MinnesotaEric
Super Member
Next time I see my friend, i'll ask him about it.
Box Blade Variations.
- Thread starter BufordBoone
- Start date
- Views: 15729
Next time I see my friend, i'll ask him about it.
DieselBound
Elite Member
Weight is your friend. This is about the heaviest one I've found:
FFC 240SD Box Scraper with Hydraulically actuated scarifier
No idea what they do for the scarifiers. I haven't run across anyone who is claiming forged.
FFC 240SD Box Scraper with Hydraulically actuated scarifier
No idea what they do for the scarifiers. I haven't run across anyone who is claiming forged.
boggen
Elite Member
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it has been awhile since doing my own research for box blades.
the main blade when pulling forward. there is cheapo blades that are straight, and then "curved blades" the curve blades help bring material up, and pile up inside the box blade better from understanding.
be careful when backing up with 3pt hitch, and using box blade, you can tear up the 3pt hitch. if you really do end up snagging something.
i would opt for a TNT (top and tilt) replacing top link with a hydraulic cylinder and/or replacing one or both side links with a hydrualic cylinder. so you can adjust box blade on the move from tractor seat. trying to adjust the heavier implements with turn buckles can be a rather difficult if implement is attached. it is double but still a lot of strength at times.
the box blades with gauge wheels, such as ATV box blades. and the wheels are more used to keep the pulling vehicle front tires on the ground. when box blade is lifted up.
exception to the gauge wheels above. the wheels that stick further back out behind the box blade. can help with filling in low spots and possibly help you feather out material better if no TNT on 3pt hitch. and when wheels are raised off ground, adding weight to help sink box blade in. in this instantance box blade and gauge wheels are more near a land plane setup.
if you are just grading generic box blade ya ok, if you are needing to physically run over high spots, pick the dirt up, then travel some distance to put the dirt down. then box blade may not be it. and looking for other type of equipment.
if you are looking at road maintenance / long rock / dirt driveway maintenance. see about a hitch on rear (welding it on), and pulling a water tank behind you with a spray boom. to spray water down to help reduce "dust storms"
they do make rear blades / back blades. that you can add side wings on to. to turn them into kinda of a box blade.
they do make some rear blades with has an extra bar for scraficers / teeth.
the do make rear blades, with exchange rear blade (blade itself) swappable between blade and scraficer teeth.
rear blades. can be had with "off set" ability were you can swing them all the way out to one side or the other. along with options of more aggresive tilt, for ditch creation. plus generic angle adjustment.
with everything above you have 3pt hitch direct hookup. to trailer / pull style hookups. each one having con's and pro's pending on what your primary usage will be. (will change per each thing you want to do)
check out below to websites and various equipment to see what is out there both new and used. to get an idea of things.
TractorHouse.com | Used Tractors For Sale: John Deere, Case IH, New Holland, Kubota. = agriculture equipment
MachineryTrader.com | Backhoes for sale, skid steers, excavators, dozers. = industrial equipment
the main blade when pulling forward. there is cheapo blades that are straight, and then "curved blades" the curve blades help bring material up, and pile up inside the box blade better from understanding.
be careful when backing up with 3pt hitch, and using box blade, you can tear up the 3pt hitch. if you really do end up snagging something.
i would opt for a TNT (top and tilt) replacing top link with a hydraulic cylinder and/or replacing one or both side links with a hydrualic cylinder. so you can adjust box blade on the move from tractor seat. trying to adjust the heavier implements with turn buckles can be a rather difficult if implement is attached. it is double but still a lot of strength at times.
the box blades with gauge wheels, such as ATV box blades. and the wheels are more used to keep the pulling vehicle front tires on the ground. when box blade is lifted up.
exception to the gauge wheels above. the wheels that stick further back out behind the box blade. can help with filling in low spots and possibly help you feather out material better if no TNT on 3pt hitch. and when wheels are raised off ground, adding weight to help sink box blade in. in this instantance box blade and gauge wheels are more near a land plane setup.
if you are just grading generic box blade ya ok, if you are needing to physically run over high spots, pick the dirt up, then travel some distance to put the dirt down. then box blade may not be it. and looking for other type of equipment.
if you are looking at road maintenance / long rock / dirt driveway maintenance. see about a hitch on rear (welding it on), and pulling a water tank behind you with a spray boom. to spray water down to help reduce "dust storms"
they do make rear blades / back blades. that you can add side wings on to. to turn them into kinda of a box blade.
they do make some rear blades with has an extra bar for scraficers / teeth.
the do make rear blades, with exchange rear blade (blade itself) swappable between blade and scraficer teeth.
rear blades. can be had with "off set" ability were you can swing them all the way out to one side or the other. along with options of more aggresive tilt, for ditch creation. plus generic angle adjustment.
with everything above you have 3pt hitch direct hookup. to trailer / pull style hookups. each one having con's and pro's pending on what your primary usage will be. (will change per each thing you want to do)
check out below to websites and various equipment to see what is out there both new and used. to get an idea of things.
TractorHouse.com | Used Tractors For Sale: John Deere, Case IH, New Holland, Kubota. = agriculture equipment
MachineryTrader.com | Backhoes for sale, skid steers, excavators, dozers. = industrial equipment
Catman8
Gold Member
With all do respect, I think the saying (weight is your friend) is misleading to the newbie, it implies that heavier is better, when selecting an implement you need to choose the correct size and weight for you specific size Tractor. A box blade that is to heavy for your tractor plus the added weight of the dirt will stop your tractor dead in its tracks. That's why you see manufacturers building implements specifically for compact and sub compact tractors because they know heavy implements don't work well with them, your tires just spin. Weight is your friend, but it needs to be the correct weight for your tractor. If it's too heavy it's not your friend.
DieselBound
Elite Member
... and always wear your seatbelt. Don't place ladder on frozen cow pies. Etc.. Yeah, I'd hope that people can refer to their manufacturer's recommended weights.
(even as a newbie with no exposure to this site I knew to do this)ASSUMING you are withing compliance of your tractor's rated capacities, weight on a box blade is key because you have no ability to apply down-pressure; this is especially important if trying to level really hard ground (and or are not using scarifiers).
TripleR
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As one who often says "weight is your friend" in regards to box scrapers, it is given with the understanding an owner knows enough to consult their owner's manual for design parameters.
Catman8
Gold Member
What I said was not to start a fight, but just a little friendly clarification to anyone new to tractors who might not understand their tractors parameters. So everyone take a deep breath and relax and don't take People's statements as a personal attack on you. I never said what you said was wrong, it is just not specific enough and to general. If you had soft soil on your property would weight be your friend?
MinnesotaEric
Super Member
I ran into my buddy at our local cultural center last night. After talking it over, my friend figures that it would be about $20-25 per scarifier of water jet time to cut each one out of 3/4 stock. My friend needed to see what he has for 3/4" steel and needs me to confirm we want it.
Anybody else interested?
xring100
Veteran Member
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Knowing you want to end up with a 100 hp tractor the woods gannon hsd and hxd is top of the line and the benchmark others copy. Cammond 4c4 4c5 and FFC 440 are the others i would consider for a tractor of that size.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/304549-gannon-88-hsd-box-scraper.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/304549-gannon-88-hsd-box-scraper.html
rustyshakelford
Veteran Member
Do you want them adjustable? The way I see me modifying mine is to get them cut the entire size of what they currently cut out. Weld a tab on each side of the opening and use a simple pin. It will get rid out of the weak spot from the notches and allow it to just be solid. I have no use for adjustability but if you do I think a hole cut in the middle of each one would be much stronger than the notches.
Brett
MinnesotaEric
Super Member
Waterjetting out of 80 or 100 series steel will solve the issue.
MinnesotaEric
Super Member
No further interest in getting scarifiers made?
