Bad news big repair

   / Bad news big repair #102  
I NEVER use starting fluid on a diesel engine! It ruins the rings in short order!
I disagree 100%. Modern starting either has upper cylinder lubricant in it. If that was the case, all the 56 Cats we ran in our big trucks would have been shot the first winter.

Your comment is without merit.
 
   / Bad news big repair #103  
Where do you live in PA? I’m stumped and could use some help. Stop on over!

I do not have the blinking glow plug indicator. There’s no light at all, but that’s an M130x that appears to have a grid heater. My shop manual is not with me, it’s at my shop, or I could post pics of pages.
Near Scranton PA. But I am out of town for work for a couple weeks..

That said this is pretty simple, pull the relay out. set your meter to dc volt. find pin 5, and pin 3 (from the picture above of the relay pg5.jpg), put red side on 3 and black on 5, turn the key or whatever it takes it to cycle the glowplugs. see if the meter reads 12v. .

if it does, then move the red probe to pin 4 and the black probe to chassis ground. see if you have 12v.
 
   / Bad news big repair #104  
I disagree 100%. Modern starting either has upper cylinder lubricant in it. If that was the case, all the 56 Cats we ran in our big trucks would have been shot the first winter.

Your comment is without merit.
Well then I guess my 38 years and 3+ million "legal" miles in a big rig along with 10 years as a heavy diesel mechanic are of no value to this conversation. Thanks for the clarification.
 
   / Bad news big repair #105  
Our JD310 came from the factory with an ether injector system built right onto the engine. It was an optional extra on the original build sheet. They even put a button on the dash to make it convenient to use ether injection.

BTW, the JD system uses standard cans. The original can is still there.
I've never used it. Don't believe in it. But apparently there are those who do..... including the JD engineers.

It doesn't need any help in cold weather. Down to around zero it starts just up just fine - but I try to plug in the block heater when temps are below about 30F.
rScotty
 
   / Bad news big repair #106  
It helps to be smarter than a $4 aerosol can.
I have used ether as a last resort and would again. Sometimes there are limited options and a machine HAS to run. Ether has never caused me any problems. But I certainly have seen serious engine problems that ether has caused.
 
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   / Bad news big repair #107  
When I worked at the airport, we had several pieces of aircraft support equipment that had Detroit diesel engines with built-in push button ether starting assist for cold weather. Not used very often, but did have to replace the screw-on cans a couple times over the years.
 
   / Bad news big repair #108  
How were the GPs tested? (I generally do a simple ohm test and it's been reliable enough for me, but many folks swear that you have to actually apply a load to them to test.)

If you pop off the connection on the GPs what happens when you go to start? It would be nice if you could trigger a code and see that you've done so. Really just looking to see what logic is happening.

I'm assuming that the ground for the GPs is good. Not sure how it would show up if not.

My MKIV VW TDIs rely on temperature sensors to determine if they need to operate. On manual cars they even have GPs for the cooling system: coolant GPs. Not sure of the full circuit logic on these. I DO know that unplugging temperature sensors can help in forcing GPs to operate: it's a default mode. And the coolant temperature sensor has two circuits, one that feeds the ECU and one that feeds the dash gauge; each circuit has the ability to act up- usually it's the circuit to the gauge, causes the gauge to go wacky, but the circuit to the ECU is fine and the engine therefore runs w/o issue: I have a multi-gauge plugged into my ODBII port for providing a bunch of readouts and can see the temps reported to/by the ECU (no panic if the dash gauge shows bad stuff is happening!).

Regarding ECU and operation, something like GPs isn't going to be part of any no-start logic (though, in reality, when not working, they can cause your engine to not start ;)). GPs are mostly emissions related stuff: in my TDIs pretty much just failures of emissions stuff will trigger standard ODBII codes: VW will log other stuff that's proprietary, but GPs ain't in this set.

If it ever came down to it one could install a timer circuit that would put the necessary resistance on the relay [served/controlled by the ECU] that drives the GPs, do this when adding on a manual circuit to do the actual activation of the GPs.

As has been noted, the connections to/from the ECU can be a suspect: many harness connections are less than stellar at keeping out moisture: though possible that only one pin (for GP circuit) could be problematic I'm thinking that this would be kind of rare, a possibility, but less probable. If nothing else it can be considered as a preventative maintenance measure. Clean it all up with DeoxIT.
 
   / Bad news big repair #109  
Our JD310 came from the factory with an ether injector system built right onto the engine. It was an optional extra on the original build sheet. They even put a button on the dash to make it convenient to use ether injection.

BTW, the JD system uses standard cans. The original can is still there.
I've never used it. Don't believe in it. But apparently there are those who do..... including the JD engineers.

It doesn't need any help in cold weather. Down to around zero it starts just up just fine - but I try to plug in the block heater when temps are below about 30F.
rScotty

My Case 580D has the optional cold start ether injection system too-uses a can like yours-I’ve never used mine either.
 
   / Bad news big repair #110  
Somewhere along my learning curve I remember Ether/Gas - OK, Ether/Diesel - no-no.
But I have been successful with WD-40 on diesels. I've one Ford 7.3 that I uses it on annually.
 

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