Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller

   / Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller #31  
Same here, my 3cyl B7001 with D750 engine is running in mineral 15w40. In fact mineral oil from Lidl about 20 euros/5 lt or 15euros special offer days.German made oil and the specs mention both for diesel and gas engines.
They also sell 10w40 semi-synthetic ,also german made,the one Opel/GM sells under their brand. 20 or 15 euros on LIDL brand for 5lt jug, 37 euros GM branded ;)


* 5 lt = about 5.25 quarts
Pretty much the same as I do, however, I tend to avoid buying oil from Lidl or similar places because I've noticed some of the oils they sell around here are actually recycled oils. So I just buy from vehicle parts store, still on the cheap side. While I'm there, I get an oil filter as well.

Heck, I don't think I can easily find 10W30 around. The 10W30 I keep finding is the transmission/hydraulic oil for tractors.

I doubt you'll ever have an issue related to using 15W40.

Here in Portugal, we run the same oil all year around. It's not cold enough to justify changing to a thinner oil for winter. I suspect Greece is very similar.
 
   / Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Pretty much the same as I do, however, I tend to avoid buying oil from Lidl or similar places because I've noticed some of the oils they sell around here are actually recycled oils. So I just buy from vehicle parts store, still on the cheap side. While I'm there, I get an oil filter as well.

Heck, I don't think I can easily find 10W30 around. The 10W30 I keep finding is the transmission/hydraulic oil for tractors.

I doubt you'll ever have an issue related to using 15W40.

Here in Portugal, we run the same oil all year around. It's not cold enough to justify changing to a thinner oil for winter. I suspect Greece is very similar.
I am aware of the rumours about LIDL engine oils.Maybe it's true ,maybe not.Their semi synthetic 10w40 is same as OPEL/GM ,and the last is a decent engine oil.

Needless to say that buying cheap side from specilized stores, unknown brands ,has almost the same risk to end up using recycled oils! 🙂
Ofcourse oil filter comes along with any oil replacement.

The last couple days I search for 10w30 and I am getting the same ''feeling" , that those oils are categorized as hydraulic oils. However there are 10w30 in the market appropriate for engine use. Monograde 30w same story, but no chance to find synthetic. I have to "dig" more.

Rotella T6 absolutely abscent from our market,only Helix and Rimula available!
Local refinary giant chooses what to sell or not,because they have bought SHELL trademark .

I think maverick is on the right side of the oil war😄
Since japanese have tight tolerances.
Eur/americans may have got it wrong on this matter,because we are familiar with eur/american tractors.
But I have posted my concerns and looking forward to his reply.

Hey ,there is a 3rd way. Use cheap ,replace twice a year.
Though,engine oil is not a great expense, especially if you run a bussiness and you pay net price ,without 24% vat, at the end
 
Last edited:
   / Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller #33  
I am aware of the rumours about LIDL engine oils.Maybe it's true ,maybe not.Their semi synthetic 10w40 is same as OPEL/GM ,and the last is a decent engine oil.

Needless to say that buying cheap side from specilized stores, unknown brands ,has almost the same risk to end up using recycled oils! 🙂
Ofcourse oil filter comes along with any oil replacement.

The last couple days I search for 10w30 and I am getting the same ''feeling" , that those oils are categorized as hydraulic oils. However there are 10w30 in the market appropriate for engine use. Monograde 30w same story, but no chance to find synthetic. I have to "dig" more.

Rotella T6 absolutely abscent from our market,only Helix and Rimula available!
Local refinary giant chooses what to sell or not,because they have bought SHELL trademark .

I think maverick is on the right side of the oil war😄
Since japanese have tight tolerances.
Eur/americans may have got it wrong on this matter,because we are familiar with eur/american tractors.
But I have posted my concerns and looking forward to his reply.

Hey ,there is a 3rd way. Use cheap ,replace twice a year.
Though,engine oil is not a great expense, especially if you run a bussiness and you pay net price ,without 24% vat, at the end
I'm running 10W30 synthetic in my Yanmar right now.

Yanmar 2018 info, The translation seemed to work via google.

yanmar-oils.png


This too is echoed by Deere.

Yanmar-oils JD spec manual.png


Shell Rotella T4 is acceptable as well. T6 is the synthetic.

Shell Rotella T4 10W30 Diesel.jpg
 
   / Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller #34  
I am aware of the rumors about LIDL engine oils.Maybe it's true ,maybe not.Their semi synthetic 10w40 is same as OPEL/GM ,and the last is a decent engine oil.

Needless to say that buying cheap side from specialized stores, unknown brands ,has almost the same risk to end up using recycled oils! 🙂
Of course oil filter comes along with any oil replacement.

The last couple days I search for 10w30 and I am getting the same ''feeling" , that those oils are categorized as hydraulic oils. However there are 10w30 in the market appropriate for engine use. Monograde 30w same story, but no chance to find synthetic. I have to "dig" more.

Rotella T6 absolutely absent from our market,only Helix and Rimula available!
Local refinery giant chooses what to sell or not,because they have bought SHELL trademark .

I think maverick is on the right side of the oil war😄
Since japanese have tight tolerances.
Eur/americans may have got it wrong on this matter,because we are familiar with eur/american tractors.
But I have posted my concerns and looking forward to his reply.

Hey ,there is a 3rd way. Use cheap ,replace twice a year.
Though,engine oil is not a great expense, especially if you run a bussiness and you pay net price ,without 24% vat, at the end
Yes, the BASE oil in hydraulic fluid tends to be 10W30. Then additives blended into the oil making it results as hydraulic fluid.
Thus, the Deere Hy-gard JDM J20C is 10W30 with their specialized additives. And the J20D is the winter low viscosity based on the 5W30 with additives.

Do you have Ashland-Valvoline oils in your region?
 
   / Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller
  • Thread Starter
#35  
I'm running 10W30 synthetic in my Yanmar right now.

Yanmar 2018 info, The translation seemed to work via google.

View attachment 871177

This too is echoed by Deere.

View attachment 871178

Shell Rotella T4 is acceptable as well. T6 is the synthetic.

View attachment 871179
Aren't those two guidelines somehow contradictory?
Or better,we should distinguish what is considered summer temperature.
South Europe, south to central California,Florida, vast continental or coastal US regions ,face continuous summer daytime temperatures higher than 86F ! That is the norm.
In the past usually there were just 1 or 2 heatwaves lasting 3- 5 days throughout all summer season.Heatwaves of temperatures +/- 104F .
The last 3 years there is a new alarming trend. Heatwaves are at least 3 , but their duration has been increased to almost two weeks each.Even night temperatures do not fall below 86F.
Large number of people are not able to breath properly under those conditions.
It is not a joke. And the machines reach their limits.

Even Britain is facing serious heatwaves that last quite long.

So the 10w30 would not protect diesel engines adequately.
The only 30 grade engine oil capable to do so is the single grade 30w SAE.
I think that if we need to act by-the-book for mitsubishi or any other old japanese engines, there is no other option.

Few posts back :
"New questions pop-up

Does japanese engine keep the tight tolerances for ever? A used grey market engine ,or any other used japanese engine doesn't loosen up after some hundred or thousand hours? If they indeed loosen up,maybe this is the reason ,users of old japanese engines have no complaints with 15w40 ?
Why a mineral 10w30 or 30w create less soot than a new generation full synthetic 15w40 ? And maybe someone may find synthetic 10w30 on the market, but single grade 30w ?

Right now my Mt2801 has mineral 20w50 standing in there for 6 years. As mentioned, fired up well, no black or white smoke,no bad smell.
Is there a chance to cause any trouble by replacing it with fresh synthetic 10w30 or any other synthetic? Synthetics say they have additives to unclog bad staff accumulated in the engine."


What is your thought?

And yes,Valvoline products are available.

Generally speaking, 10w30 synthetic diesel oil is not available in greek domestic market. Only minerals ,and not sure about mixed. Same as what friend from Portugal mentioned earlier this day.
The most common synthetic available multigrades are 5w30,10w40 and 15w40....
 
Last edited:
   / Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller #36  
Aren't those two guidelines somehow contradictory?
Or better,we should distinguish what is considered summer temperature.
South Europe, south to central California,Florida, vast continental or coastal US regions ,face continuous summer daytime temperatures higher than 86F ! That is the norm.
In the past usually there were just 1 or 2 heatwaves lasting 3- 5 days throughout all summer season.Heatwaves of temperatures +/- 104F .
The last 3 years there is a new alarming trend. Heatwaves are at least 3 , but their duration has been increased to almost two weeks each.Even night temperatures do not fall below 86F.
Large number of people are not able to breath properly under those conditions.
It is not a joke. And the machines reach their limits.

Even Britain is facing serious heatwaves that last quite long.

So the 10w30 would not protect diesel engines adequately.
The only 30 grade engine oil capable to do so is the single grade 30w SAE.
I think that if we need to act by-the-book for mitsubishi or any other old japanese engines, there is no other option.

Few posts back :
"New questions pop-up

Does japanese engine keep the tight tolerances for ever? A used grey market engine ,or any other used japanese engine doesn't loosen up after some hundred or thousand hours? If they indeed loosen up,maybe this is the reason ,users of old japanese engines have no complaints with 15w40 ?
Why a mineral 10w30 or 30w create less soot than a new generation full synthetic 15w40 ? And maybe someone may find synthetic 10w30 on the market, but single grade 30w ?

Right now my Mt2801 has mineral 20w50 standing in there for 6 years. As mentioned, fired up well, no black or white smoke,no bad smell.
Is there a chance to cause any trouble by replacing it with fresh synthetic 10w30 or any other synthetic? Synthetics say they have additives to unclog bad staff accumulated in the engine."


What is your thought?

And yes,Valvoline products are available.

Generally speaking, 10w30 synthetic diesel oil is not available in greek domestic market. Only minerals ,and not sure about mixed. Same as what friend from Portugal mentioned earlier this day.
The most common synthetic available multigrades are 5w30,10w40 and 15w40....
Straight SAE 30 at one time was the best priced oil per quart here one could buy. Today, no so.

As these solar cycles keep increasing the heat for the next 11 years, SAE 30 is a good choice for these engines. Personally, I would go out in the extreme heat and work with equipment.

Some people blend or combine their oil grades. If the engine took 6 quarts, 3 would be straight SAE 30 and 3 would be 10W30. I do not know what this does mixing oil like this.

I snagged this from Quora again, it gives clues.

---
Is SAE 30 the same as 10W-30?

No, it is not.

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) maintains standard J300 which defines these classifications.

To be labelled 30 grade, the fluid must conform to two things
  1. Kinematic viscosity at low shear rate and a temperature of 100 °C must be be equal to or above 9.3 mm²/s and below 12.5 mm²/s. (1 millimeter²/second = 1 centistoke)
  2. Absolute viscosity at a shear rate of 1 (m/s)/µm* and a temperature of 150 °C must be 2.9 mPa∙s or greater. (1 millipascal∙second = 1 centipoise)
Both SAE 30 and SAE 10W-30 must conform to these.

The winter number is the one next to the W. To carry the 10W label, the fluid must conform to two things.
  1. Apparent viscosity at -25 °C in a standard cold-cranking simulator must be 7000 mPa∙s or less.
  2. Maximum pumping viscosity of 60,000 mPa∙s at -30 °C with no yield stress.
Only the 10W-30 need conform to this. The straight SAE 30 does not, and can have huge viscosity and poor pumpability at low temperatures.

Kinematic viscosity is measured by method ASTM D445. That uses a capillary-type viscometer.

Absolute viscosity at high shear rate and high temperature is measured by a few equivalent ASTM methods D4683, D4741, or D5481. Those are tapered roller bearing type, tapered plug type, or capillary type respectively.

* Note: ASTM D5481 uses a slightly higher standard shear rate than the other two.

Low-temperature cranking viscosity is measured by method ASTM D5293.

Pumpability is measured by method ASTM D4684.

Background:

A monograde oil and a multigrade oil will basically act the same around 100 °C. That is a typical temperature in the sump of an engine, so the power it takes to pump the oil will be about the same. Simplistically, the total friction penalty to the engine and hence the fuel mileage will be the same.

The multigrade will act much better at low temperature because it will have much lower viscosity and much better pumpability. Especially in winter weather this means the starter motor will crank the cold engine easier, the oil pump won’t starve, and fuel economy while the engine warms up will be much better. Together with all this, protection of the bearings and cylinder kit at operating temperature will be basically equivalent.

History:

At first, engine oils were simply refined crude plus additives for various things like wear resistance, scuffing resistance, and oxidation resistance. Depending on the type of base stock, the viscosity would drop off with increasing temperature more or less. The term to quantify this is the viscosity index.

Starting in the 1970s, there came a desire to increase the viscosity index beyond what could be achieved with the straight base stock, mostly to improve startability in cold weather. So, viscosity index improver additives were invented. These reduced the viscosity loss that happens with increased temperature so lower viscosity base stocks could be used while still protecting the engine when hot. Hence the advent of “multi-grade” oils.

A multi-grade is blended by taking a low-viscosity base stock, with grade basically around the winter number, and adding viscosity index improvers to enhance the viscosity at high temperature. Packages using synthetic base stocks can be an exception, but for ordinary “mineral” oils, this is how it’s done.

As starter motor systems improved into the 1980s at some point they were powerful enough to crank the engine even with very high viscosity oil. At that point another problem reared it’s ugly head: gelling. The engine would start but the oil would not pump. It would be like jelly or wax, with the oil pump cleaving off a chunk and nothing flowing to fill it. This destroyed a rash of car engines.

In response, the industry added the pumpability requirement. The “no yield stress” criterion means the fluid must not develop any cleaving and must remain fluid so it can be pumped.

Finally, an additional requirement came into play (I’m unsure when, but I think together with the advent of viscosity index improver additives) because certain oils tend to lose viscosity when undergoing shear. This occurs in planar bearings, at the piston ring-bore interface, and at gear teeth interfaces where the temperature is high, there is sliding velocity, and the gap is small. The choice of 1 m/s velocity per 1 µm gap at 150 °C is meant to represent typical main bearing operation in a hot condition, at speed, and under load. Higher viscosity in these conditions helps ensure hydrodynamic separation of the solid (metal) surfaces, protecting against excessive metal-on-metal friction and wear.

References for SAE J300, ASTM D445, D4683, D4741, D5481, D5293, and D4684:

Engine Oil Viscosity Classification

Standard Test Method for Kinematic Viscosity of Transparent and Opaque Liquids (and Calculation of Dynamic Viscosity)

ASTM D4683 - 17 Standard Test Method for Measuring Viscosity of New and Used Engine Oils at High Shear Rate and High Temperature by Tapered Bearing Simulator Viscometer at 150 °C

Standard Test Method for Measuring Viscosity at High Temperature and High Shear Rate by Tapered-Plug Viscometer

Standard Test Method for Measuring Apparent Viscosity at High-Temperature and High-Shear Rate by Multicell Capillary Viscometer

Standard Test Method for Apparent Viscosity of Engine Oils and Base Stocks Between -10 °C and -35 °C Using Cold-Cranking Simulator

Standard Test Method for Determination of Yield Stress and Apparent Viscosity of Engine Oils at Low Temperature
 
   / Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Pretty much the same as I do, however, I tend to avoid buying oil from Lidl or similar places because I've noticed some of the oils they sell around here are actually recycled oils. So I just buy from vehicle parts store, still on the cheap side. While I'm there, I get an oil filter as well.

Heck, I don't think I can easily find 10W30 around. The 10W30 I keep finding is the transmission/hydraulic oil for tractors.

I doubt you'll ever have an issue related to using 15W40.

Here in Portugal, we run the same oil all year around. It's not cold enough to justify changing to a thinner oil for winter. I suspect Greece is very similar.
In case you will ever want to try synthetic 10w30 for diesel
found an e-shop asking 51 euros/4 lt

The second option may suits you better ,its the spanish Repsol, who also makes diesel synthetic 10w30 . Will ask tomorrow for the price.

Seems that synthetic 10w30 will not get any serious heat stress.Contrary to mineral, because unlikely to it,base oil is 30 grade , whereas mineral base oil is 10 grade.
 
   / Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Straight SAE 30 at one time was the best priced oil per quart here one could buy. Today, no so.

As these solar cycles keep increasing the heat for the next 11 years, SAE 30 is a good choice for these engines. Personally, I would go out in the extreme heat and work with equipment.

Some people blend or combine their oil grades. If the engine took 6 quarts, 3 would be straight SAE 30 and 3 would be 10W30. I do not know what this does mixing oil like this.

I snagged this from Quora again, it gives clues.

---
Is SAE 30 the same as 10W-30?

No, it is not.

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) maintains standard J300 which defines these classifications.

To be labelled 30 grade, the fluid must conform to two things
  1. Kinematic viscosity at low shear rate and a temperature of 100 °C must be be equal to or above 9.3 mm²/s and below 12.5 mm²/s. (1 millimeter²/second = 1 centistoke)
  2. Absolute viscosity at a shear rate of 1 (m/s)/µm* and a temperature of 150 °C must be 2.9 mPa∙s or greater. (1 millipascal∙second = 1 centipoise)
Both SAE 30 and SAE 10W-30 must conform to these.

The winter number is the one next to the W. To carry the 10W label, the fluid must conform to two things.
  1. Apparent viscosity at -25 °C in a standard cold-cranking simulator must be 7000 mPa∙s or less.
  2. Maximum pumping viscosity of 60,000 mPa∙s at -30 °C with no yield stress.
Only the 10W-30 need conform to this. The straight SAE 30 does not, and can have huge viscosity and poor pumpability at low temperatures.

Kinematic viscosity is measured by method ASTM D445. That uses a capillary-type viscometer.

Absolute viscosity at high shear rate and high temperature is measured by a few equivalent ASTM methods D4683, D4741, or D5481. Those are tapered roller bearing type, tapered plug type, or capillary type respectively.

* Note: ASTM D5481 uses a slightly higher standard shear rate than the other two.

Low-temperature cranking viscosity is measured by method ASTM D5293.

Pumpability is measured by method ASTM D4684.

Background:

A monograde oil and a multigrade oil will basically act the same around 100 °C. That is a typical temperature in the sump of an engine, so the power it takes to pump the oil will be about the same. Simplistically, the total friction penalty to the engine and hence the fuel mileage will be the same.

The multigrade will act much better at low temperature because it will have much lower viscosity and much better pumpability. Especially in winter weather this means the starter motor will crank the cold engine easier, the oil pump won’t starve, and fuel economy while the engine warms up will be much better. Together with all this, protection of the bearings and cylinder kit at operating temperature will be basically equivalent.

History:

At first, engine oils were simply refined crude plus additives for various things like wear resistance, scuffing resistance, and oxidation resistance. Depending on the type of base stock, the viscosity would drop off with increasing temperature more or less. The term to quantify this is the viscosity index.

Starting in the 1970s, there came a desire to increase the viscosity index beyond what could be achieved with the straight base stock, mostly to improve startability in cold weather. So, viscosity index improver additives were invented. These reduced the viscosity loss that happens with increased temperature so lower viscosity base stocks could be used while still protecting the engine when hot. Hence the advent of “multi-grade” oils.

A multi-grade is blended by taking a low-viscosity base stock, with grade basically around the winter number, and adding viscosity index improvers to enhance the viscosity at high temperature. Packages using synthetic base stocks can be an exception, but for ordinary “mineral” oils, this is how it’s done.

As starter motor systems improved into the 1980s at some point they were powerful enough to crank the engine even with very high viscosity oil. At that point another problem reared it’s ugly head: gelling. The engine would start but the oil would not pump. It would be like jelly or wax, with the oil pump cleaving off a chunk and nothing flowing to fill it. This destroyed a rash of car engines.

In response, the industry added the pumpability requirement. The “no yield stress” criterion means the fluid must not develop any cleaving and must remain fluid so it can be pumped.

Finally, an additional requirement came into play (I’m unsure when, but I think together with the advent of viscosity index improver additives) because certain oils tend to lose viscosity when undergoing shear. This occurs in planar bearings, at the piston ring-bore interface, and at gear teeth interfaces where the temperature is high, there is sliding velocity, and the gap is small. The choice of 1 m/s velocity per 1 µm gap at 150 °C is meant to represent typical main bearing operation in a hot condition, at speed, and under load. Higher viscosity in these conditions helps ensure hydrodynamic separation of the solid (metal) surfaces, protecting against excessive metal-on-metal friction and wear.

References for SAE J300, ASTM D445, D4683, D4741, D5481, D5293, and D4684:

Engine Oil Viscosity Classification

Standard Test Method for Kinematic Viscosity of Transparent and Opaque Liquids (and Calculation of Dynamic Viscosity)

ASTM D4683 - 17 Standard Test Method for Measuring Viscosity of New and Used Engine Oils at High Shear Rate and High Temperature by Tapered Bearing Simulator Viscometer at 150 °C

Standard Test Method for Measuring Viscosity at High Temperature and High Shear Rate by Tapered-Plug Viscometer

Standard Test Method for Measuring Apparent Viscosity at High-Temperature and High-Shear Rate by Multicell Capillary Viscometer

Standard Test Method for Apparent Viscosity of Engine Oils and Base Stocks Between -10 °C and -35 °C Using Cold-Cranking Simulator

Standard Test Method for Determination of Yield Stress and Apparent Viscosity of Engine Oils at Low Temperature
kinematic viscosity @ 100oC /212oF

SAE 30 and 10w30 : about 10 cSt

15w40 : about 14 cSt

20w50 : about 18 cSt


When user manuals for old tractors were written ,synthetic oils were not mainstream, they were used in aerospace and some other sectors.Not by average Joe.

A mineral 10w30 is not recommended for air temperatures above 86F.

Then why sae 30 is recommended for temps up to 122F ?
Both oils run on same water cooling conditions.
One of the reasons comes in mind is that the mineral 10w30 even when not in use will deteriorate progressively at continuous ambient temperatures above 86F.
Because it is basicaly a 10 grade in which improvers were added to keep viscosity as high as a 30 single grade @ 212F

On the contrary , synthetic 10w30 do not degrade because of their man made synthetic base oil has very high shear resistance.
So ,I think there is no reason japanese tractors have their engine oil replaced above 86F, when synthetic 10w30 is used.

Both 15w40 and single 30 are cheaper oils.
True, but both are thicker when cold so engine parts wear out quicker,15w40 does not have the ideal viscosity at 100oC so maybe metal friction is higher as well as fuel consumption, moreover singlegrade 30 maybe is more prone to sludge formation.

I will probably go for this synthetic of LIQUI MOLY ,the only available so far in domestic market, a bit pricey though at 50+ euros / 4 lt
Engine takes 6.5 lt if the label under the engine hood is correct
 

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   / Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller #39  
kinematic viscosity @ 100oC /212oF

SAE 30 and 10w30 : about 10 cSt

15w40 : about 14 cSt

20w50 : about 18 cSt


When user manuals for old tractors were written ,synthetic oils were not mainstream, they were used in aerospace and some other sectors.Not by average Joe.

A mineral 10w30 is not recommended for air temperatures above 86F.

Then why sae 30 is recommended for temps up to 122F ?
Both oils run on same water cooling conditions.
One of the reasons comes in mind is that the mineral 10w30 even when not in use will deteriorate progressively at continuous ambient temperatures above 86F.
Because it is basicaly a 10 grade in which improvers were added to keep viscosity as high as a 30 single grade @ 212F

On the contrary , synthetic 10w30 do not degrade because of their man made synthetic base oil has very high shear resistance.
So ,I think there is no reason japanese tractors have their engine oil replaced above 86F, when synthetic 10w30 is used.

Both 15w40 and single 30 are cheaper oils.
True, but both are thicker when cold so engine parts wear out quicker,15w40 does not have the ideal viscosity at 100oC so maybe metal friction is higher as well as fuel consumption, moreover singlegrade 30 maybe is more prone to sludge formation.

I will probably go for this synthetic of LIQUI MOLY ,the only available so far in domestic market, a bit pricey though at 50+ euros / 4 lt
Engine takes 6.5 lt if the label under the engine hood is correct
Followed your link. Yes, this will work nicely for your machine. It covers all of these diesel engine makes.

Caterpillar ECF-3, Chrysler MS-10902, Cummins CES 20081, Cummins CES 20086, Detroit Diesel DFS 93K222, Isuzu, JASO DH-2, Mack EOS-4.5, MB 228.31, Mitsubishi, MTU Typ 2.1, Nissan, Renault Trucks RLD-3, Toyota, Volvo VDS-4.5

The synthetic 10w30 will last longer between changes. The 50+ euro for 4L, is 12.5euro for 1L. Longer life can save upwards of 3X mineral oil changes. Then the price is 4.17euro for 1L. (y)
 

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