Bar and Chain replacement

/ Bar and Chain replacement #41  
I suspect this saw has been issued in various configurations to meet the different woods encountered in various regions. According to the manufacturer's website 3/8" is what it comes with today. Husqvarna Chainsaw 455 Rancher

While I don'f find the weight difference between a bar of 18" or 20" significant nor the weight of the additional chain. But swinging one around sure makes a diffference. And I'm pretty much a chicken with these things. Because trees fall or get blown down not to mention some pretty doggone big limbs, and I 've lost a half dozen or so to lightening; it seems like I'm having to cut something all the time. My son and son in-law will fire one up and get to it. Me; I stare at it a long time before I cautiously set the saw on the ground, step in to the handle and carefully start it up. Then I carefully cut whatever I'm going to cut from solid ground. And I prefer to keep the tip clear when cutting so the extra length comes in handy. I don't get around well enough anymore to do it any other way.
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #42  
Not to many that was where I use to live the city had storm damage and it was free wood. A 20" bar it a lot better then a 16"bar!

I have to disagree with you on this. A 20" isn't "better" it's just longer. That's like saying a 100 HP tractor is better than a 35 HP tractor. Yes, it's better for some things, but not all things.

They're just different tools for different jobs.
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #43  
I have to disagree with you on this. A 20" isn't "better" it's just longer. That's like saying a 100 HP tractor is better than a 35 HP tractor. Yes, it's better for some things, but not all things.

They're just different tools for different jobs.
It's a personal choice for me it cuts everything I put it to unlike a 16" bar.
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #44  
I suspect this saw has been issued in various configurations to meet the different woods encountered in various regions. According to the manufacturer's website 3/8" is what it comes with today. Husqvarna Chainsaw 455 Rancher

While I don't find the weight difference between a bar of 18" or 20" significant nor the weight of the additional chain. But swinging one around sure makes a difference. And I'm pretty much a chicken with these things. Because trees fall or get blown down not to mention some pretty doggone big limbs, and I 've lost a half dozen or so to lightening; it seems like I'm having to cut something all the time. My son and son in-law will fire one up and get to it. Me; I stare at it a long time before I cautiously set the saw on the ground, step in to the handle and carefully start it up. Then I carefully cut whatever I'm going to cut from solid ground. And I prefer to keep the tip clear when cutting so the extra length comes in handy. I don't get around well enough anymore to do it any other way.


that's the saw that I have and also my brother. I bought mine and he was so impressed, he bought one. Both came with 18 inch bars. We've each put hundreds and hundreds of hours on them and they work flawlessly.
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement
  • Thread Starter
#45  
I love the saw. I often use it then expect to use it soon so I leave with gas in it. Next thing you know I haven't used it in 6 or more months but it starts right up. I've never had a small engine take that kind of abuse and not care.
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #46  
"...different tools for different jobs...." I couldn't agree more. I have a 461 and a 260 Stihl and I would be without either one. Of course, I'm the guy that has 3 trimmers!

Will
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #47  
Most of my wood can't be cut in one pass with a 16" bar. I run 20" bars and I have a 28" that sees a far bit of use.
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #48  
I wouldn't give a 16" bar garage space makes my back hurt just thinking about it it it it, makes me stutter too. Most of my trees are 6-12'' so in my case size dont matter, it's the reach, that extra 2'' makes all the difference in my world.
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #49  
My goto was my 346 then 550 with a 16" bar, but as of late my 543xp with a 13" is really getting more time put on it. I hate long bars, especially if I don't need it. I have a 20, 28, and 36 if needed - but I rarely need them. Bent over is bent over, short bars with fast chains and modified saws, spend less time bent over :D
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement
  • Thread Starter
#50  
Thanks for all the great responses. I never thought is learn so much about bars.

Would going from 18 to 16 make any noticeable change in weight or balance?
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #51  
I would notice a difference personally on my saws, but if you don't use a saw that much you are not likely to notice.
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #52  
Agreed. 20" is really pushing a 50cc saw. Be kind to your saw and it will last longer.

Oregon is good stuff. You won't go wrong there.

I have been committing heresy myself, the last few years. I run Stihl chain on my saws, including the orange ones. Holds the edge better than lesser chains.

I'm not a fan boy who thinks Stihl is the ONLY good brand. I just took the advice of a lot of pros, including die-hard Husky men, and I'm finding it's working out well for me.
If you keep your saw tuned and your chain sharp and well lubed a 50cc saw should be able to run 20".

I don't have a 50cc but I run a 16" lo-pro non-safety on my Stihl 021 and a 20" 3/8 semi-chisel to 28" 3/8 on my JD 62 (62 CC with an opened up muffler).
With the 28" 3/8 milling/ripping chain I CSM'd about half a 20" DBH tree, but I was going slow and sharpening about every 8 feet.

94Bullitt shows
the difference in speed between full and semi.

Interesting, never thought about going smaller.

Are full chisel chains the ones with the big warnings about kickback? Should I be concerned about that?

What's the gain in going to 3/8"?

Kickback is like life. You have to be careful where you stick your nose. If you have not experienced it you should carefully (with full PPE and someone standing by to mop up the blood) stick your bar nose into a tree and experience some kickback. You should always be concerned about kickback. Example here

Thanks for all the great responses. I never thought is learn so much about bars.

Would going from 18 to 16 make any noticeable change in weight or balance?
As far as bars go I prefer small bars with good music and a good selection of dark beers.

The 16" might make a difference in balance to you. With me my CS62 is well balanced with a 20" bar and falls on it's nose with the 28". But my 660's do well with 28" and fall on their noses with 36" and up.
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #53  
12" for micro saws 40cc under, 16" for small saws 50cc , 20" med saws 70cc etc for firewood cutting etc.
 
/ Bar and Chain replacement #54  
I think multiple bars to cover all your needs and whatever heads are required to drive them is the best solution. I have 4 bars (16", 20", 28" and 37") and two heads (35cc & 80cc) to drive them. Obviously, the 3 larger bars are for the 80cc. Using a bar that is too long for the job can make you tired faster and decrease your control. However, when cutting stuff that is on the ground, I find the 28" saw to be perfect even if it's only little 4" - 10" stuff. With the 28" bar, I don't need to bend over. Much less tiring.

If you have a 50cc head. Might be nice to get shortest bar you can get for it (14" to 16") as well as the longest that is reasonable (18"-20"?). That will give you a nice light quick handling package with the smaller bar and something for those larger trees with the bigger bar.

But if I had a 50 cc saw. I'd put a 16" on it and leave it on permanently. Anything bigger than 16" and I want something in the 70-80cc range. Not because it's needed, just because it decreases your cutting time dramatically and there's always something else to do.
 

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