Box Blade Width?

[blucoondawg]

I'm wondering what your opinions are on the width of a box blade? I have the Kioti DK50SE the width is 63" with ag tires but I have R4s so I think a 72" blade will be the best option to cover the width of the tires, what I am wondering is does it pay to go up a size to the 84" models or would that not really be necessary, I will mainly be working on reapairing gravel driveways and repairing/installing lawns after septic installations and building projects. I would think the extra width may be handy in a ditching situation but other than that I don't see a need, and I wouldn't be doing much ditching anyways. I would also think the extra width would hinder the digging abilities of the blade unless it was substantially heavier to increase the psi on the scarifiers over the 72 inch model.

I am going to get a landscape rake next, that I was thinking of going wider.

Does my reasoning sound right or have you had other experiences?

 

[jenkinsph]

I have a 4520 with an 84" Gannon box blade (Frontier) and would expect the DK50 to handle it about the same. If I stick the rippers down it is a load on this size tractor, another 1500 lbs is really needed to stick it to the ground. That said I still prefer the 84" over a 72" for this size tractor, keeps the tractor farther away from walls.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just my opinion here, But I think that you would be best off with a nice 800-1000lb box blade that is 72"-78" wide. As far as the landscape rake, go with an 8 footer for sure.

It sounds like you are going to be doing this work professionally. If that is the case, you might want to consider a LPGS for maintaining those driveways and installing lawns. I believe that it would increase your productivity by quite a bit.

Something else to consider.

 

[jenkinsph]

Brian brings up a good point, for most smoothing jobs including lawn repairs after backhoe work I use my land plane grader scraper (lpgs) the most.

 

[rjwerth]

I have a 78" on my DK50 and think it is a very good size. I would not go smaller. Maybe bigger for some but certainly not smaller as this one sticks out only a few inches on each side.

 

[C4Ranch]

Same here. I have a 78". Would have got a 84" but found Gannon on Craigslist so grabbed it and am happy with it.

 

[blucoondawg]

Just my opinion here, But I think that you would be best off with a nice 800-1000lb box blade that is 72"-78" wide. As far as the landscape rake, go with an 8 footer for sure.

It sounds like you are going to be doing this work professionally. If that is the case, you might want to consider a LPGS for maintaining those driveways and installing lawns. I believe that it would increase your productivity by quite a bit.

Something else to consider.

Right now it will just be for maintaining properties my family owns but yes eventually I would like to get into doing it more professionally, I didn't consider a land plane because for one they are expensive and they don't allow you to drag any amount of soil, the repairs I am looking to do are on some pretty rough areas, I would think the box blade to be a better rough in tool. I was thinking rough it in with the Box Blade then finish it with the rake (if I figure out how to buy them both at the same time)

 

[jenkinsph]

Right now it will just be for maintaining properties my family owns but yes eventually I would like to get into doing it more professionally, I didn't consider a land plane because for one they are expensive and they don't allow you to drag any amount of soil, the repairs I am looking to do are on some pretty rough areas, I would think the box blade to be a better rough in tool. I was thinking rough it in with the Box Blade then finish it with the rake (if I figure out how to buy them both at the same time)

If you can weld consider building your own land plane.

Also if you have never tried a land plane to smooth up after ditch work don't assume it won't work well.

 

[blucoondawg]

well this isn't just ditch work, the excavator who installed the septic at my mothers house didn't really clean up at all or leave the excess dirt in a pile, which I would have preferred as I could have scooped it up with the loader and placed it as I wished, he simply spread it everywhere so not only do I have 2 sunken trenches where the drain field backfill settled and settling around the tank area but I also have a huge backyard with the excess fill haphazardly spread about, in spots I can see original sod, in other spots there is more than a foot of this junk fill dirt, so I want to be able to drag all this dirt around to fill the sunken trenches and level everything out then spread top soil which will have to be trucked in and dumped in a pile for me to work with, then rake and seed. From seeing how the planes work and watching video of them I don't think they are practical for moving this much dirt. I have backdragged much of it last fall with my loader but it is still pretty bad. The driveway is hard packed red granite with some nasty pot holes and one sunken spot from an old dry well which I caved in and filled with gravel last fall, I want to be able to rip it up and smooth it out I would actually like a good Harley rake but don't have those kind of funds right now nor enough work to justify the purchase.

 

[jenkinsph]

well this isn't just ditch work, the excavator who installed the septic at my mothers house didn't really clean up at all or leave the excess dirt in a pile, which I would have preferred as I could have scooped it up with the loader and placed it as I wished, he simply spread it everywhere so not only do I have 2 sunken trenches where the drain field backfill settled and settling around the tank area but I also have a huge backyard with the excess fill haphazardly spread about, in spots I can see original sod, in other spots there is more than a foot of this junk fill dirt, so I want to be able to drag all this dirt around to fill the sunken trenches and level everything out then spread top soil which will have to be trucked in and dumped in a pile for me to work with, then rake and seed. From seeing how the planes work and watching video of them I don't think they are practical for moving this much dirt. I have backdragged much of it last fall with my loader but it is still pretty bad. The driveway is hard packed red granite with some nasty pot holes and one sunken spot from an old dry well which I caved in and filled with gravel last fall, I want to be able to rip it up and smooth it out I would actually like a good Harley rake but don't have those kind of funds right now nor enough work to justify the purchase.

Well I have a good box blade and landplane and do this for a living. I have a pretty good idea what each implement will do. Again I would not make too many assumptions. A land plane will knock down a 1' pile of dirt in a heart beat. I am sure I could use either a box blade or a land plane for this work, I am only pointing out that your assumptions that a land plane will only do finish work is incorrect.

 

[blucoondawg]

Most of the planes I see have angled blades, how well does that work on a lawn, I would think that would tend to pull the material to one side and create a crown which would be ok for a road or driveway but wouldn't straight blades be best for leveling a lawn? I suppose the angle may help the blades cut into hard soil as well.

 

[jenkinsph]

If you notice my land planes are straight blade not angled. My main use is for lawn and pasture smoothing, using a land plane reduces the time spent to get a field with bumps and dips straightened out.

There have been many discussions on threads about the straight vs. angled blades, I don't think it is a big deal. For my use the straight blade works well for both gravel roads as well as pastures and lawns. If you need to crown a road or ditch the sides get a rear blade. Land planes with angled blades don't move the gravel enough to build a crown properly.

All these implements have their place, the basic ones I use are the box blade, land plane, rear blade and landscape rake. I have small ones for the little x749 and larger ones for the 4520 and they all play a part in fixing up lawns and pastures. Just understand while there is some overlap in what these implements will do it is better to have the correct tool for the job if you have a frequent need for it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would like to add that as far as LPGS not moving much dirt, if the ground is damp, not wet, but damp, like perfect working moisture, my LPGS will move roughly 3-3.5 cubic yards of material at a time. I would say that that is about 3 times what I can move with my box blade. If a person was to put a tail gate on their LPGS, then a large amount of material would be able to be moved no mater what the conditions.

Now that amount may only be for my scraper, since it has 22" tall sides, is 7' wide and 8' long and that is not very common, but for people to think that you can't be moving very much material with them is incorrect. As far as material moving sideways because of the angled blades, yes, about 1/2"- 1" of sideways movement per pass, and that is only with smaller amount of material. If that amount of side movement is a problem, then you would need to have straight blades.

If you notice my land planes are straight blade not angled. My main use is for lawn and pasture smoothing, using a land plane reduces the time spent to get a field with bumps and dips straightened out.

There have been many discussions on threads about the straight vs. angled blades, I don't think it is a big deal. For my use the straight blade works well for both gravel roads as well as pastures and lawns. If you need to crown a road or ditch the sides get a rear blade. Land planes with angled blades don't move the gravel enough to build a crown properly.

All these implements have their place, the basic ones I use are the box blade, land plane, rear blade and landscape rake. I have small ones for the little x749 and larger ones for the 4520 and they all play a part in fixing up lawns and pastures. Just understand while there is some overlap in what these implements will do it is better to have the correct tool for the job if you have a frequent need for it.

I would think that anyone that does a lot of dirt work would have those 4 implements. Each has it's purpose and makes life so much easier when used for their intended purpose.

 

[RDrancher]

Jenkins is correct. The angled blades don't move a whole lot of material to one side, certainly not enough to establish a crown. I use mine to shape my wife's arena and it's pretty dang flat. It's a dirt arena, not sand.

 

[RDrancher]

I see that Brian was typing while I was. Yep, a land plane will move a lot of material, especially if you travel slow enough for it to collect. The only thing that keeps me from using a land plane for all of the gravel driveways I do is the length of the land plane tends to ruin my quest for perfect edges when swinging a curve. I'd also like to have a heavier land plane with hydraulic or handle actuated scarifiers.

 

[JRP]

Jenkins I have an M6800 so have 60+ HP. I want a landscape rake to collect tree branch parts. Was thinking the 1 1/4" x 3/8" tines wold be better suited and was considering making mine, 96" wide. Your opinion please?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I see that Brian was typing while I was. Yep, a land plane will move a lot of material, especially if you travel slow enough for it to collect. The only thing that keeps me from using a land plane for all of the gravel driveways I do is the length of the land plane tends to ruin my quest for perfect edges when swinging a curve. I'd also like to have a heavier land plane with hydraulic or handle actuated scarifiers.

John, isn't that what a landscape rake is for?? I know I know, time is money. :sigh:

 

[RDrancher]

John, isn't that what a landscape rake is for?? I know I know, time is money. :sigh:

Aren't those things for gathering sticks? I guess I could use one to make pretty lines like a Japanese zen garden...

 

[nybirdman]

I just did a 150 drive way with a six ft. box blade.Had to remove about 6 in.of sod/top soil.In four wheel drive with the scarifiers down and a full box I had to put the L4240 in low range.I can pull my two bottom plow with ease in medium range.Even with my 8ft.snow plow medium is used.Bottom line a box blade can have a lot of drag.

 

[jenkinsph]

Jenkins I have an M6800 so have 60+ HP. I want a landscape rake to collect tree branch parts. Was thinking the 1 1/4" x 3/8" tines wold be better suited and was considering making mine, 96" wide. Your opinion please?

JRP,
I worked over an old property that was an apple orchard with sizes from twigs to limbs. Had to get it clean enough to laser level so can't have much debris. I used my landscape rake with every other tine removed, it worked okay but not excellent. Lots of small pieces slip through the 3" spacing. What I did to solve this problem was to make a second pass with a pine needle rake to get the little stuff. The combination of the two worked pretty good.

I mention the above because one of the things I want to build this winter is a rake similar to the pine straw type with round tines about 1/2" diameter on 2" spacing. The problem I have is that the wide tines will hold too much dirt if you make a pass over 50 to 75 ft. If your travel distances while raking are kept short enough then you could use the heavier 1 1/4" tines. Your tractor should not have a problem with an 8' rake at any rate. I would be careful using heavy tines on good grass areas as it can tear it up.

Everything Attachments makes a nice pine straw rake and has pictures and pricing on their site.