Back Blade

/ Back Blade #2  
There are lots of good ones out there. For you size tractor, I'd stick with a 5 foot rear blade and the most heavy one in specifications. Most all now have tilt, offset and angle. I've got a Rhino (servis-rhino.com) (model 300) brand that's fine, but there are better ones out there, e.g. ones that are a bit heavier and offset more easily if that's important to you. Look at Everything Attachments for nice ones also.... but there are others as well. Do some computer shopping for comparison. It's my opinion that if you go to a 6 ft blade you won't have enough traction to move deep snows or gravel etc.. But now we are talking chains on rear or maybe on the front and maybe loaded tires.....on and on and on........
 
/ Back Blade
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Five feet is good advice. I plan to move snow with it. Dumb question but do you pull the snow driving forward or push snow driving backward with the blade turned around?
 
/ Back Blade #4  
I think the general consensus on TBN is to pull the RB because that's where tractors work best and are the strongest. When you reverse the blade (which I do occasionally) there can be too much stress on the lower links which can break/bend something if one hits a curb or rock etc.

In snow I angle the blade driving forward, but it takes some practice on your particular property to get satisfying results. Of course this also depends on the snow depth, weight etc. and frequency. Having a FEL makes a good combination however.
 
/ Back Blade
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Do you use the blade with its sharp edge or install a tube with a split in it to prevent wear on the driveway? Plowing snow that is.
 
/ Back Blade #6  
I park my tractor in the garage with the blade turned back. That way I can back out and plow at the same time so I don't compact the snow. I do most of my plowing going forward except for a few places where I reverse the blade to push snow out of the way.

I just use the blade edge with no protection. Most of my drive is rock so it's not an issue for me.
 
/ Back Blade #7  
What is your reason or reasons to purchase a back blade? Primarily moving snow or moving gravel?
 
/ Back Blade #8  
Unless the snow is heavy, wet snow and very deep, forward is best but heavy wet snow can pile up in front of the blade to the point where it lifts your tires from the ground. At that point you have to reverse and push or else use the bucket. The draft links are designed for tension, not compression, so pushing in reverse can cause damage if you get too wild. I had a lightweight blade with my first tractor and when I sold it there was almost as much weight in weld material and reinforcements as the basic blade itself.

Some swear to using round on their cutting edge but I don't and have not damaged the a splat part of my drive. However it usually gets so cold by the time I do serious plowing that everything is frozen like a rock and frozen asphalt is a lot more resistant to damage than unfrozen.

In our neck of the woods, after the winter, grader operators tend to drop their blades onto the asphalt highways to sharpen the cutting edges. This is frowned upon by many - the State Highway Department doesn't like seeing the scrape marks on their asphalt and the forestry department doesn't like fighting the fires from the resulting sparks. Last year we had such a fire along the road by our farm and my partner called the County Roads Department instead of 9-1-1. They were out in a flash (their garage is 2 miles away) to put out the fire. Later I asked the supervisor why they were so quick to put out a roadside fire. It was then he admitted that one of his drivers returning to the shop had been sharpening his cutting edge and accidentally set the fire. I couldn't tell by the looks of the highway.
 
/ Back Blade #9  
Someone will probably jump on me for saying this, but your owner's manual (at least mine does) has a table called "Implement Limitations". It lists the maximum recommended sizes and weights for a variety of attachments and implements. For my B2320, it lists a 60" blade, no more than 350#. I have to assume the engineers know something about the tractor's abilities and strengths and weaknesses to have made these recommendations. Probably as to do with the tractive force available, as well as the structural design of the tractor.

A rear blade is a pretty simple device, look for solid pivots, not just a bolt through 2 pieces of metal, and replaceable cutting edges. Landpride is good brand, but there are plenty of good blades out there.
 
/ Back Blade #10  
Our 60" Deluxe Value Scrape Blade would be perfect on your tractor. We call it the value blade based on what you get for your money; quick hitch compatibility(including stand), tilt, angle and offset by pulling pins(not like the cheap sliding method).

All of our blades ship free to a commercial business or supporting freight terminal within 1,000 miles of Newton, NC.
Travis

 
/ Back Blade #11  
Here's a video of Ted playing,....I mean working, in the snow with a similar blade several years ago. We haven't had the opportunity to make a snow video with our new blades, but it sounds like we may in a day or so!!
Travis

 
/ Back Blade #12  
We call it the value blade based on what you get for your money; quick hitch compatibility(including stand)

I noticed (including stand). That is a nice feature to have on a attachment. I prop mine up with a wooden block, which sometimes gets frozen to the ground.......

Bill
 
/ Back Blade #13  
Landpride RBT1560 is my recommendation for you. I have a RB1572 that is use on my B3030. I originally had the RB1560 but it was not wide enough for snow removal when it was angled. My only regret is not getting the RBT model which also tilts. Otherwise, I have been very impressed.
 
/ Back Blade #15  
Get a blade wide enough to cover your wheels when the blade is angled. Mine also offsets to each side about 12", that's handy when you want to get close to something like a curb with the blade angled. And it also has the option of rotating about it's long axis, so if you're doing a surface that rolls from side to side, the blade will stay in contact. But those features cost more money.
 
/ Back Blade #16  
Here's a video of Ted playing,....I mean working, in the snow with a similar blade several years ago. We haven't had the opportunity to make a snow video with our new blades, but it sounds like we may in a day or so!!
Travis

Hi Ted,

What would you recommend for a Kubota L3600? I definitely want the tire tracks to be covered when the blade is angled.

Thanks,
Shawn
 
/ Back Blade #17  
Engine Mike,

I have two back blades they both extend about 6" on each side of the back tires. One foot longer than wheel base distance? Seems about right and when set at an angle still gives me a little overlap. If they were longer I would find them unwieldy especially near buildings or cars. Don't forget about height of blade. the little BX 5' blade is 10" high and sure wish it was taller but overall is very good. The EA 6' blade is 15" high (I think) and pushes or throws back the driveway edges better. It is a quarter mile from the road to the barn so I got a little experience and it is not often that I would want a longer blade.

Good Luck! :thumbsup:
 
/ Back Blade #18  
I've read all of the posts featuring various opinions regarding plowing direction -- backwards/forwards or with a device on the blade to protect the edge from damaging the drive way. Here in the hills of CNY we average around 10-15 feet of snow per year. I have an asphalt driveway and for the last 11 years plowed it with with my Ford 8N, Kubota B7510 and now my B2920. I have a 5 foot blade and 95% of the time I plow in reverse and have never had issues damaging any part of the 3 point hitch or tractor frame. The rear arms are pretty strong and in fact, my Kubota 3pt hitch arms are beafier than my 8N. I also don't put a protective edge on my blade and have never seen any damage to my driveway. I seal it every otherr year and it still looks like new. To add another point that seems to draw controvery on the forum, I have R4 tires on the 2920 and they are just as good as the turf tires I had on my 7510. The 2920 plows like a beast!
 
/ Back Blade #19  
Here's a video of Ted playing,....I mean working, in the snow with a similar blade several years ago. We haven't had the opportunity to make a snow video with our new blades, but it sounds like we may in a day or so!!
Travis

Hi Ted,

What would you recommend for a Kubota L3600? I definitely want the tire tracks to be covered when the blade is angled.

Thanks,
Shawn

It will probably take an 84" to cover your tracks when the blade is fully angled. You could use the 84" 6-Way Value Blade or Xtreme Duty 84" Blade.
Travis
 
/ Back Blade #20  
Some advice and experience knowledge would be great PLEASE.........I have a B7610 and using a 5' rear blade to clear 4" or so at a time from my 1/2 mile drive. Half of it is in gravel, crusher run/slag, and the other is asphalt. From the highway it goes a couple hundred yards at a slight angle up and then up a pretty steep hill with the aspahlt, flat on the gravel for perhaps 300 yards and then downhill to the house/barn still on gravel. No traction problems as I get it going before any ice, and NO, would never try the slopes with ice as the road side drops off on the side with a STEEEEEEP slope down the mountain.

I love my tractor; but it has that durn quarter inching valve, instead of a stop that one can set as your finished height and work from that. So, working around that, I tried to just skim the gravel; but in places, ended up moving a lot of gravel to the side, destroying my crown in places..........
The next storm, I didnt try to skim the gravel but left perhaps 1/4" or so of snow. Still hit some gravel, but not bad enough to be a problem.......So.......the question is.......Skim the gravel and have to come back later to reshape the road crown and drainage?????

Or leave some snow and count on it melting.........which luckily it did.....But.....what if it had gotten colder and turned to ICE???? Scary thought.......WHAT TO DO???????........Thanks guys.........God bless......Dennis
 

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