Traction Box Blades

[Marveltone]

Over the three years I've had my box blade, I've learned the key to smoothness is to keep it slow, plus one hand on the steering wheel and one hand on the lift, so those micro-adjustments can be made at a moment's notice. I look at it as a patience exercise. I feel the dreaded speed bumps are sometimes a product of running too fast to be able to make the proper adjustments before it's too late.

The issue of implement size vs. tractor size can also be addressed by patience. For example, my Ford 1510 only weighs around 3200 lbs with the loader attached, turf tires and only 22 engine hp. I'm puling a 418 lbs, 62" box blade. It would be easy to overwhelm the tractor by extending the rippers and dropping the blade like a bad habit and trying to dig a hole to China in one fell swoop. I don't believe that's always the best way to use them. Shallower ripping passes followed by scooping out the loose dirt can yield excellent results in lightweight, low hp tractors, while keeping a blade wide enough to still cover your tracks. Yes, it takes longer, but the results are worth it.

Joe

 

[ovrszd]

Good points Joe. The secret to success with a BB is patience. Repeat passes. Little at a time. I believe that to be true with any ground engagement leveling tool. I run a road grader. When working dirt I make a lot of passes that the untrained eye would question. Success is the finished product and has nothing to do with pass count.

 

[/pine]

Just a realistic observation based on my experience...

Regardless of size...

If you are using a box blade for grading, shaping, etc. etc... and not just "maintenance"...to achieve a professional level of efficiency you absolutely have to have hydraulic top and tilt...

IMO... there is no single (non powered, drag) implement that can do more labor saving work than a box blade with scarifiers...but without the ability to change the x and y attitudes on the fly you will never realize the full utility of a box blade...

 

[streamin]

If you are using a box blade for grading, shaping, etc. etc... and not just "maintenance"...to achieve a professional level of efficiency you absolutely have to have hydraulic top and tilt...

IMO... there is no single (non powered, drag) implement that can do more labor saving work than a box blade with scarifiers...but without the ability to change the x and y attitudes on the fly you will never realize the full utility of a box blade...

I agree, My first tractor did not have tnt and I got it with the second one. A must have IMO.
Question: my new tractor is a bit wider than 6 ft, I believe 75 inches. I got a deal on the 6 ft box blade but haven't tried it out much yet. So does anyone think that 3 inches is enough to go to a 7 ft boxblade?

 

[jenkinsph]

Just a realistic observation based on my experience...

Regardless of size...

If you are using a box blade for grading, shaping, etc. etc... and not just "maintenance"...to achieve a professional level of efficiency you absolutely have to have hydraulic top and tilt...

IMO... there is no single (non powered, drag) implement that can do more labor saving work than a box blade with scarifiers...but without the ability to change the x and y attitudes on the fly you will never realize the full utility of a box blade...

And add hydraulic scarifiers to that and you don't need to leave the seat.

 

[streamin]

And add hydraulic scarifiers to that and you don't need to leave the seat.

Yea, then you would have to get a 3rd remote, gotta draw the line somewhere, lol

 

[FTG-05]

Over the three years I've had my box blade, I've learned the key to smoothness is to keep it slow, plus one hand on the steering wheel and one hand on the lift, so those micro-adjustments can be made at a moment's notice. I look at it as a patience exercise. I feel the dreaded speed bumps are sometimes a product of running too fast to be able to make the proper adjustments before it's too late.

The issue of implement size vs. tractor size can also be addressed by patience. For example, my Ford 1510 only weighs around 3200 lbs with the loader attached, turf tires and only 22 engine hp. I'm puling a 418 lbs, 62" box blade. It would be easy to overwhelm the tractor by extending the rippers and dropping the blade like a bad habit and trying to dig a hole to China in one fell swoop. I don't believe that's always the best way to use them. Shallower ripping passes followed by scooping out the loose dirt can yield excellent results in lightweight, low hp tractors, while keeping a blade wide enough to still cover your tracks. Yes, it takes longer, but the results are worth it.

Joe

Funny you should mention that. I have a one mile gravel road to maintain (I'm the only one of four houses that has a tractor) and I've found that I can do a much better job by a) going slower and b) not taking such a big cut per pass. When I slowed down and decreased the "bite" of the front edge of the BB, the results I got were much better.

I plan to design and install some gauge wheels in the next couple weeks, so I hope that helps as well. 90% is ok, it's the two or three 50 yard areas that turn to mud that are the PIA to work.

Thanks,

 

[jenkinsph]

Funny you should mention that. I have a one mile gravel road to maintain (I'm the only one of four houses that has a tractor) and I've found that I can do a much better job by a) going slower and b) not taking such a big cut per pass. When I slowed down and decreased the "bite" of the front edge of the BB, the results I got were much better.

I plan to design and install some gauge wheels in the next couple weeks, so I hope that helps as well. 90% is ok, it's the two or three 50 yard areas that turn to mud that are the PIA to work.

Thanks,

I have a lot of time operating box blades and it does help to slow down to a speed where you can control the blade as needed. In your case maintaining a one mile road a land plane grader blade would be better than adding wheels to a box blade. If you can weld you can build a land plane for about $110 /ft so a 6' would run about $700.

I am adding wheels to my box blade to use with a laser and the cost for wheels and hydraulics is more than the $700 above. For most people I would think that having a separate land plane to drag the drives and roads would be a good choice.

 

[C4Ranch]

Agree, keep it slow. I would rather take 1-2 passes at 2 mph than 4-5 passes at 4mph!

Currently running 78" Gannon 4x2 with hydraulic rippers, triple remotes and TNT. Great to be able to move 1.2k#s of steel front to back and tilt with a single finger!

 

[ovrszd]

My buddy that absolutely can't run a BB bought a Land Plane last year. He's all happy now. Works great for long stretches of driveway maintenance.

 

[FTG-05]

I have a lot of time operating box blades and it does help to slow down to a speed where you can control the blade as needed. In your case maintaining a one mile road a land plane grader blade would be better than adding wheels to a box blade. If you can weld you can build a land plane for about $110 /ft so a 6' would run about $700.

I am adding wheels to my box blade to use with a laser and the cost for wheels and hydraulics is more than the $700 above. For most people I would think that having a separate land plane to drag the drives and roads would be a good choice.

Great: another implement I now need to buy/build!

Just for S&Gs: Are there any good freeware plans here for a home built land plane grader?

Thanks,

 

[ovrszd]

Here's one I've gathered, probably on TBN.

 

[FTG-05]

Thanks!

ETA: Question about the 2nd pic/drawing: Is the length of the grader 4'-6" " or 4'-6' ? In other words 4 1/2 feet or 4 to 6 feet long?

Thanks,

 

[jenkinsph]

Gordon Gould is a frequent poster here and a good person to get advice from on grading too. Those are his plans for a land plane he has built and used for a few years with great success.


I have built two land planes so far, one is 4' wide for my garden tractor and is appropriate for the small compacts and the other is an 8' suitable for larger compacts and small utility tractors. On my land planes I use 6" wide x 5/8ths" reversible grader blades which are about half the cost of the build. Look for the steel drop piles at the large fabrications shops and steel yards to get a good deal on the steel. I rarely buy any steel at full price anymore but most structural steel I see is selling for fifty to sixty cents a pound. I have a steel yard that sells drops for half price and another powdercoater/fabricator selling two acres of steel for fifteen cents a pound. I am a regular customer at the powdercoater.:thumbsup:

Here are pics of my land planes,

 

[ovrszd]

Never having built one, only dragged one an hour, take this for what it's worth. I think if I were building one it would have the cutters angled in opposite directions. Drag the material to one side, dump over the top, then drag to the other side and dump over the top. Most you buy will have the cutters angled, both the same direction.

I've got the material to build one and have access to road grader cutters, just don't have a need for the tool. Still wanna build one though..... It's an addiction I'm working on......

 

[jenkinsph]

Never having built one, only dragged one an hour, take this for what it's worth. I think if I were building one it would have the cutters angled in opposite directions. Drag the material to one side, dump over the top, then drag to the other side and dump over the top. Most you buy will have the cutters angled, both the same direction.

I've got the material to build one and have access to road grader cutters, just don't have a need for the tool. Still wanna build one though..... It's an addiction I'm working on......

Mine are set straight and flush with the skids, works great smoothing out pastures with our sandy loam soil. With a straight blade set up tilting the plane forward allows for a uniform and even depth across the full width of cut, if the blades are angled then the leading edge will bite and the trailing edge is higher making an uneven cut. Might help with a crown but not what I wan't for pasture and lawn smoothing.

Not trying to tell an experienced grader operator what to do but I am sure you know the difference between having new blades on a road grader so why put old ones on a new landplane and expect good results? To my way of thinking the grader blades are the most important part of the tool.

I have had a tool addiction too and only recently recognized it for what it is. Never had the tools as a kid when I had the energy to use them, later in life I bought what I wanted. Now wish I had more time and energy to use them all.

 

[ovrszd]

I have had a tool addiction too and only recently recognized it for what it is. Never had the tools as a kid when I had the energy to use them, later in life I bought what I wanted. Now wish I had more time and energy to use them all.

Ain't that the truth!!!!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm pretty sure, that is how is ends up working out for most of us.