Broken Wheel Bolt

[TIDE HSV]

I don't agree with you on this. Usually a bolt that breaks is a little distorted at the break. It's far easier to take it out the way it went in. Now your bolt might be an exception.

That is a good point. There probably will be a bulge where the bolt broke. As I posted above, I have a high torque, low RPM drill which should be better than what I've used in the past. I installed a larger axle on a camper a year or so ago, which required relocating the springs and drilling through a lot of 3/8" inch steel. That drill made it tolerable. Didn't even know I needed it until then. Should be perfect for this job. Let me be sure I understand you. You think the left-hand drill bit will catch in the bolt and pull it out the same way an easy out would? I assume that's it, since a hole drilled with either twist is just that - a hole...

 

[whis]

yes left hand bit will sometimes back one out, can also take small punch and turn it out if its not stuck bad

 

[TIDE HSV]

yes left hand bit will sometimes back one out, can also take small punch and turn it out if its not stuck bad

I hate to appear dense, but why on earth use a slick punch or drift when an easy out is basically just a punch with left hand flutes which have been sharpened to bite in the drilled hole in the bolt. IMO, this bolt is stuck thoroughly enough that a left hand drill is going to give me the same thing a standard bit will - a smooth hole. There's no way a left hand HS bit is going to "stick" in the hole and back out the bolt by itself, just not enough leverage and bearing area. I think we may as well close this one down...

 

[SPYDERLK]

I hate to appear dense, but why on earth use a slick punch or drift when an easy out is basically just a punch with left hand flutes which have been sharpened to bite in the drilled hole in the bolt. IMO, this bolt is stuck thoroughly enough that a left hand drill is going to give me the same thing a standard bit will - a smooth hole. There's no way a left hand HS bit is going to "stick" in the hole and back out the bolt by itself, just not enough leverage and bearing area. I think we may as well close this one down...

With the drift punch you dont have to drill a hole. Attacking with the punch at an angle and off center, once you develop a divit, you would be surprised at the torque imparted by each blow. The torque and shock to the bolt often cause a little turn. Then youve got it.

 

[TIDE HSV]

With the drift punch you dont have to drill a hole. Attacking with the punch at an angle and off center, once you develop a divit, you would be surprised at the torque imparted by each blow. The torque and shock to the bolt often cause a little turn. Then youve got it.

I actually have done that before with larger bolts. I'm just not sure there's enough room to work with - it's an 8mm bolt. However, I do have a couple of pretty small prick punches, so I may give it a try. I just don't want to booger the threads and make the problem worse. That really has a lot better chance than a left hand drill bit...

 

[powerscol]

First where can you get there reverse drill bits? I asked at Home Depot (yes my mistake) but hardware manager gave me a shrug.

I have used easy outs. but usually find I need to drill a bigger/deeper hole to get a good bight. I have an impact driver that you hit with a hammer to get things to move (in or out). I have used it with some success on frozen bolts, but have broken easy outs in the process. I do suggest that before you start your removal process, heat the bolt as best possible with a propane torch - just get it hot, not cherry, and hit it with a 50/50 mixture of WD40 and ATF fluid (synthetic is best) from both sides Give it several soakings as it cools down, then go after it with your preferred removal process. Several hours or overnight soak is best. My impact tool is from Harbor Freight and has worked well for 30 + years.

Hope this helps...... PS Keep thumb out of the way before hitting impact driver :thumbsup:

Also wear safety glasses.

 

[TIDE HSV]

The soaking with silicone or Liquid Wrench is a good idea. Yes, I have a hand impact wrench also, which I'd thought about using to back it out. It's a 3/8" drive, so I'd need to get a 8mm stepdown for it to work. If it'd work, it'd probably be the easiest of everything suggested so far. I use glasses, but I also use a ball peen (soft head) hammer, to minimize chips. A lot of people don't know the difference between a hammer for driving nails or a ball peen or masonry hammer. A lot of eyes have been put out by chips off carpentry hammers...

 

[pmsmechanic]

TIDE HSV just to answer your question. Yes when a left hand drill bit catches an edge on a broken bolt it's usually enough to spin the bolt remains right out. I usually try to drill about 1/4 of an inch deep and then slowly move the drill to one side to help the bit catch on the bolt. Just be careful you don't break the bit off in the hole as then there is a worse problem. I should have explained the procedure a bit better.

 

[TIDE HSV]

TIDE HSV just to answer your question. Yes when a left hand drill bit catches an edge on a broken bolt it's usually enough to spin the bolt remains right out. I usually try to drill about 1/4 of an inch deep and then slowly move the drill to one side to help the bit catch on the bolt. Just be careful you don't break the bit off in the hole as then there is a worse problem. I should have explained the procedure a bit better.

I've broken off bits before and it's game over, since the bit itself is hardened steel. There are several other methods mentioned above, all of which I'm familiar with. I think I'll pass on the left twist HS drill bits...

 

[Mace Canute]

Since we're tossing out methods to deal with this problem and since it's a 2 WD...take the wheel off and then, so you can easily get to the backside, take the hub off if it's shrouded while on the tractor. It's likely to have a bit of the bolt sticking through on the backside. You can drill it out from the backside with a regular right hand twist bit and hope it catches and screws it out or you could cut a slot in the end of the bolt if it sticks out a ways from the hub and try a big screw driver that has a hex on the shank that you can put a wrench on for leverage. Vise Grips might also work but will chew up the shank. If the threads don't have a buggered up spot where it broke try to screw it out the back side. If it does have a buggered up spot wire wheel the threads first, lube them and then try to screw it out the front side.

 

[TIDE HSV]

It's a 2 WD...take the wheel off and then, so you can easily get to the backside, take the hub off if it's shrouded while on the tractor. It's likely to have a bit of the bolt sticking through on the backside. You can drill it out from the backside with a regular right hand twist bit and hope it catches and screws it out or you could cut a slot in the end of the bolt if it sticks out a ways from the hub and try a big screw driver that has a hex on the shank that you can put a wrench on for leverage. Vise Grips might also work but will chew up the shank. Wire wheel the threads first, lube them and then try to turn it so it backs out the way it was threaded in if it has a buggered up spot where it broke or if it's ok try to screw it out the back side of the hub.

There's nothing sticking out the backside and nothing sticking out the front and getting the hub off would be a PITA. I don't know if you're familiar or not with a hand impact driver, but their bits are hardened, and, if I can get a step down to 8mm, they work by more or less cutting their own slot...

 

[Mace Canute]

Wow TIDE HSV! You're fast! I just barely got my reply posted, and before I finished editing it you had already read it and answered! :laughing:

Well, I'm sorry my suggestions won't really help you. Broken off bolts can be a real bearcat to get out sometimes.

 

[Xfaxman]

A left hand bit can remove a broken bolt. :thumbsup:

But not always.

 

[JRobyn]

A couple of reasons that a left-hand twist drill bit is preferable to an Easy-out:

- LH bit cutting flutes put quite a bit of torque on the broken bolt in the direction needed to remove it, often enough that it will back out.
- LH bit generates a good bit of heat right in the insides of the broken bolt which helps with loosening.
- If you are going to drill a hole for an Easy-out anyway, why NOT try a LH bit?
- It is common (in my experience) that the taper of an Easy-out will swell a stuck bolt and make it even that much more stuck.
- It is common (in my experience) that the hardened Easy-out will snap off leaving you with a much worse problem.

JMHO

- Jay

 

[whis]

just throwing out ways to get it out if you don't like them don't use them, in the time this has been discussed you could have already drilled your hole and broke your ease out and then it would be game over

 

[TIDE HSV]

For some reason, I stopped getting email notices of replies and it rained every day last week, making it impossible to work on it, since it's under a tarp in the open. I finally got the bolt out with a drilled hole and an easy out. I actually have several and the one I used was one which has a shoulder like a HS bit. If it works, it works with a much smaller, shallower hole than a pointier easy-out. It was still about 1.5 hours work, because, if the bolt weren't hardened, it certainly behaved like it. It was tough! When I get the chance, I'll post the pix...