Backhoe KB2485 valve end-cap popped

[eco88]

While trying to attach the backhoe in the cold, no indoor garage, the left control arm cylinder popped while trying to extended the bucket. Aluminum housing end cap cracked where 2 allen screws attach it to the main body.
It's located at the bottom of the arm responsible for extending the boom.
So, from top down, arm knob, control cylinders housing, piston, cover. The cover broke and leaked all the fluid out. Rest is fine.
I'll attach a couple of pix.
Anyone know the part number for this?

Have 180hrs on the DK4210SE with this hoe. Probably still under warranty less than 2yrs old but I don't have time to wait and mess with warranty and have it sit for weeks at the dealer if this is a cheap part. I hope it is anyways.
Can't believe that the aluminum housing broke like that.
Thanks

 

[Dave Canfield]

Was there perhaps some ice formed inside? I have the same backhoe. I think they are made by Woods.

 

[Dave Canfield]

Perhaps not... they do look similar but not exact.

 

[Dave Canfield]

Does the valve look like this?
This is from the Woods manual.
Perhaps keep the RPMs low for awhile until things warm up?

 

[oldnslo]

Was the lever for that function more difficult to operate than the other functions?
There should be no pressure in that cover unless something is restricting flow to tank. Restriction in tank could cause excess leakage into that cap or worse crack the valve housing.

I would suggest triple checking that the return or tank line is connected correctly and the quick disconnect is fully connected.

 

[Dave Canfield]

From my owners manual. Looks like an Italian company

 

[oldnslo]

Looking at parts breakdown what are items 2 & 20 also labeled E. I think they are the O-ring and backup washer that seals around the spool. If these look extruded or pushed out that would also point towards restriction in the tank line.

 

[Dave Canfield]

I think you are correct.
So there's a hazard in not entirely connecting the rear remote for the return line?
I will have to be careful of that when I connect my backhoe to my tractor. I've been mostly frustrated by the process of getting everything lined up so the backhoe will slide into the brackets on the tractor. Sometimes the backhoe frame aligns, and sometimes it's a pain.

 

[oldnslo]

Unfortunately a partially connected tank line quick disconnect could cause this problem. Not trying to scare you just provide some insight on what might have caused this problem.

 

[eco88]

Thank you Dave for the pics. Looks like it's part #58. I'll check ebay etc for it.
#57 with the washer kit is too short, think that is from the stabilizers.

I'm almost sure that the lines were frozen. The hoe has been sitting outside in 14f to -25f all winter. I had to attach the lines to raise it so I it could be mounted. I ran the tractor for half hour. Then another 15 mins on 1500 rpms. It seemed to have warmed up. The day was mild about 20f. Then I connected the lines of the backhoe.

None of the controls worked at all. I let it sit another 10 mins. Still nothing. Used a propane torch to heat up the cylinders for a while. Then after half hour the stabilizers started to move about half an inch up and down. I kept playing with the controls up and down. And each time the stabilizers would move half an inch more in either direction.
Probably not good for it but I need the hoe bad for a plumbing trench job.
After 20mins of messing with it and watching the hoses jump in agony, the stabilizers kind of worked. The boom was a similar story. Up down up down, kept pushing the controls the same way, trying to lover the boom so the frame would rise to mount it, and eventually heard a hissing sound and then a pop. And hot oil under pressure started spraying up the controls from inside the hosing. And then gushing.
I put in a gallon of oil today, dipstick is still dry.
Anyways, took the cover off and noticed that part was broken and leaking.
So now no damn backhoe.

I panicked and ended up ordering this yesterday:

New Genuine KIOTI 36001-0055 Loader Joystick Valve End Cap for CK and DK Models | eBay

1 CK25 HYDRAULIC CK35M-T750A JOYSTICK VALVE GROUP 36001-0055 ASSY 2 END CAP 1. 2 CK25H HYDRAULIC CK35H-T750A JOYSTICK VALVE GROUP 36001-0055 ASSY 2 END CAP 1. 3 CK27 HYDRAULIC CK35M-T750A JOYSTICK VALVE GROUP 36001-0055 ASSY 2 END CAP 1.

www.ebay.com

Seemed close enough. Half inch longer tough.

I'll look for Dave's part number.
Also the dealer is finally open tomorrow so I'll check with them too.

Moral of the story, tractors and oil hate cold. Can't push them in the cold. Or $hit will crack.

 

[Dave Canfield]

Wow sorry to hear that! But thanks for the play by play. I can see that explanation being quite valuable and saving a few others in the future. It doesn't get that cold very often around here, but it does freeze.
I've been thinking of making a frame for support and alignment of the backhoe when attaching and removing from the tractor. I don't have any flat concrete just dirt. I wish I had a place to work on stuff like what you have there.
The only issue I have had with the backhoe so far is worries about breaking the frame. The dealer came out onc and replaced the dipperstick because of a recall, but it has been a good helpful tool for the most part. View attachment 850541

 

[eco88]

Well to finish off on a good note...

Went to the dealer today. Apparently no parts on this continent.

It was the part number 58 that Dave suggested. $120 up here in chinada. Ebay sells similar in the states for $30ish.

Said 6-8 weeks minimum as it would be coming from Korea apparently. Blows my mind how they can sell these tractors over here by the thousands and not have spare parts available.

Anyways, while speaking with the parts guy, a mechanic walked by. Got talking to him for a bit. Then he dissappears in the back and comes back out holding a part that looks just like my broken one! Turns out he was working on a different kioti tractor and had to replace few parts. This one came from the old unit. And it was exact fit! Different stamp on it but same otherwise. Has rubber rings in the middle of body with a slip on bearing that holds the piston (part #37)

Apparently no gasket otherwise i was told, friction fit only (eventhough I remember seeing bits and pieces of what looked like a skinny o ring once the part blew up) mind you it was dark and I wasnt sure.

$20 later and a promise of a case of beer I ran home with the part happy like pig in $hit!

Put the damn part it, tightened the 2 allen screws, mounted everything back on, turned tractor on and engaged the hydraulics for the backhoe, and wouldn't you know it the damn part started hissing and spraying oil like a fountain. Again!

Turned off everything, took the part off, cleaned everything, reassembled it all again, and again same issue. I must have gone through half a gallon of oil messing with it. I tried a slew of various o rings (there was no grove for an o ring placement on top of the end cap so they kept just sliding out and leaking once oil pressure in the system, I didn't have any of those flat asbestos type, only rubber o rings)

After couple of agonizing hours, busted knuckles, and even more oil, I accidentally noticed the piston that protrudes out and sits in the end cap (part #37), on top had a brass collar that appeared to have a grove in it, and looked almost like there should be an o ring in there. Most of that time that part was inside of the valve body and not visible so I kept missing it I guess.

See picture for better understanding.

Anyways, had to use an extra small oring and stretch it since mine were all too fat, but I managed to slip one on.
Put the bolts in. Started everything up. And it's all holding!
Ended up using the hoe for the rest of the evening digging a trench and ripping up some old concrete and no issues so far.

How this all failed I have no idea. Must have been a domino effect of catastrophic failures. The mechanics were all stumped. Never seen it apparently. But all are telling me most likely as result of outside storage and cold and moisture in the lines.
One of them told me to add couple of cups of diesel conditioner into the oil (kleen-flo) and it would dry the oil and keep water and ice from forming in the future. So I did that too.

Anyway, will be ordering the original o ring once I find the part number and replace it in the future. Feel like my fat cheap Chinese o ring will fail eventually, but a good temporary fix so far, seems to be holding.
Hopefully this helps someone in the same boat especially the northerners like me dealinf with frozen lines.

Dave any way to look up part #37? What's the part number for that? Thank you.

 

[Dave Canfield]

I don't see any part number for the O-ring. However if you can read a calipers, measure the groove width and the inside diameter of the little piston and the inside diameter of the cover. With those dimensions you can look up the proper O-ring size. Something like this O-Ring Calculator.

 

[Dave Canfield]

Anyway, glad to see you get it running!

 

[Dave Canfield]

I just saw a reference to Michigan Iron Works having some online parts, and I got to thinking that perhaps you could call them and ask if they have the o-ring. They have other parts listed.