I know two guys that had heart attacks...one at 39, one at 37 and didnt know they had a family history of heart issues. Its never too early to get a check.Probably a Canada thing, mostly covered, I'm going to have to get a checkup soon, the wife is really getting on me, apparently being 37 isn't as resilient as being 25 like I think I am... Was getting some cheap firewood (mill ends, $60 for a 4x4x4 pallet) and the kid loading the trailer had the audacity of asking if I had any kids that played for the local highschool, of course I answered I'm not that old which my wife corrected me for later... calendars are mean
Congrats, being above average is always better...
Big Barn’s Retirement Farm Shop
- Thread starter Big Barn
- Start date
- Views: 816345
I’m happy your retired and taking the time to show us your projects and ideas.
ThanksThreepoint
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2014
- Messages
- 2,234
- Location
- No. VA
- Tractor
- Kubota B2150HST w/ LA350 loader, Kubota GF1800 HST, Kioti CK3510SE HST w/ KL4030 loader, Kioti NX4510HST/cab w/ KL6010 loader
Re: Big Barn痴 Retirement Farm Shop
This, indeed!
Terry, we're all invested in your health now, so stay well!
I遏･ happy your retired and taking the time to show us your projects and ideas.
This, indeed!
Terry, we're all invested in your health now, so stay well!
OP
Big Barn
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2013
- Messages
- 6,874
- Location
- Victoria, B C
- Tractor
- More than 40 over the years. Ten at any one time. Mostly Ford and New Holland
Thank you for the well wishes, fellows. I truly appreciate that!
Fact of the matter is I’m in great health at the moment. I take nothing for granted. I’m a true believer in if you don’t have your health you have nothing.
I do my best to stay active physically and mentally as well as trying to eat well. I don’t necessarily desire to live a long life as much as a good one. Quality over quantity. I might even include some health related topics just to mess the thread up a little more
Perhaps others may like to share suggestions or insight(s).
Fact of the matter is I’m in great health at the moment. I take nothing for granted. I’m a true believer in if you don’t have your health you have nothing.
I do my best to stay active physically and mentally as well as trying to eat well. I don’t necessarily desire to live a long life as much as a good one. Quality over quantity. I might even include some health related topics just to mess the thread up a little more
Perhaps others may like to share suggestions or insight(s).
goeduck
Super Member
You must be a swinger :laughing:
Re: Big Barn痴 Retirement Farm Shop
:applause: Although my monitor and I could have done without that mental image. Now I need more coffee.
:applause: Although my monitor and I could have done without that mental image. Now I need more coffee.
BigBlue1
Veteran Member
Re: Big Barn痴 Retirement Farm Shop
This is a great idea. I started trying to build one for myself yesterday. I ran into an issue when I realized that my bandsaw (Grizzly G0561 6x12") pivots the opposite way from yours for angle cuts. What that means is the non-fixed vise jaw on mine pivots the other way and won't work quite right (mine can move clockwise from straight position, yours can move counter-clockwise too). I think the short answer to a resolution is that I need to buy a moveable/pivoting vise jaw from another bandsaw that pivots the opposite way. Anyone know of a similarly sized/configured bandsaw that has a jaw that can pivot counter-clockwise that I can look to for parts?
Thanks,
Rob
This is a great idea. I started trying to build one for myself yesterday. I ran into an issue when I realized that my bandsaw (Grizzly G0561 6x12") pivots the opposite way from yours for angle cuts. What that means is the non-fixed vise jaw on mine pivots the other way and won't work quite right (mine can move clockwise from straight position, yours can move counter-clockwise too). I think the short answer to a resolution is that I need to buy a moveable/pivoting vise jaw from another bandsaw that pivots the opposite way. Anyone know of a similarly sized/configured bandsaw that has a jaw that can pivot counter-clockwise that I can look to for parts?
Thanks,
Rob
OP
Big Barn
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2013
- Messages
- 6,874
- Location
- Victoria, B C
- Tractor
- More than 40 over the years. Ten at any one time. Mostly Ford and New Holland
Rob. It’s strange that Grizzly made the vise turn clockwise. I can envision counter clockwise being more user friendly in most cases depending on the length of material on either side of the cut.
That said why not make the jig backwards from mine to accommodate your clockwise turning vise jaw. Your work piece would continue being orientated in the OEM designed direction for angled cuts.
That said why not make the jig backwards from mine to accommodate your clockwise turning vise jaw. Your work piece would continue being orientated in the OEM designed direction for angled cuts.
BukitCase
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2012
- Messages
- 2,753
- Location
- Albany OR
- Tractor
- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
Re: Big Barn痴 Retirement Farm Shop
Building the 45* jig backwards may not be necessary - I have 2 of the HF 4x6 saws (one from 'way back when HF had ONE store in Camarillo Ca.) and a Jet 8x12 - built 45* inserts for both. Main thing I found was that without welding a tab or two on the jig, it tends to tilt when the vise is tightened - I had to "cut and try" to get that to stop.
And yeah, I'm looking at one of the pics of that "wrong turn" Grizzly...
Since the main vise jaw should be at "0" to use the adapter anyway, from the pics it looks like you could make the adapter pretty much the same as mine and Terry's - both of mine need a "stop" on the "pointy" end to keep the adapter from "squirting out" of the vise jaws - that stop just comes up against the end of the vise jaw (closest to the blade)
The other tab that was necessary on both of mine is on the OPPOSITE end of the main jaw - it protrudes about 1/2" UNDER the movable end of the jaw, to prevent lift on that end of the adapter. The Grizz has plenty of stick-out on that end to do the same.
Things that will help/improve ANY saw - as soon as it's set up, blade on, and makes straight cuts (not necessarily @ 90*, but not curved or wavy) I use either a mid-sized machinist square (or a digital protractor) and find out what angle the factory "guess" REALLY is - then I cut small (maybe 1/4" thick) pieces of at least 2" square tube til the remaining piece of tube is square enough NOT to see light between the machinist square and the cut -
I make sure when doing this that the jaw's PIVOT bolt has the jaw pushed back (toward the motor end) against its clearance (slop) and tightened, and set at the factory "0" mark.
First I make sure the (newish) blade cuts square VERTICALLY - blade guide bearings should be gapped just enough to BARELY slide the blade between them, then adjust their angle so the vertical cuts are true at BOTH ENDS of the cut - 3" or 4" tube will show this up better than smaller. And yes, it IS possible for the blade ENTRY and EXIT sides of the cut to be DIFFERENT. This part of setting up a saw can be the most frustrating (other than trying to align a saw with a used blade )
Aligning the vise jaw would be next; (getting the cut straight (90* when looking DOWN at the piece in the vise) is easier, and if you're as picky about this as I am (can ya tell??!? :laughing: ) it will usually require abandoning the idea that the factory "0" is really gonna give you a true 90* cut -
My method for that (which enables me to "RTZ" (ReturnToZero) WITHOUT having to start all over - once the main jaw is giving ACTUAL square cuts with its PIVOT pushed back toward the motor and tightened, I re-check to see if the factory zero marks still line up - if so, great; if not, I'll drag a razor blade along the jaw and scribe a fine line in the bed at TRUE zero - then if I need to cut an odd angle, getting back to true zero is as simple as loosening both jaw bolts, pushing the pivot end of the jaw back toward the motor, snugging that bolt, then putting the other end of the jaw so that scribe line is barely visible, and tightening both bolts the rest of the way.
I would post the sketches I made for me and Terry here, but I still haven't recovered from a recent computer crash that SOME fool :ashamed: hadn't been doing regular backups...
If all this attention to detail isn't your thing, just believe the factory settings - most of us should know that there's more to KEEPING a project true/square/etc than just having accurately cut pieces to begin with. If that's you, it's perfectly fine to just use the factory markings, make your cuts, THEN use a true square and a ton of clamps and braces and "hopscotch" your welds, leaving everything clamped (HARD) til it cools... Steve
Building the 45* jig backwards may not be necessary - I have 2 of the HF 4x6 saws (one from 'way back when HF had ONE store in Camarillo Ca.) and a Jet 8x12 - built 45* inserts for both. Main thing I found was that without welding a tab or two on the jig, it tends to tilt when the vise is tightened - I had to "cut and try" to get that to stop.
And yeah, I'm looking at one of the pics of that "wrong turn" Grizzly...
Since the main vise jaw should be at "0" to use the adapter anyway, from the pics it looks like you could make the adapter pretty much the same as mine and Terry's - both of mine need a "stop" on the "pointy" end to keep the adapter from "squirting out" of the vise jaws - that stop just comes up against the end of the vise jaw (closest to the blade)
The other tab that was necessary on both of mine is on the OPPOSITE end of the main jaw - it protrudes about 1/2" UNDER the movable end of the jaw, to prevent lift on that end of the adapter. The Grizz has plenty of stick-out on that end to do the same.
Things that will help/improve ANY saw - as soon as it's set up, blade on, and makes straight cuts (not necessarily @ 90*, but not curved or wavy) I use either a mid-sized machinist square (or a digital protractor) and find out what angle the factory "guess" REALLY is - then I cut small (maybe 1/4" thick) pieces of at least 2" square tube til the remaining piece of tube is square enough NOT to see light between the machinist square and the cut -
I make sure when doing this that the jaw's PIVOT bolt has the jaw pushed back (toward the motor end) against its clearance (slop) and tightened, and set at the factory "0" mark.
First I make sure the (newish) blade cuts square VERTICALLY - blade guide bearings should be gapped just enough to BARELY slide the blade between them, then adjust their angle so the vertical cuts are true at BOTH ENDS of the cut - 3" or 4" tube will show this up better than smaller. And yes, it IS possible for the blade ENTRY and EXIT sides of the cut to be DIFFERENT. This part of setting up a saw can be the most frustrating (other than trying to align a saw with a used blade
)Aligning the vise jaw would be next; (getting the cut straight (90* when looking DOWN at the piece in the vise) is easier, and if you're as picky about this as I am (can ya tell??!? :laughing: ) it will usually require abandoning the idea that the factory "0" is really gonna give you a true 90* cut -
My method for that (which enables me to "RTZ" (ReturnToZero) WITHOUT having to start all over - once the main jaw is giving ACTUAL square cuts with its PIVOT pushed back toward the motor and tightened, I re-check to see if the factory zero marks still line up - if so, great; if not, I'll drag a razor blade along the jaw and scribe a fine line in the bed at TRUE zero - then if I need to cut an odd angle, getting back to true zero is as simple as loosening both jaw bolts, pushing the pivot end of the jaw back toward the motor, snugging that bolt, then putting the other end of the jaw so that scribe line is barely visible, and tightening both bolts the rest of the way.
I would post the sketches I made for me and Terry here, but I still haven't recovered from a recent computer crash that SOME fool :ashamed: hadn't been doing regular backups...
If all this attention to detail isn't your thing, just believe the factory settings - most of us should know that there's more to KEEPING a project true/square/etc than just having accurately cut pieces to begin with. If that's you, it's perfectly fine to just use the factory markings, make your cuts, THEN use a true square and a ton of clamps and braces and "hopscotch" your welds, leaving everything clamped (HARD) til it cools... Steve
BigBlue1
Veteran Member
Re: Big Barn痴 Retirement Farm Shop
I'm considering that. It just seems like it would be more cumbersome that way. Maybe I just need to draw it out that way to get a good feel for how it would end up.
Rob
I'm considering that. It just seems like it would be more cumbersome that way. Maybe I just need to draw it out that way to get a good feel for how it would end up.
Rob