Block Heater Install Question

[von-mil]

I am about to install an engine block heater in my B3030. The part number is 70000-73274 and the kit includes these items:



First of all, I would like to confirm that I have the right kit for my tractor. The Kubota dealer, as well as several internet sources, tell me that it is correct. However the instruction sheet that came with it describes how to install it onto a KX series excavator and a SVL series track loader, both of which have a V3307DI-T engine. My B3030 has the V1505-E2-D21 engine. Assuming that I do have the correct heater kit, what do I do with the hose clamp and the small steel plug that are shown in the center of the above picture? I am thinking that they are not needed for my tractor.

Another question. The dealer thought that it might be necessary to install the heating element into the block with the two element prongs parallel to the ground as opposed to up/down or any other angle even if it means turning back the tightness a bit to get them level to each other. This sounds pretty strange to me. I've done quite a bit of searching but can't find anything on this.



Any advice anyone. Thanks

 

[greenrider1]

I don't think orientation of he prongs matters. They will heat liquid in any direction, and heat always rises. The only ones I am familiar with are the ones that replace a frost plug in the block, where you have to remove the frost plug and then insert a threaded adapter, which the heating element then threads into. I didn't pay any attention to the orientation of the prongs, and they work just fine.

 

[ametcalf]

I am about to install an engine block heater in my B3030. The part number is 70000-73274 and the kit includes these items:

View attachment 250921

First of all, I would like to confirm that I have the right kit for my tractor. The Kubota dealer, as well as several internet sources, tell me that it is correct. However the instruction sheet that came with it describes how to install it onto a KX series excavator and a SVL series track loader, both of which have a V3307DI-T engine. My B3030 has the V1505-E2-D21 engine. Assuming that I do have the correct heater kit, what do I do with the hose clamp and the small steel plug that are shown in the center of the above picture? I am thinking that they are not needed for my tractor.

Another question. The dealer thought that it might be necessary to install the heating element into the block with the two element prongs parallel to the ground as opposed to up/down or any other angle even if it means turning back the tightness a bit to get them level to each other. This sounds pretty strange to me. I've done quite a bit of searching but can't find anything on this.

View attachment 250925

Any advice anyone. Thanks

I installed a block heater that I got from the dealer on our BX23 and the instructions in the box did not match the tractor nor the engine. It has been a while and I can't remember the details for sure but I do remember there were some extra parts in the box. I did a search on this website, learned what I could and dove in. The installation worked out well. My opinion on the element prong alignment is that the prongs are so short that it doesn't matter. If the prongs were longer it might make a difference for strength but I don't see these breaking off. I don't know if the plug you pull out has the 17mm allen type socket or not. Mine did and I ended up buying a set from HF that work with a socket set. If you need me to look up the part number I can. I didn't have an allen wrench that big so I tried to weld up one out of a bolt but the plug was in so tight that I broke the bolt. That's when I broke down and bought the set from HF. Once I got that, the job went well. I didn't even drain the radiator. I started the engine and let it warm up a little, removed the radiator cap to relieve the pressure, put the cap back on and let the engine cool down so the system had a little negative pressure on it. I then spun the plug out, and stuck the heater in and lost less than a cup of coolant in the process.
Good luck.
A. Metcalf

 

[von-mil]

Thanks for the replies. I will not worry about the orientation of the heating element prongs. If they end up aligned with each other, fine but I'm not going to over-tighten or under-tighten just for alignment reasons.

Yes, I do need to use a 17mm allen socket and no, I do not have one. I will probably just buy the single socket to fit on my breaker bar rather than buy a whole set. I'll try some Liquid Wrench on the exposed portion of the plug for a few days prior to my attempt to remove it.

I could use the heater this morning - it's about 0 degrees and I've got snow to move.

 

[tjl5709]

Your BH looks like what I but into my BX2660. The instructions did not match either. I went to Harbor Freight to get the 17mm hex socket driver. (I bought a set as the price is right). You need to get some good leverage on that hex plug, so I would find the 17mm hex mounted into a socket if you can. A hex wrench might not give ya the leverage or maneuverability. Just a thought.

Also, I drained the motor thru the hole for the HEX plug. Took alittle engineering with duct tape, aluminum foil to make a trough/funnel, and the bucket to catch the AF, but it was way easier than trying to get back into the hoses by the radiator. It drops just the right amount of fluid to install the BH. :thumbsup:

I just wrapped the BH good in teflon tape and tightened till it would not move. Its brass so be kind. Getting the wrench on it was another story..........

Plugged it in, and it works very well.

 

[ametcalf]

One thing I should have mentioned if you haven't thought about it. You need to make sure you run the engine for a while after refilling the coolant before you plug the heater in. You want to make sure there aren't any air pockets around the heater prongs before you plug the heater in or the heater will burn up. I assume these heaters are like water heaters and depend on being submersed in a liquid to keep from burning up.
Before you spend too much on a single 17mm hex wrench I noticed HF has the set on sale for $13.99 right now. It's a personal thing with me but I prefer Teflon based pipe dope to Teflon tape. I have had some bad experiences with Teflon tape.
A. Metcalf

 

[jakell2010]

When I bought my. B series this year in NH, I asked the dealer to install a BH and he refused saying that Kubotas starting systems are so efficient that even with New Hampshire winters he's never had a Kubota that wouldn't start even downtown 20 below,,,and that if you use the proper engine oil for your climate, lubrication was never an issue

Just what I was told

 

[ametcalf]

When I bought my. B series this year in NH, I asked the dealer to install a BH and he refused saying that Kubotas starting systems are so efficient that even with New Hampshire winters he's never had a Kubota that wouldn't start even downtown 20 below,,,and that if you use the proper engine oil for your climate, lubrication was never an issue

Just what I was told

I don't have much cold weather experience with our BX23 as we bought it last spring and this winter has been unusually warm here in Central KY. I do think the starting system on Kubotas is very good. I installed the block heater just so it would be easier on the engine. I generally plug my F250, Allis 5040, and BX23 in when it is below 40 degrees F. I'm not sure where in Central Wisconsin the OP lives but where I grew up 50 miles north of Eau Claire -20 was a balmy January night. -35 to -40 wasn't unusual. It even got to -60 one time but we had already left the state by then. Just hang around an airport sometime when it is really cold and listen to some of the jet engines start. They all start but some of them sure don't sound happy. They are also prohibited from using takeoff thrust until the oil temperature gauge comes off the peg.
It is nice to know that according to your dealer if I ever have an emergency that calls for starting the Kubota when it is below zero there is a good chance that it will start without plugging it in.
A. Metcalf

 

[DieselDon]

Here's my take on block heaters (I'm in W. Michigan):

1. I've installed several on Mercedes diesels. Pain in the butt
2. I've owned n operated 16 several vintage diesel cars
3. We run 5 coach busses for our youth program
4. I now prefer a halogen, 300wt light to a block heater. No installation, flexibility and the same performance. Just slide it under the engine, get your 3 hours in and it's awesome.
5. Although my b2620 doesn't need either, I still prefer warm starts for the health of the engine. Pistons on cylinder walls, without oil, doesn't do it for me.

...for what it's worth

 

[herringchoker]

..... Pistons on cylinder walls, without oil, doesn't do it for me.

I totally agree. :thumbsup:

 

[Mr. Ace]

I also recently installed the same Kubota block heater on my B2320. The installation instructions were indeed pretty useless and were only a hindrance. I also wondered if I had the right part, since many Kubota tractor models were listed on the sheet, except mine (apparently Kubota can't be bothered to provide proper instructions to their paying customers).

The installation went quite smoothly, no thanks to Kubota. A 17mm 1/2" drive hex socket is probably a must to remove the engine plug in which the block heater is installed; it came out pretty easily for me with use of a breaker bar.

The hose clamp and hose plug included with the kit, are quite confusing, and of course, they not very well explained in the instructions. I BELIEVE, that you only need the hose clamp and plug, if you have a model in which you must remove a radiator hose to the engine block, to make room for the block heater - i.e., the heater is installed into the engine block "hole" previously used by the hose that you removed. After you remove the hose to make room for the block heater, you then plug and clamp the hose, as it is apparently non-critical. Since my model, had an existing "unused" engine plug waiting for the block heater, I did not need the hose clamp & plug.

For those that have a model in which the hose clamp & plug were needed and used, please feel free to correct my deduction.

Good luck with your installation.

 

[von-mil]

OP here. Thanks for all the replies and advice.

It's true that I probably don't really need the block heater. The B3030 is stored in an unheated pole barn and using the glow plugs it has always started up easily although it does cough and sputter for about 10 seconds when the temp is in the 0-10 degree range. But for the decent price (by Kubota standards) of less than $40 and a hopefully easy installation, I figure it is well worth it. I plan on keeping the tractor for a long time and I use it just as much in the winter as I do in the summer. I'm just trying to baby the engine when it come to cold-weather starts.

 

[von-mil]

Before you spend too much on a single 17mm hex wrench I noticed HF has the set on sale for $13.99 right now. It's a personal thing with me but I prefer Teflon based pipe dope to Teflon tape. I have had some bad experiences with Teflon tape.

I could not find a 17mm hex bit at the farm/fleet/hardware stores around here so the install is off for now. There are no Harbor Freight stores near me but I will find the 17mm bit somewhere - perhaps TSC has a kit similar to HF's. One store I went to suggested an auto parts shop since I am looking for an engine block specific tool. At this point I will probably just wait until spring to install the heater since I was planning on changing/flushing the antifreeze at that time.

What bad experiences did you have using teflon tape?

 

[ametcalf]

I could not find a 17mm hex bit at the farm/fleet/hardware stores around here so the install is off for now. There are no Harbor Freight stores near me but I will find the 17mm bit somewhere - perhaps TSC has a kit similar to HF's. One store I went to suggested an auto parts shop since I am looking for an engine block specific tool. At this point I will probably just wait until spring to install the heater since I was planning on changing/flushing the antifreeze at that time.

What bad experiences did you have using teflon tape?

I'm not trying to talk you into Harbor Freight but on their website they are advertising $6.99 flat shipping. Just thought I would bring this to your attention. I can't imagine how sad I would be if I didn't have a Harbor Freight about 20 miles away. But you do have Farm & Fleet and Fleet Farm that I wish we had.
Hopefully spring is just around the corner even in the frozen north. I think we had the coldest night of the year last night. It got down to about 12 degrees here. We have daffodils that are almost ready to blossom so I hope they didn't get hurt too bad. I did see some about a mile from here that were in blossom on February 3 which is the earliest I have ever seen here.
It is my understanding that while Teflon tape does a good job of sealing, it does not lubricate as well as pipe dope. We had a plumbing company back in the '70s. On occasion we would take a joint apart that had been put together with Teflon tape and after we got it apart the threads had been damaged. One other problem I had was not the Teflon tapes fault directly but it would not have happened if the mechanic had used pipe dope instead of the tape. I had the engine overhauled on an '85 F-150. After I drove it a few miles the oil pressure fell to zero. By the time I got it to the side of the road the oil pressure came back up. I started to drive again and the pressure fell to zero. There didn't seem to be a pattern to the oil pressure loss so having been a plumber I decided to put a pressure gauge on the side of the engine where the oil pressure transmitter screwed into the side of the engine. When I screwed out the oil pressure transmitter I found the problem. When the mechanic installed the transmitter using Teflon tape he left a little piece loose on the end when he finished wrapping the treads. When he screwed the transmitter into the block that little piece could flop over the orifice blocking the oil flow to the transmitter thus giving a false indication. I went back to the garage that did the work and told them they might want to throw the Teflon tape away and use pipe dope instead. I could tell they weren't too interested in my advice. A couple months later when I went to talk to them about another problem the owner confided in me that he finally threw the Teflon tape away after they tore down an engine for the same problem.
I'm not a crusader on the subject, just sharing my personal experience.
On a different but related subject I had to change the packing on a shower faucet stem last week and couldn't get the felt type packing to hold that I had bought so I tried some string type Teflon packing that I got at Lowe's and I was impressed with how well it worked.
A. Metcalf

 

[horsinaround]

I could not find a 17mm hex bit at the farm/fleet/hardware stores around here so the install is off for now.

If you have to have a 17mm hex, just use a 17mm bolt and put a double nut on it really tight...then use a standard socket and put the bold head in the hex hole... I have done it many many times.

 

[ametcalf]

If you have to have a 17mm hex, just use a 17mm bolt and put a double nut on it really tight...then use a standard socket and put the bold head in the hex hole... I have done it many many times.

I don't know what the metric equivalent of a grade 8 bolt is but you need to use a really tough bolt. I tried horsinaround's suggestion with a regular 17mm bolt and twisted it off. That plug on my BX23 was really in tight. I was afraid I would break the 17mm socket hex wrench I got from HF but thankfully it did hold.
A. Metcalf

 

[von-mil]

If you have to have a 17mm hex, just use a 17mm bolt and put a double nut on it really tight...then use a standard socket and put the bold head in the hex hole... I have done it many many times.

I looked for bolts with a 17mm head and the closest I could find was between 15 and 16mm. Might still work I suppose. Your socket would have to be deep enough to cover both nuts - is that true?

 

[Ductape]

I did the same block heater install on my B3030 last winter. Not alot I can add, but will confirm what others have said. Installation guide was useless, and yes, there are a couple un-needed parts in there. I drained my coolant using the factory drain. Its below the radiator near the left front wheel. From memory, the knob is white in color. I too went to Harbor Freight and bought the whole set of hex sockets to get the 17mm. I had a couple sets, but none that large in metric. The set was cheap enough to not sweat having duplicates of what I already had. I used a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and the plug came out no problem. Teflon taped the heater and installed it. No need to worry about the orientation. I did zip tie the plug out of the way to keep it from getting into trouble. My coolant was good, so I reused it. Just had to add a couple ounces to top it off. I can't imagine the whole install took an hour.

 

[rziarno]

did you get an answer to the clamp small steel plug question?

 

[avc8130]

Have you guys tried using a spark plug socket backwards with an extension? Most have a hex that fits inside a 17mm pretty well.

http://www.i-bmw.com/gallery/data/1050/medium/IMG_0052.jpg

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