen a few 60" and 72" decks for sale on Ebay fairly cheap and thought about getting another deck as a spare (they were selling in the $150-$600 range; some supposedly complete with all mounting hardware, some were deck only; some were nearly new and new "old stock" at various dealers such as Carver's in NC). After looking at the specs on the 60" deck I decided that I liked the 72" much better. I can't remember all the specifics, but I do remember that I liked the wheel arrangement on the 72" better; however, if I remember correctly the 60" wheel arrangement allowed the deck to be removed without driving over it.

Rear vs Mid Mower: I know that you didn't ask about this, but there are a lot of discussions on rear-vs-mid mowers. When I need to mow and have one tractor with the 72" mid mower sitting beside the other tractor with the 72" rear mower, I strongly prefer mowing with the mid-mower. Granted, if I had to frequently remove the mower for other tasks, and only had one tractor, I'd probably prefer the rear mower.

Kelvin

 

[narcnh]

Thanks for the detailed reply, Kelvin, you really helped clarify things for me. As you probably guessed, I have been leaning towards the 72" unit. Just needed to hear someone'e real-life experience as a reality check. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif In the spring I'll take a look at the setting I've ben using on my lawn tractor to see how high I've been cutting my grass. Three inches sounds like it would be fine with my lawn/weed collection.

 

[KubotaSteve]

narcnh:
I have the 7800 with a 60" MMM. I haven't gotten to actually mow with it yet, but I went with the 60" MMM for a couple of reasons. First and foremost was my shed door was 72 inches wide, therefore it wouldn't fit in the shed!! Secondly was I had a 7200 with 60" MMM and it worked very nice for me and some of the trails I had in the back of my lot only have enough room for a 60" deck. I really wanted the 72" deck to get more clearance around the tires, but didn't work out. Also with the 60" deck, you can use the FEL in the curl position to pick the tractor off the ground to help in getting the deck out when removing it, but at 350 pounds it is quite a task for one person. Then you have to have someone help you move the deck or use the FEL to pick it up and move it. Driving over the deck sounds a lot easier a more operator friendly. Good luck but make sure to check all of your measurements for clearance before going to the 72" deck. I have also heard that it is difficult to trailer a tractor with a 72" deck if the trailer has fender wells that stick above the bed of the trailer because of clearance.

 

[narcnh]

KS, thanks for the good points to consider. Doors should be OK, since I have double swinging doors on the barn. But, the trailer is a good one. I have a 16 ft. landscape trailer, and I THINK it is 6 1/2 feet rail to rail. But, will have to go out and measure, when it is not below zero. Of course, I don't have any need to move the tractor with the MMM on it right now, but I always worry about that guy Murphy, who's lurking in the background. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[Glenn1]

Sorry for not responding imediately. I do not look at a computer on the weekends. The problem I have is not in deep mud, but mud 1 or 2 inches deep. These tires fill up with mud and become as slick as a babies butt. I have fluid in the rear tires only. I have ordered a set of ag tires from Kubota, they told me I would have problems with the 4wd if I put the wrong size tires on the tractor. Jacobi Sales in Fern Creek, Kentucky charged me $750.00 for new tires and rims. Still a lot of money to correct a problem they said I would not have.

The Yanmar was 2 wd with ag tires and would do a much better job in mud than the Kubota. The dealer had problems at my house without a load behind the tractor.

I sold the Yanmar and finish mower to the first person that looked at the tractor.

Thanks to everone for their comments.

 

[Pks]

Glenn1,

I believe 100% that you fill be very pleased with the performance of your Kubota once the Ag tires are in place.

With my own little B2400, I added Ags to the stable for various landcaping projects and have been real happy with their performance. Often when I'm digging, the tractor feels like a little bulldozer. I loaded the Ags with anti-freeze for ballast. They even do real well in snow. But not quite as well as the R4s with chains.

I agree, it's expensive. But you'll be happy about making the change. Just keep them off of the nicer portions of your lawn. Those tires will chew up the lawn in a hurry.

Happy tractoring. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Kelvin]

KubotaSteve makes a good point about the trailering.

My 16'x6.5' trailer is actually 64" wide between the inside of the wheel wells, which happens to be the exact dimension of the 72" mid-mower with discharge chute removed (which means that it would be a friction fit at best). The guy I bought it from also had a 6.5' wide trailer, but his was 66" wide and he said that he had no problems hauling the tractor with mid-mower installed.

So it appears that if you remove the discharge chute the B7800/B2710/B2910 with 72" mid-mower will fit on SOME 6.5' wide trailers and not on others.

I found a good deal on an old roll-back truck designed for farm equipment that hauls my tractor just fine with plenty of clearance, so I don't worry about the trailer not being wide enough for the tractor with mower installed. One day I may upgrade my 6.5' wide trailer to a 6.5' wide trailer that's really 6.5' wide.

Kelvin

 

[Kelvin]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Just keep them off of the nicer portions of your lawn. Those tires will chew up the lawn in a hurry. )</font>

I had an older B7100 with a set of turf tires and a set of AG tires, and there wasn't a noticable difference in how the tires treated the turf ON DRY GROUND (** See note below).

However, on wet ground, there were differences. At times, merely driving the tractor across the lawn and up a hill, the Ag tires would get better traction than the turf tires would. The result is that the turf tires would spin and tear the turf up more than the Ag tires would. At other times the Ag tires would leave its footprints in the ground if the ground was soft enough; in this case the turf tires were better.

Bottom line: I predict that the turf damage caused by Glenn1's B7500 with Ag tires in 2wd will be similar to his 2wd Yanmar with Ag tires. If that level of turf damage was acceptable then he'll probably keep the Ag tires on most of the time. If that level of damage was excessive, then he may end up doing a lot of swapping the tires.

** NOTE: In this discussion I am talking about turf damage visible to the eye. I realize that the cleats on the Ag tires may cause soil compaction to a greater extent than turf tires will, and this "turf damage" probably won't be visible to the eye.

Kelvin

 

[tomnky]

This exactly why I bought a 7 foot wide trailer : Just in case of hauling wider implements or tractors.

A good point You bring up about the width of trailers. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Glenn1]

I received my new ag tires yesterday. What a difference. The new tires do not look as good as the tractor did with the wider R4 tires but the performs great.

I have someone interested in my R-4 tires and rims. I have five hours on the tires, the rear tires are loaded. What is a reasonable price?

 

[Pks]

Are you certain you want to part with the R4s? I use my R4s in the winter (the chains fit them) and in the summer for mowing the lawn. Any digging or driveway sculpting I do, is performed with the Ags. Both sets are loaded.

With only 5 hours on the tires, I'd consider contacting the dealer and finding out what the purchase price is for the R4s as new. Maybe sell them for 90% of the as new price.