J_J
Super Star Member
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- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
At 8 GPM's, and 3000 psi, it will take 16 HP to operate the motor.
Belt for 48" deck
- Thread starter ldabe
- Start date
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J_J
Super Star Member
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- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
Did anyone receive any operating instructions for operating the attachments that they purchased?
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
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- 66,099
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
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- 18,973
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
Hahahahahaaaahahahahaaa!!!!
That's funny, J_J!
That's what I thought. I am going to laugh along with you.
Harty har hee hee ho ho.
SnowRidge
Elite Member
Hahahahahaaaahahahahaaa!!!!
That's funny, J_J!
Beat me to it, Moss.
The only scrap of paper you get is a receipt.
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
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- 18,973
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
Sir, do you have any instructions for this machine? Son. this here machine of yo-urn is built with human hand, and it don't break, and if in it does, send us lots of money and we will ship it out, if you meet the min shipping requirements. You wanna know how things work , just ask your buds on TBN.
ToolcatWonka5610
Gold Member
What? No attachment manual?! What kind of company is Power-Trac?!
A good one.
...
Shut up.
A good one.
...
Shut up.
ToolcatWonka5610
Gold Member
Yeah they do. 72" For the 1445 and 1845, 96"
for the 1460 and 1850.A Flail mower would be good for us since it doesn't hit and thrown debris.
We'd love to get one with our Power-Trac or at least one for own John Deere 5310.
A couple weeks ago I put out $250 to PT for the center and outside spindle.
This was for the complete unit.
After install, I mowed and everything went good. Taking another members suggestion, before and after mowing I do a "wobble" check, by grasping the blade to see if any side to side movement.
The second time out with the "New" parts, I thought I heard a strange (not the usual) sound. After about 10 minutes of mowing, removed the cover (belt, pulleys) turned the PTO back on for approx. 5 seconds, and notice the outside spindle pulley, now and then, wobble about an 1/8 inch out of line. Also, the "wobble test" confirmed movement also.
Took spindle apart to check bearings...viola...junk - trash - broken!
Called PT, Terry said he would send a whole new unit to me right away, and for me to send the old back to PT.
Will update when I get the new, install, and test.
This was for the complete unit.
After install, I mowed and everything went good. Taking another members suggestion, before and after mowing I do a "wobble" check, by grasping the blade to see if any side to side movement.
The second time out with the "New" parts, I thought I heard a strange (not the usual) sound. After about 10 minutes of mowing, removed the cover (belt, pulleys) turned the PTO back on for approx. 5 seconds, and notice the outside spindle pulley, now and then, wobble about an 1/8 inch out of line. Also, the "wobble test" confirmed movement also.
Took spindle apart to check bearings...viola...junk - trash - broken!
Called PT, Terry said he would send a whole new unit to me right away, and for me to send the old back to PT.
Will update when I get the new, install, and test.
Attachments
SnowRidge
Elite Member
Did you grease those bearings? If you over grease them, there is the potential to blow out the seal(s). Since discovering they were sealed bearings (and finding a blown seal in a bad bearing), I changed my procedures.
I now grease only lightly by hand, stopping if it feels like the cavity might be full. I never use my air operated grease gun on the spindles. The grease serves no lubrication purpose, but probably does help heat transfer and may help prevent corrosion inside the spindle housing.
SnowRidge,
Yes.
2 to 3 pumps with a manual grease gun.
To put the unit on, you have to remove the zerk fitting. Though I did not use a light to look into the hole of the fitting, it did not look like it had much grease if any in there.
That is why I put the 2 to 3 pumps with the manual gun.
Yes.
2 to 3 pumps with a manual grease gun.
To put the unit on, you have to remove the zerk fitting. Though I did not use a light to look into the hole of the fitting, it did not look like it had much grease if any in there.
That is why I put the 2 to 3 pumps with the manual gun.
Last edited:
SnowRidge
Elite Member
That wouldn't hurt it. I wondered if you might have pumped it full.
They come without any grease in them, AFAIK (sorry, JJ
). Obviously a bad bearing from the git go, or bad machining of the housing/spindle by the supplier.
J_J
Super Star Member
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Idabe.
Were those bearings sealed bearings to begin with, or just plain? As you were installing the bearings, did you spin them to see if they had grease in them. If they are full of grease, they don't spin very well, while a bearing with no grease will spin quite freely. Some bearings come with 2 grease seals and others with one. The open side goes to the inside of the spindle. If you have true sealed bearings, there is no reason to put grease in the spindle. except to keep the shaft and inside walls from rusting, and maybe keeping water out. Over greasing is also a big problem. A lot of people squirt grease in there ever so many hours. When that spindle is full and more grease is put in, the excess is pushed out the ends , top or bottom.
Sometimes what you think is bad bearings, is, the round spindle is not round anymore. The bearing and unbalanced blade will beat or wear it out of round. You can sometimes fix or use the spindle by drilling a hole and installing a set screw to keep the bearing from wobbling. My complete spindle cost around $85. I used to keep spare spindles in the truck, one short and one long, so I could change it out in the field. I would rebuild the other spindle later.
Were those bearings sealed bearings to begin with, or just plain? As you were installing the bearings, did you spin them to see if they had grease in them. If they are full of grease, they don't spin very well, while a bearing with no grease will spin quite freely. Some bearings come with 2 grease seals and others with one. The open side goes to the inside of the spindle. If you have true sealed bearings, there is no reason to put grease in the spindle. except to keep the shaft and inside walls from rusting, and maybe keeping water out. Over greasing is also a big problem. A lot of people squirt grease in there ever so many hours. When that spindle is full and more grease is put in, the excess is pushed out the ends , top or bottom.
Sometimes what you think is bad bearings, is, the round spindle is not round anymore. The bearing and unbalanced blade will beat or wear it out of round. You can sometimes fix or use the spindle by drilling a hole and installing a set screw to keep the bearing from wobbling. My complete spindle cost around $85. I used to keep spare spindles in the truck, one short and one long, so I could change it out in the field. I would rebuild the other spindle later.
J_J
Super Star Member
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Originally Posted by J_J
My complete spindle cost around $85.
I should state the spindle I am referring to is from my Dixie Chopper mower deck , and is very similar to the PT spindle assemble
My complete spindle cost around $85.
I should state the spindle I am referring to is from my Dixie Chopper mower deck , and is very similar to the PT spindle assemble
JJ, yes, they were sealed bearings, but I did not know that (though I suspected it from changing a bearing last year on the "old type" unit) until I took the spindle unit assembly apart. The bottom bearing still had one side with the seal in place.
When I received the assembly from PT, it was already assembled as one unit. All I had to do to bolt it to the mower deck was take off the zerk fitting, to be able to seat the unit into the mower deck hole.
Also, I only put 2-3 pumps from a manual grease gun.
Tim, yes, I bought it from PT. But, the $250 is for "two", the (1) center assembly and the (1) outside assembly unit. The center was approx. $150, and the outside was approx. $90 plus tax.
When I received the assembly from PT, it was already assembled as one unit. All I had to do to bolt it to the mower deck was take off the zerk fitting, to be able to seat the unit into the mower deck hole.
Also, I only put 2-3 pumps from a manual grease gun.
Tim, yes, I bought it from PT. But, the $250 is for "two", the (1) center assembly and the (1) outside assembly unit. The center was approx. $150, and the outside was approx. $90 plus tax.
SnowRidge
Elite Member
Several owners have looked for another source. No luck so far, but if you catch them early, it's just a bearing change. Doing the "wobble test" works. I caught one as it was about to go out.
J_J
Super Star Member
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There is something that I am not seeing. That is the sleeve that goes over the spindle inbetween the bearings to keep them from being coompressed to much, and if not there, then I kow why the unit failed. If not there, and you tighten down the nets and bolt to much , you can expect failure.
SnowRidge
Elite Member
No sleeve is needed. The design of the bearing housing and the spindle locates the bearings properly.
coolconnection
Gold Member
Now let me get this straight. We have sealed bearings in our mower decks yet they still have zerk fittings in them. They told me I need to grease my deck every 8 or 9 hours when I was in Tazewell. I greased my fittings before the season started, now I am getting worried I may have greased them to much. So really if they're sealed we should not have to grease them at all. This is goofy on Power-tracs part. So what should we do? When do you know when to grease'em? Hmmmm.
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