Blade Clearance from Ground

[RedDirt]

Thanks MtnView for clarifying for me. In the first four photos of my link you can see the fresh weld on the tabs that connect the BB to the lower arms, especially the close up in pic #4.

Originally the tabs were horizontal and the pins were in front of the main support bar of the BB facing the tractor. Rotating them so the pins are below the main arm of the BB not only lowered the arms it also set the lower pins further behind the top link attachment allowing an increased top link length. The combination of both conditions increased my full up ground clearance from 8" to 17".

You are right that this may not be a fix to use with a quick hitch but it may help others.

Stuart, Before I rotated my lower link tabs I considered purchasing a second adjustable side link figuring I could then shorten both side links and get better lift. Would this be an option for you (cheaper than two longer sway links)? See parts "C" & "D" in your diagram.

 

[stuart]

Redirt: I am still considering 2 options at the moment.
The First is to move both lift arms back to the connecting places where the anti-sway links attach on the draft links. Then I will use chain to (lengthen) replace the anti-sway links. That would be cheaper than buying JD anti-sway links for 100$ each.
The Second route I will consider (if that does not give me enough lift height) would be to buy 2 NEW SHORTER lift links that would give me the ability to raise the hitch to a higher position.
BOTH of my lift links (D & H) are already adjusted all the way to shorten their length so it seems I would have to replace both. Did you mean to say "H" not "C" in my diagram?
I was looking at Weaver's Compact Tractor as a possible source of new ones. Hitch Kits: 3 point Hitch Kits || Weaver's Compact Tractor Parts & Compact Tractor Salvage

 

[JohninCT]

This may have been mentioned already,but in looking at the picture of the blade attached to the tractor it looks like there is an upward angle of the blade main beam. This is causing your draft links to be pretty well raised to hitch up to the pins. This limits amount of your remaining lift. If you shortened up on the top link and got the blade beam so that it was more in line with your draft links then you'd be able to lift the blade much higher. Am I missing something?

 

[stuart]

John; I will attempt to shorten the top link a bit more but when I do this I change the angle of the blade to cut less. I was attempting to have the blade square with the ground so it would not cut too much or too little when it contact the road surface. Am I missing something OR just not understanding?

 

[RedDirt]

Redirt: I am still considering 2 options at the moment.

BOTH of my lift links (D & H) are already adjusted all the way to shorten their length so it seems I would have to replace both. Did you mean to say "H" not "C" in my diagram?
I was looking at Weaver's Compact Tractor as a possible source of new ones. Hitch Kits: 3 point Hitch Kits || Weaver's Compact Tractor Parts & Compact Tractor Salvage

Stuart,
The diagram is pretty small on my screen. It looked like C&D was your adjustable side (lift) link and H was the fixed length link. I was suggesting you replace the fixed length link with an adjustable one.

Normally one side (lift) link is fixed and the other is adjustable to allow tilt. With two adjustable links, one on each side, you could raise up both sides (shorten both the links), keeping the blade level (no tilt side-to-side) and get a higher lift.

Do you already have two adjustable side links? Two adjustable links can be a good thing as it allows for more tilt adjustment (lengthen one, shorten the other) than available with one.

You aren't missing anything on your top link adjustment consideration. It is primarily used to adjust the angle of attack of the blade with the ground. I think your solution to getting more height will be in a reconfiguration of your side links or lower links. Options would be 1) changing the lower drag link connection point at the blade arm as I did (but may not work with your quick hitch, 2) changing the attachment point of the side link on the drag link (and in your case lengthening the check chains), or 3) shortening the side (lift) links. The latter could/may be accomplished by replacing the fixed side link with an adjustable one if in fact you don't have two adjustable side links already.

 

[stuart]

Redirt. Both of my Lift Links are adjustable and they are adjusted all the way to make them shorter already. This did double my lift height from 5" to 10". The Lift link on the right side facing the back of the tractor has an adjustment that you can make w/o unhooking the Link itself. The Left side Lift Link must be unhooked and then can be (and was) shortened (by screwing it in further) and then reattached.
I can purchase DIFFERENT Lift Links that will be shorter or have adjustments to make them shorter than the ones currently on the tractor. So # 2 and 3 in your reply are still on the table as possibilities.
I am trying to understand #1 and am not certain that this is even possible for my setup. Perhaps a little explanation OR a photo would help. Thanks.
I will let you know what I come up with when I try # 2 but it will be a week or so before I get back there to do it.

 

[Leejohn]

I had to do this for my rake. It looks like its about the only thing that well work, it's what RedDirt is saying. Also doesn't cost much and all your other stuff well not change. I know your pins aren't the same as mine are, but I think you could come up with something. Hope this gives you a ideal how it might be done.

 

[stuart]

Yes I see now. I guess you attach the 3 point arms to the lower pins and the center link to the lower pin also giving you higher lift.
Correct?

 

[RedDirt]

Stuart,
Leejohn has got it. On mine I cut off the pin bracket that was horizontal and facing the tractor (like his OEM) then rewelded it facing down. If you did like Leejohn (bolted an add-on plate), or cut and rewelded the bracket at 45 degrees perhaps your quick hitch could still work.

Once you get it worked out make sure you fully raise, lower, tilt raise, tilt lower the blade and look for binding points. Put it in every possible position and look. I missed one binding point and slightly bent my top link due to the geometry reconfiguration. Luckily I was able to straighten it, chase the turnbuckle treads, and salvaged it.

Hey, I like the way your "fixed" length side link is actually adjustable! I may look into making that modification on my fixed link. Sometimes I want more tilt for ditching than my one adjustable link allows.

 

[Leejohn]

stuart

Did you get your blade clearance worked out yet?