Bevelling Steel Pieces for Welding

[Sodo]

I have a millwaukee metal cutting circular saw that can be set to produce bevel cuts. I havent used it enough to comment on how long a blade will last, they are about 40-50 dollars for the millwaukee blades. It will make the cuts much faster than a band saw. It cuts 1/4 inch just about as fast as cutting plywood, although it will cut the 1/2, you may find it wears the blade out faster. I found mine on ebay for 270 dollars with free shipping, that was too good to pass up. This is assuming you havent cut the pieces yet.

I have one of those, except mine (Porter Cable) can't do bevel cuts. I used it to plunge cut into a 3/16" steel sheet tho, quite surprised how well it worked, as you say like cutting plywood.

 

[CalG]

I would.

Of course you show through cuts, not bevelling prep cuts. Our results might be a bit different. ;-)

 

[Shield Arc]

Of course you show through cuts, not bevelling prep cuts.

I don't think we're on the same page. This is a very common joint prep for welding.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Of course you show through cuts, not bevelling prep cuts. Our results might be a bit different. ;-)

I don't think we're on the same page. This is a very common joint prep for welding.

Thanks for all the good responses. They all have their place one way or another. Most of the pieces I need to do are 2 X 2 X 1/4 square tube and 2-6 inch X 1/2 flat bar; for a 3P hitch frame for a big vertical/horizontal log splitter. 4" cylinder with 24" stroke.

I am going to choose the band saw routine. I have all the pieces square cut already using the band saw, Just set the pieces at a 30 degree angle and turn it on, go do something else while it is cutting. By square cutting first I get a good land at the bottom. I hate having all the grinding dust down my shirt and flying all over.

Shield Arc, I lost your address. I have always been a hack welder, top pass is not like auto welders; but, I never had a problem passing certification back in the old days. That is why I have a good sharp 12" file and a grinder. I am getting ready for a vacation till the 30th. I will plan to come visit early July. This project will set till I get back.

I might try a cut off blade in an old miter box saw if I can find a way to keep the grinding dust out of the motor. Problem with the 14" chop saw (which I have) is they are not set up for miter cuts. Need to look at making a solution to that problem. It cuts real fast and throws the grindings away from the operator.

Ron

This page. If the pieces are already cut to length the blade will deflect during the bevel cut.

 

[rswyan]

I would.

Ditto ...

 

[Fawken]

If it was a bunch of plate steel I'd use a plasma and straight edge.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Haven't seen these mentioned. The 12" Makita carbide metal saw will bevel up to 4". The cut takes about 2 seconds. Other brands have 14" blades that I believe can do 6" material. Unlike the abrasive saws, no deflection.

 

[Shield Arc]

Here you go Ron! :laughing:
Plate Beveler mill

 

[Sodo]

Pat I've done that with the cold cut saw, it's very fast, accurate, and a nice bevel. Sometimes seems too nice to cover with weld.

One thing I don't like about the way you've clamped the items. You have to keep in mind that due to the angle, the saw is "drawing" the item into the cut. If it rattles loose or shifts at all, the saw will grab it and "WHANG NG NG NG ! ! ! ! " I've had it happen and it's exciting to say the least. The word "wise" may be out of place here, but it's "wise" to go much slower than normal when doing this. So instead of your cut taking 2 seconds, maybe 4 or 5 seconds.

Beveling like that is a risky deal from the get go - but you can reduce the risk more by going the OTHER way - where you're clamping the 2" thickness of the sq tube. Where the clamp has more purchase on the piece. And a little slower too.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Well all that you say is true, except that in decades of metal and woodwork with chop and miter saws I never had the whang dang happen to me.

In this case the vise has another piece of metal the same size, on the left, that allows a good grip on the cut piece. In other more difficult cases I use jaw inserts made of oak or maple.

Ordinarily I would do as you say and clamp the long piece, but the discussion was of welding 60 degree bevels so had to clamp the other way. Now I have also used two matching 15 degree maple blocks in the vise to hold work when the vice is set at 45 degrees, that gives a 60 degree bevel the long way. But I couldn't find the last set I made.

On speed, for that teeny little two inch bevel, I allow a second or so to let the blade find its cut then push through as fast as the saw will handle. That keeps the blade cool.

Anyway I agree completely with your best practices observations, as adjusted in the notes above.:thumbsup::thumbsup: