Dealer BigTex Tractors, Great Dealer Selling Great Tractors!

[K5lwq]

I have a question about putting PTO in gear. When we did the dyno it was very difficult to put the PTO in gear. I have only used PTO a few times since I got the tractor and didn't have any issues.

My question is do you use the clutch to put PTO in gear? We tried both clutch and no clutch and it didn't seem to make a difference. Being independent I would think you could just move the lever without the clutch.

 

[ptsg]

The clutch won't affect anything on the PTO as it's completely independent.

It's take a firm push/pull on the lever though. You can always turn the PTO on, then OFF and try engage it, so it rotates things around and maybe it stops in a better place.

 

[K5lwq]

Thanks. That was my thoughts just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

 

[ptsg]

Hey K5. One thing I forgot to mention is that the manual is a bit too vague about grease zerks.

These geared 15 series have a couple more zerks than mentioned in the manual, specially for the pedals. This may apply to Hydro and 20/25 series as well.

Here is a list:

- 1 for the left tie rod
- 1 for the right tie rod
- 2 for the front axle pivot blocks
- 1 for the clutch pedal
- 1 for the brake pedals
- 2 for the release bearing clutch pivot shaft (one on each side) These two are kinda hidden and are a bit of a pain to access with the grease gun, so they can be overlooked by the dealer.
- 1 for the top link draft linkage ( I don't think this applies to US models)
- 1 for the adjustable side arm

I believe that's all. There is also lots of linkages that can benefit from some sort of spray lube.

Yours being a newer model, I'm not sure if this applies entirely but it might worth a check.

 

[K5lwq]

Thanks brother, I will give everything a once over. I did spray the PTO linkage with silicone lube and worked it a dozen times or so with no issues. It was strange but the only time it was a pain was at the JD dealer. Maybe she was mad at me for taking her there? :confused3:

 

[K5lwq]

Found the first issue that needs to be addressed. The spring loaded pin that holds the brush guard in place fell out. They used a very small cotter pin to hold the spring and it broke.

I replaced with a small bolt temporarily while I come up with a better idea. I thought about a roll pin but installing it would be a pain. Any suggestions?

 

[ptsg]

Do you need to flip the brush guard to open the open on these newer style 15 series? I believe they changed the hood on the front to make it easier to open.

Anyways, you can maybe find a pin that could work there, then install on of those spring cotter pins on the end. Or get a bolt and cross drill it on the end.

Like this:

 

[K5lwq]

I haven't tried to open the hood without swinging the brush guard forward so I can't answer your question. I will figure something to hold the spring in place. I was surprised to see such a small split pin to hold that heavy of a spring.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I haven't had to tip my brush guard forward to open my hood. My hood latch is on the right side of the nose, and it's opened by pulling the rod towards you.

I think this is the only pic I have with a full view of the open hood and brush guard. Won't be able to see much detail I'm afraid.

 

[Cougsfan]

I have noticed that Branson totally revamped their hood latch mechanism about 2 years ago, right after I bought mine. Mine oddly went way out of adjustment and wouldn't latch anymore, and I had to take it off and modify it appreciably to make it work. That's probably why they re-designed it. I have never seen one where you have to tip the brush guard forward to open the hood.