Box Scraper How to/pointers?

[_RaT_]

I have a Gearmore. Don't remember the model number. I was considering the Gannon, but it was about $400 more and weighed in at about 1200lbs. The weight has been a great asset. My L3830 handles it easily. The Gannon has a better hydraulic ripper setup.

 

[Libertine]

Freds:

<font color="blue"> . . . so I don't have a bunch of weed mounds sitting around when I am done levelling the field. </font>

Well, if you don't want the piles, and you can't burn it, run it through a big chipper & reduce it to chips. You can usually rent good size Vemeers (or similar) pretty reasonable & they'll chew up about anything less than 5"-6" in diameter.

JEH

 

[Libertine]

Rat:

Never heard of those brands around here, but you're from California so that doesn't mean anything. Anyway, the weight's certainly an asset for hard ground. Unsure of what my rollover weight is, but it's substantially more than a straight box but probably less than yours. No doubt the L3830 would handle it - that KUB about the same size as my TC40. In fact that model was one I seriously considered before I bought my NH.

JEH

PS Seem to recall asking you before about your new governor (would he win). How's he holding up now that he's been in awhile?

 

[_RaT_]

Your right, Gearmore is out of California. I'm not sure just what the details are and where you get them. My understanding is they are not the manufactuer. I looked at the TC 40D and JD 4410 proir to my purchase, both fine tractors.

The Governor has made life interesting and quite frankly, a lot more fun. He's easily accessable, has charisma and seems to work well with folks regardless of party. Some of my friends see him around town at the local (Sacramento) restaurants. He insists on entering at the front door of the restaurant so folks who want to greet him can. He's very likeable. Rat... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[theboman]

Let it sit and rot a spell. In a month or so turn it over and let it rot some more. After three months find some more weeds, sticks etc and toss on the ground beside the pile and place the old pile on the new pile... it's a never ending cycle of rot and heat to make compost. It'll get good and black and nasty feeling and smelling and that's ready to use as compost. You'll also start to see lots of earthworms in this food hotel for critters.


</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I just started playing around with my BB. I brush hogged a small area and then went over it with the BB. I now have a pile of weeds about 7' high and 6' at the base that I moved out of the area I am trying to level. With the rain and what not I'll bet it's got a pretty good compost effect going.
So... my question is, what am I supposed to do with this pile? If I get my area all levelled out should I spread the weeds back onto it? Will they act like a mulch? Is this where discs would have been the preferred method because they would turn the weeds in with the soil?

Thanks for any help.

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif )</font>

 

[LoganWildman]

This talk about hydraulic scarifiers gave me a thought that I'd like to get some opinions on.

Why couldn't a guy take a piece of square tubing 1/8" wall and weld the scarifiers to it then take a small cylinder to control the raising and lowering? I don't think it would take much to fabricate and this combined with a hydraulic top link would really be useful on a BB.

 

[_RaT_]

You could, the biggest thing would be designing the lock mechanism that pins the ripper bar down. I have a 1.25" solid pin that goes into some 1.5" steel. It takes a beating. The cylinder could not even begin to handle the loads put on it by the rippers so you really need a means to pin it.

 

[LoganWildman]

My BB has the rippers that slide up and down in a piece of square tube like this one KK Box blade
so I'm thinking weld the tube across the rippers towards the bottom and weld cylinder brackets so that the cylinder is mounted vertically.

 

[_RaT_]

The issue I see with that is it would be difficult to get the ripper out and replaced when they break. I can break even forged rippers with my tractor. On my boxblade, the rippers attach much the same to a 4" square tube and slide up and down with 2 notches in each ripper to set the depth individually, the entire 72" long square tube pivots and gets up and out of the way. It also allows me to clean the rippers of weeds and branches very easily.

 

[udrugby]

all - thanks for the advice, I got my area leveled with the box blade. The swing set is up and the kids are happy. Man this sure beats grading with the fel. I found that making the top link longer dug more. Thanks again. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[BrettW]

Everyone else has said making the top link shorter makes it dig in more, which makes sense as it should force the front edge down. Correct?

 

[jinman]

Brett, when talking about a boxblade, you have three digging surfaces: Scarifiers, inner blade, rear blade. When you just say "digging," it's a litle vague if you don't say what part you are talking about. Certainly, if you shorten the toplink, your scarifiers will dig in more; however, your inside cutting blade may lift completely off the ground and not cut at all. The same goes for the rear blade.

Tilting the box by lengthening your toplink will get the inside blade sitting at an angle to dig in until the sides of the box become skids. In very loose soil, the sides will just bury up and you'll find you cut so much you'll quickly have a full boxblade. When you are blading in reverse, the rear blade becomes a mini-dozer or grader blade. Again, extending the toplink will cause it to dig in. The type of soil and the size of your tractor will really determine what is the best angle to use for all the different jobs you can do with your box. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[udrugby]

inner blade dug more with top link extended.

 

[MicroPilot]

OK, I'm contemplating purchasing a box blade. Actually it's pretty much a sure thing, but I've got some questions about the different styles and terminology that I have ran into.

Does anyone have a "roll over" box blade. Here is a link to the Bush Hog manual for theirs. Bush Hog Roll Over Box Blade Manual

What is the advantae to this type of BB?

This manual says "Place the tractor rockshaft control in “position control” (non-floating) for attaching and detaching the implement." Is this just another term for the 3PT position control?

A couple of there BB's have a "Swinging Tailgate for improved performance". What is this, and why is it desireable?

Thanks,

Robert

 

[MicroPilot]

bump

 

[jinman]

I think the rollover boxblade is not all that popular because with many of today's tractors, it's hard to reach the control handle from the operator's seat. I know I could not get anywhere near the handle because my fuel tank sits behind me between my ROPs uprights. The other thing is that its just not needed. With a normal boxblade you can do almost as much without the extra complexity or expense.

The hinged rear blade allows the front blade to dig in more. Think of the inner and outer blades forming an upside-down "V" shape. If you are cutting with the inside blade, the rear blade will tend to float the box as loose material builds up in front of it. If the blade is hinged, it will rotate upwards and not float the front blade. Most hinged rear blades can be pinned in the down position if you want the float action for smoothing.

 

[MicroPilot]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...With a normal boxblade you can do almost as much without the extra complexity or expense (of a rollover blade).)</font>

Yea, my dealer quoted me $575 for a Bushhog SBX box blade. He didn't have any roll overs but looked it up and the price was $1,500 !!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The hinged rear blade allows the front blade to dig in more. Think of the inner and outer blades forming an upside-down "V" shape. If you are cutting with the inside blade, ... it will rotate upwards and not float the front blade. Most hinged rear blades can be pinned in the down position if you want the float action for smoothing. )</font>

That makes more sense. I was thinking that both the front and rear blades were hinged.

Thanks for the info Jinman!!!!

 

[JRP]

The weight of a box blade is very important. Get a heavy one. Of course make sure your tractor can pick it up.

The box adds traction when it is up. You loose that benefit when you lower the box. You will find better traction with loaded tires.

 

[MicroPilot]

I believe that the Bush Hog brand box blades are some of the heaviest out there. They are built with some THICK steel. The TSC box blade looks like sheet metal compared to the BushHog, of course the Bush Hog is ~$230 more expensive!!!

Hawkline is another brand I looked at. Looked very nice, and had thick steel. Unforunately their web site and brochures only have very limited specs, no wieght, metal gauges etc.. I was quoted $384 for a 5' at a local Mom and Pop Tractor supply/Hardware/Feed store/Deli. I'm heavily leaning to this one as it is manufactured local to me and would be supporting a local business as well.