Brush Hog question: lean backwards?

[jbrumberg]

My sense is that as the RC moves forward over the "obstruction" the forward travel takes the blades beyond the sharpened area of the blade itself. Jay

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'm not sure I understand that part...the sharpened side of the blade will always make contact first no matter what the setup is. The rotation would have to reverse for the dull side to lead. What did you mean by that?

My sense is that as the RC moves forward over the "obstruction" the forward travel takes the blades beyond the sharpened area of the blade itself. Jay

Yes, and then again as the obstruction starts to pass out the back of the mower the dull area hits it 1st, then the sharp area hits it successively lower each time it comes around. Even with something sharp there is always the tendency for it to deflect to the area of least resistance [over the top in this case] when cutting near an edge.
larry

 

[schmism]

i run mine near on level. if anything i might have a slightly nose heavy setting (higher in the rear, but it would be meausred in 1/8's of an inch)

 

[john_bud]

The dealer just proved that salesmen often know very little about the stuff they are selling!!!

jb

 

[Bird]

There are several good answers in this thread. To quote from the Bush Hog Squealer Operator's Manual:

3-2 ADJUSTING FOR WORK​

The cutter should be operated at the highest position
which will give desired cutting results. This will help
prevent the blades from striking the ground, reducing
blade wear and undue strain on the machine. For
best results under heavier cutting conditions, always
tilt the cutter approximately 2 inches (51mm) lower in
the front. This tilt decreases horsepower requirements
and increases potential ground speed. When
fine shredding is desired, adjust cutter deck level or
slightly lower in the rear. This will keep the foliage
under cutter until thoroughly shredded. More power​

is required for shredding.

In other words, you can have it higher in the front, higher in the rear, or level depending on what results you want and how fast you want to go.

 

[triumphtbone1]

My Land Pride manual instructs the owner to maintain the front of the mower at a slight angle which places it lower than the rear......and of course level left to right in that lower position.

 

[Soundguy]

I'm not sure I understand that part...the sharpened side of the blade will always make contact first no matter what the setup is. The rotation would have to reverse for the dull side to lead. What did you mean by that?

I'm pretty sure he is refering to the non sharpened portion of the blade .. IE.. take a 2' blade.. 6-8" might be the sharp section.. then it's round back till the mounting hole....

soundguy

 

[Farmerford]

I proved Larry correct a few years ago. I was clearing pine and hardwood saplings up to about 3" diameter and set the front of the mower about 3" above the rear. My theory was that the stump would be shorter because the "rear" blade would only be cutting off the top 2-3" of the stump and would make a lower and cleaner cut.

The stumps were a bit shorter, though not nearly as much as I expected. But there seemed to be no harm done, so I left the front set higher than the back.

After a few days of cutting, one blade broke at the bolt hole, and it was clear from examining the break that it had started on the bottom of the blade, which indicated that upward force on the free end of the blade caused it. On that particular mower, the blade carrier barely extended beyond the end of the bolt hole, so the upward force on the end of the blade was highly leveraged on the end of the carrier, and the clearance between the carrier and blade bolt allowed the blade to twist upward, putting stress right across the bolt hole.

That is one of only a few blades I have broken in many years of mowing, and the only one that broke in that manner. It seems pretty clear that it was caused by the upward force of the stumps on the blade as it swung at the rear.

Shortly after that I mounted stump grinder teeth on the underside of the blades, and they worked well. The stumps were flat on top and about 1" above the ground.

 

[RobJ]

I proved Larry correct a few years ago. I was clearing pine and hardwood saplings up to about 3" diameter and set the front of the mower about 3" above the rear. My theory was that the stump would be shorter because the "rear" blade would only be cutting off the top 2-3" of the stump and would make a lower and cleaner cut.

The stumps were a bit shorter, though not nearly as much as I expected. But there seemed to be no harm done, so I left the front set higher than the back.

After a few days of cutting, one blade broke at the bolt hole, and it was clear from examining the break that it had started on the bottom of the blade, which indicated that upward force on the free end of the blade caused it. On that particular mower, the blade carrier barely extended beyond the end of the bolt hole, so the upward force on the end of the blade was highly leveraged on the end of the carrier, and the clearance between the carrier and blade bolt allowed the blade to twist upward, putting stress right across the bolt hole.

That is one of only a few blades I have broken in many years of mowing, and the only one that broke in that manner. It seems pretty clear that it was caused by the upward force of the stumps on the blade as it swung at the rear.

Shortly after that I mounted stump grinder teeth on the underside of the blades, and they worked well. The stumps were flat on top and about 1" above the ground.

Whatever!!

The manual clearly states if you want stuff chopped up more, angle it down in the rear to keep it under the deck longer. Makes sense to me and it works for me.

Perhaps 3" trees had something to do with a broken blade.