Bad day,Lost an engine

[powerscol]

By the time they get done withthe machien work and parts, you probably be close. This way you could get the 235 motor and be happy.

 

[MESSMAKER]

By the time they get done withthe machien work and parts, you probably be close. This way you could get the 235 motor and be happy.

That is keeping me up at night. I am thinking rebuild for $4000 and new engine for about $5500.

 

[tman1020]

Man that is a tough one!

 

[truckdiagnostics]

would agree that is a tough one. I don't know what i would do. Lot of it depends on how much you trust the machine shop. Brand new and like what others said being able to increase the horse power.... I would be tempted to go new and rationalize it as a $1,500 horse power increase. Then some how I could convince myself that i got something out of this mess.

 

[DK35vince]

That is keeping me up at night. I am thinking rebuild for $4000 and new engine for about $5500.

Personally I would go with a new long block..
If it ran without oil long enough to do that much damage to the crank, rods and piston. What about the cam and cam bearings, rockers, Etc.
Something I wouldn't want to be worrying about in the future.

 

[tman1020]

Personally I would go with a new long block.. If it ran without oil long enough to do that much damage to the crank, rods and piston. What about the cam and cam bearings, rockers, Etc. Something I wouldn't want to be worrying about in the future.

Good point.

 

[the old grind]

I'd like to think the OP means 'long' (w/head) for 'engine' and only needs his current pump/injectors (.. tin, etc). The further 'rebuild' (what's broke) is from 'reman' (gone through, head and all) the better the 'new engine' option looks.

There's still the extra power sought, and perhaps less time and elbow grease invested by swapping out. (could you part-out anything from the old guy to offset some of the $1.5k?)

Two for one: new engine (to break in & service), $$ less than trading in for bigger tractor when all yours needs is a few more oats.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Can't get final word on if I can use a 235 due to a couple of differences. I am pretty sure that a 230 engine will bolt right up ,but chat is only a 3 hp increase.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

ALSO, if you buy new, you can recoup some of your money back, by selling your old engine to someone who needs what you have...

SR

 

[powerscol]

Can't get final word on if I can use a 235 due to a couple of differences. I am pretty sure that a 230 engine will bolt right up ,but chat is only a 3 hp increase.

What are the differences you concerned about - I can measure mine if needed. Looking at the parts book it appears the bell housing is the same as the trans look alike, but I dont have the details available

 

[SSdoxie]

The 235 engine will fit right in without modifications or other required parts. Part number of the 235 HST is different but that is only because of design of internal directional check valve and high pressure relief valve.

 

[winston1]

My curiosity wants to know if upping the hp could be detrimental to the rest of the drive trains. It would seem to me drive train and engine are matched.

 

[SSdoxie]

Same drivetrain (other than HST in 235) is used on all 3 models. Done for simplicity/commonality of parts for manufacturing.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I have been told that the hydrostat pressure relief is higher in the 235 and is non-adjustable in my machine. If I understand correctly, it would result in more power at the PTO but the same at the drive train. Does this sound correct?
I had understood that drive train was exactly the same in all three models.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I got a breakdown on cost.

break down and reassemble tractor $1000
weld and grind crank and resize rod $500
assemble engine $1000
rings and misc $400

Looking like the gap is widening between new and rebuilt. Of course the rebuild is best case and that never happens.

 

[SSdoxie]

Load or power to the drive train varies depending on resistance to wheel rotation. At full maximum, stall point, the additional HP combined with slightly higher relief means more torque available to the wheels before stalling out.
What you should normally notice if going to the higher HP would be less engine lug on slight inclines and medium loads. Ability to use medium range little more frequently without dropping engine RPM. May even be able to drive down the road in Hi range once in awhile.

 

[the old grind]

I went from 1.3L to 1.7L trading up otherwise 'same' HST NHs (23.5 vs 35 'rated' hp). I can only do more with the extra PTO power vs when using the FEL or lugging implements in any range. HP doesn't seem to matter when spinning all four wheels and I notice fuel consumption (a wee bit more) more than any power difference w/o a gear transmission. Pumps have output limits regardless of input power, so don't look for something that won't be there w/o adjusting relief pressure too.

 

[LD1]

I am concerned with the "weld and grind" crank......specifically the weld part. I'd want to make sure I was dealing with an experienced shop. Why not just grind the crank undersized and get appropriate bearings. Putting heat to the journal of a crank for welding.....thats a last ditch effort to save a expensive or obsolete crank IMO

 

[MESSMAKER]

I am concerned with the "weld and grind" crank......specifically the weld part. I'd want to make sure I was dealing with an experienced shop. Why not just grind the crank undersized and get appropriate bearings. Putting heat to the journal of a crank for welding.....thats a last ditch effort to save a expensive or obsolete crank IMO

Oversize bearings are not available, or at least not so far. It is my understanding that building the crank up frequently warps it a bit as well as changing the temper to some degree. My machinist assured me that the temper would cause no problems and his crank guy would be able to get the crank back in proper shape. He said he has used him for 20+ years. I believe he is located in Cincinnatti Ohio.

 

[LD1]

Oversize bearings are not available, or at least not so far. It is my understanding that building the crank up frequently warps it a bit as well as changing the temper to some degree. My machinist assured me that the temper would cause no problems and his crank guy would be able to get the crank back in proper shape. He said he has used him for 20+ years. I believe he is located in Cincinnatti Ohio.

If you have confidence that the will stand behind their work, then go for it. But if there is even the slightest concern, I'd look seriously at either a new longblock as others suggested, or at least a new crank. Dont really want that looming in the back of your head everytime you operate the tractor, wondering if the rebuild is gonna hold together for the long haul.