oldpilgrim
Elite Member
I've worn out 2bars on my Husqvarna saw. I replaced the first with an Oregon and then the Oregon with a TSC house brand. I found the TSC brand to be as good or possibly better than the more expensive Oregon.
Bar and Chain replacement
- Thread starter prichard
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Turbys_1700
Elite Member
Back in the day my dad sold Homelite chain saws at the dealership where they sold Allis Chalmers. The big farm saw at that time was the old XL 12 chainsaw. Those old torque saws always had a 3/8 chain and full chisel. At that time they were in competition with the McCullough 10-10. Those old buggers would vibrate the fillings out of your teeth but would pull 3/8 full chisel all day. To answer your question 3/8 takes more power to pull. Those old saws had a lot of torque and could pull it. Most smaller saws are fitted with .325.
motownbrowne
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3/8 pitch (regular 3/8 that is, not 3/8 low profile) makes a wider kerf. For saws with more displacement, it's a better choice; it's easier to sharpen and it stays sharp a little longer (assuming other factors, namely cutter shape and hardness are the same). Since it takes a wider kerf, though it takes more power for each cut. It can be run on 50cc saws, but generally most people don't run 3/8" until you get to 60ccs.
.325 has benefits too, namely on small saws each cut will be a little faster because it's less work to make a smaller kerf. It may also be a little smoother in the cut and less grabby when limbing because it has more cutters. There are other variables at play, though.
You should be concerned about kickback, yes. Chainsaws are dangerous, but you probably already know that. All chains have a potential to kick back. Reduced kickback chains have a different depth gauge design. Depth gauges aka rakers determine how much bite the cutter takes with each pass. On reduced kickback chains, there I'd usually a second part alongside the depth gauge that prevents the cutter from cutting while it goes around the tip of the bar. For me, there might be a slight speed advantage to regular aka professional chain, but the main advantage is when sharpening. When you have to take the depth gauges down, which I do about every three filings, it's much easier on regular chain because there's simply less material to mess with.
Regarding full chisel vs semi chisel, full chisel cuts faster and is maybe a little smoother in the cut. Semi chisel holds up a little better in dirtier wood. Semi chisel is also easier to file by hand. For the majority of my cutting needs I prefer semi chisel, non-safety chain. As you can see, though, there's lots of options.
What's the gain in going to 3/8"? <<<<<<<Nothing on my Husqvarna 550xp with 18" bar, 325 pitch is faster, but 3/8 is faster on bigger saws like my Jonsered 2171.
Anyone worried about chainsaw chain kick-back, I'd suggest not taking the raker's down to much or stop cutting on the tip of the bar.
Semi-chisel chain is a little better on dirty wood, that's why I dont cut much during spring mud season. I stay with full chisel chain, much faster cutting the other ten months.
Anyone worried about chainsaw chain kick-back, I'd suggest not taking the raker's down to much or stop cutting on the tip of the bar.
Semi-chisel chain is a little better on dirty wood, that's why I dont cut much during spring mud season. I stay with full chisel chain, much faster cutting the other ten months.
My 550 ne346 545 all stock were way faster in the hardwood cuts with 16" 3/8 over the 325 they came with. Have tested folks saws in the shop with them there and they leave with 3/8 on their 550's 346's 545's too. These saws have the balls to pull it better and faster in cuts.
450 = 325 IMO still
I have seen a case where the saw dont have the balls like a like new 490 I had and kept 325 on it. But the rest of my 490 and 500 and 5000 saws wore 3/8.
450 = 325 IMO still
I have seen a case where the saw dont have the balls like a like new 490 I had and kept 325 on it. But the rest of my 490 and 500 and 5000 saws wore 3/8.
jack707
Veteran Member
When I had a 16th a on my saw I had to do double work to cut a big wide tree! Cut one side then walk around and cut the other side. I think the 20" bar is good enough at lest it go thru on the first time no need to go back.
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
How many "big wide tree's" do you cut each time out??
Sure, if you cut them all the time, a longer bar is needed, but most of use spend more time cutting tree's under 16" than over...
SR
motownbrowne
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And even trees well over 16" have lots of small limbs where a 16" is perfect.
Really, we've just hit in the best solution again: more than one saw. A 40cc and 60cc or 50cc and 70cc setup works pretty good. I pretty much cut with my 40cc until the wood gets over 10" then the 60cc, both of which have 16" bars. After the wood gets over 18", then the 20" bar on the 77cc saw comes out.
jack707
Veteran Member
Not to many that was where I use to live the city had storm damage and it was free wood. A 20" bar it a lot better then a 16"bar!
