Bad news big repair

Hay Dude · Dec 12, 2021

ruffdog said:
Does the OP's tractor only run glow plugs or does it have an intake heater too?

edit....thanks Jim ^^ for the above....maybe it has both.

No intake heater. Glow plugs standard. Block heater optional.

pmsmechanic · Dec 12, 2021

These are a completely self contained coolant heater used in the north country to start construction equipment. I have no idea on the cost but I've seen them in local diesel pickups in southern Alberta. People just used to let them run all night but I've noticed that Wabasto now has a programmable controller so you could just set it to start up a few hours before you need to start the tractor.

It's probably overkill for what you need but it is another option that a lot of people don't know about.

Webasto water heaters: Efficient warmth for a variety of vehicles

Versatile parking heaters from Webasto for comfort and warmth in vehicles. Compact, powerful, easy to install. Variants for different vehicle types.

www.webasto-comfort.com

ranger danger · Dec 12, 2021

I had a yanmar that had the intake heater. I could never get it to work right. I gave up and found an alternative. I got a propane torch and just heated up the intake manifold for about 30 seconds. Fired up every time.

WranglerX · Dec 12, 2021

Why is this so complicated.... Simply ground control terminal of GP relay with push button and leave ECU intact... Maybe add isolation diode so manual ground does not feed back into ECU... My SCUT say to hold GP control "ON" for about 10 seconds and then start no automation or timers or ECU.... Yes it could be really the simple....

LouNY · Dec 12, 2021

My first instinct would be to add a PB and a ground for the relay if it does have power on it.

As far as starting without glo plugs or a manifold heater I have seen many engines that would not start.
When plugged in with block or lower radiator hose heaters.
My 8050 will not start without manifold heat when it is sub zero F even with the block heater plugged in and working.
It is a pain sometimes as I will have to cycle the switch several times to get enough manifold heat as it has a controller that
looks at water jacket temperature to control manifold heat time. When it is going to be colder then -10F I will disconnect the sensing
lead for the temp sensor to get full default heating time, I keep telling myself to get a second sensor and mount it were it would read ambient temperature and install a switch to choose which sensor the controller would use.

LittleBill21 · Dec 12, 2021

If you look at the run procedure, it actually has a self test to determine, if its outputting power to the relay control. so yes, it can tell if the computer is trying. (step 6). based on this, I would definitely be testing at the relay. Based on what I am reading the computer CRS does not think there is a problem. this could simply be a wire/relay issue., but the same info applies, tie pin 5 to ground like i originally said, and it will run, tie in a diode if petrified of blowing the computer.

Hay Dude · Dec 12, 2021

LittleBill21 said:
If you look at the run procedure, it actually has a self test to determine, if its outputting power to the relay control. so yes, it can tell if the computer is trying. (step 6). based on this, I would definitely be testing at the relay. Based on what I am reading the computer CRS does not think there is a problem. this could simply be a wire/relay issue., but the same info applies, tie pin 5 to ground like i originally said, and it will run, tie in a diode if petrified of blowing the computer.

Where do you live in PA? I’m stumped and could use some help. Stop on over!

I do not have the blinking glow plug indicator. There’s no light at all, but that’s an M130x that appears to have a grid heater. My shop manual is not with me, it’s at my shop, or I could post pics of pages.