Bought a Miller Multimatic 200

[Shield Arc]

Welding aluminum with a spool gun. You should push. That way the gas coverage is out in front of the weld.

 

[yomax4]

Yeah, You really need to push AL. for gas coverage and also to keep the heat moving forward plus you get nicer flat beads instead of bird poop. Usually with a spoolgun if you just have a conventional welder you may need to stop the weld just short of the end and spot the last 1/2" due to burn through on ends and corners. Takes a little getting used to.

 

[Sodo]

I've now done 3 welds. Yes having trouble with the end melting/dropping out. Need to do a lot more before I dive into my "project" of "purchased" raw materials. I will practice that, stopping before the end then spot the last 1/2", make sense.

 

[Shield Arc]

Sometimes it works best to stop in the center.

 

[Arc weld]

When looking for advice on how to improve your welds, show the finished weld as welded and not cleaned up or polished so much you can't even see the ripples in the weld. The ripples in the weld can tell more than you think.

 

[Sodo]

Its just lightly wirebrushed, just enough to get the soot off - the ripples are so faint it would be hard to see in a photo. Need a different method to get the soot off (to see the ripples).

This pic is simply my first weld, I simply wanted to show that if the first weld is this easy, success is feasible. Not really ready for advice yet as the whole of my experience is not ready for refinement as I was simply testing if it works at all. On my 3rd weld, molten aluminum dropped to the floor and spattered in all directions. My shop has a couple other projects going at the moment, and a pretty good mess brewing, it's not safe for welding, if ever. Normally I weld outside, consequently have to wait for a wind-less day. But how well this first test weld came out,,,,, was inspiring.

I will certainly weld more Aluminum soon in various conditions and a more organized fashion and will post pics for advice.

 

[Shield Arc]

Yesterday I was reading over on Welding Web. A guy who owns a welding fab shop in Los Angeles says he whips back and forth when welding aluminum with a spool gun. And sometimes uses a C pattern too.

 

[Sodo]

I tried that and that's when the molten Aluminum dropped out (on weld #3, my last). Anyway there are many things to learn. I'm sure disappointed I can't just walk out there and weld. All I have here at home, is a garage, and it's 3/4 full. Wish I could clear it out but can't do that (at the moment).

I don't have a stainless steel wirebrush yet either.

 

[Shield Arc]

How do you get the soot off a MIG weld without messing up the ripples?

A stainless steel wire brush. But wait until the weld is cold! Also, never use that brush for anything but aluminum!

 

[Sodo]

This is some GOOD STUFF, thanks! I need to get a stainless brush, get setup and start a new thread with topic "welding aluminum DC with a spoolgun". Or maybe someone else can start one. I can't do it right away but I certainly will, this Aluminum MIG welding has my attention, especially since it seems to "work" with the tools that I "have"..:thumbsup:

 

[Big Barn]

Also, get some acetone for weld prep. Keep some just for this purpose in a small, sealed (it evaporates quickly) container so that when you soak your rag you don't contaminate the bigger can.





Terry

 

[Sodo]

Thanks Terry. They tried to sell me some "aluminum cleaner" in a spray can at the LWS but I balked, thinking that with a little research I'll findt some existing solvent that's cheaper.
So you don't think the "dedicated ALuminum wire brush" needs to be "stainless"? Thats exactly the brush I used, and it took off all my ripples. Not that there were many. Also I might not'a waited for it to cool.:duh:

 

[Big Barn]

Thanks Terry. They tried to sell me some "aluminum cleaner" in a spray can at the LWS but I balked, thinking that with a little research I'll findt some existing solvent that's cheaper.
So you don't think the "dedicated ALuminum wire brush" needs to be "stainless"? Thats exactly the brush I used, and it took off all my ripples. Not that there were many. Also I might not'a waited for it to cool.:duh:

Sorry for the confusion, Sodo. That was a stainless wire brush pictured. It was labeled to remind me it was dedicated for use on aluminum.

At my age I need all the reminders I can get although I have yet to label my sock drawer.

Here's my 'glove box'

 

[downsizingnow48]

At my age I need all the reminders I can get although I have yet to label my sock drawer.
]

Throw away all your socks. Buy 10 pair same kind. No need to fold or match and you can select two matching socks in the dark. This is a life changing experience.

 

[Big Barn]

Throw away all your socks. Buy 10 pair same kind. No need to fold or match and you can select two matching socks in the dark. This is a life changing experience.

I'm way ahead of you. Costco work socks. Black.

 

[dragoneggs]

Throw away all your socks. Buy 10 pair same kind. No need to fold or match and you can select two matching socks in the dark. This is a life changing experience.

When I retire... I am there!!!

 

[dragoneggs]

Also, get some acetone for weld prep. Keep some just for this purpose in a small, sealed (it evaporates quickly) container so that when you soak your rag you don't contaminate the bigger can.

View attachment 490222

Terry

I'm no welder... my consistency SUCKS! I can't even stay on a line. :ashamed:
But I will vouch for acetone. I deal a lot with structural adhesive bonding and acetone is a good friend! And hard to beat it.
Believe it or not, there are proper ways to wipe with solvents too!

 

[Arc weld]

MIG on aluminum is always DC. The soot is because it's dirty. The stainless brush is an important first step in cleaning. There are aluminum cleaners that work well also.

 

[Sodo]

I've been using the Spoolmate100 a bit more. It' works pretty well. One problem I have is the weld start, it takes a little while for the heat to build up and the weld doesn't penetrate. So it kinda seems to me (for the weld quality with the spoolmate) that it's better to start in the middle where the stresses will be low.

You can see that startup lump where it was cold on the inside fillet.

The one outside weld with only 2 legs sucking heat away it looks like the heat built up quicker and penetration is better (than the 3-leg joints).

I preheated other joints to 200F and the spoolmate welded them much better. Even 1/4" thick. Anyway I got my Aluminum projects going with this Spoolmate100 and it's a good tool.

 

[yomax4]

Might try 500 degrees on 1/4. really wets in good. i always turn on acetylene only and soot smoke the weld area. turn on the 02 and heat til the black is gone = 500 degrees. Spoolguns love 500 degrees on AL.