Brush Hog Setup

[Piperflyer]

What is the proper way to set up your brush hog (rotary mower) for cutting? What tricks if any are there to brush hogging?

 

[RickB]

To shred material into short pieces, set the rear of the deck a little lower than the front. To cut tall grass and get it out from under the deck (& use less power and fuel), set the front a little lower than the rear. To do a better job of picking up the previous pass wheel track, travel so the blades are travelling rearward on the side of the machine towards the mowed grass.

 

[Bird]

Good concise answer, RickB.

 

[jinman]

In addition to RickB's good advice, I'd like to add a couple of things about the hookup to the tractor.

1. The toplink should be adjusted so it is in the midrange of the float mechanism on the cutter. This is assuming you have a float device. It may be an elongated slot. If so, set the toplink length for the middle of the slot.

2. Each time before cutting, make sure the tailwheel is greased and all bolts on it are secure and it has a good pin to hold it in the pivot. Also check that all the bolts on its A-frame are tight and secure.

3. Check that your lower link pin are tight and that all the bolts on the mower's 3PH A-frame are tight and secure. Do not assume that the mower was assembled perfectly by the factory or dealer.

4. Check the gearbox for oil and that the bolts on it to the frame of the cutter are tight so the gearbox will not move.

5. Check that the slip clutch is adjusted properly if you have one. If you have shearpins, make sure you have a few spares and a hammer, punch, and adjustable wrench and pliers are a good thing to carry for changing shearpins.

6. Walk the area you are going to cut so you know where obstructions may be. If it's too big to walk or drive over, be very cautious the first time you cut it.

That's about it for what I can think of off the top of my head.

 

[jbrumberg]

Excellent and "to the topic advise". The only thing I can think of is that if mowing with the FEL attached- keep the bucket low. Jay

 

[kebo]

I would add it's always good advice to wear eye protection, gloves, and hearing protection. See the thread on hearing protection under the Owning/Operating forum. Also, don't forget the seatbelt!!

 

[shakin]

i would have to agree with the safety equipment i am constantly looking over my shoulder at the hog these thins throw stuff everywhere even the chains or rubber guards. also remember hog make very good rock breakers i found that out this week the pieces go everywhere.

 

[RickB]

I think we've got it just about covered, guys!

 

[dnetherland]

Have throttle at idle to engage or disengage pto if 2 stage clutch or independent pto, then bring rpm up to speed once engaged (usually around 2300 RPM). Once cutting make one pass around the outside of the field. On the next pass make a cut down the center. On the next pass cut the outside of one half, cross the middle cut and cut the inside of the other half so that turn radius remains the same with each cut. This keeps you from making tighter and tighter turns and saves on backing up and making figure of eights.

Don

 

[have_blue]

Only thing I can add to RickB and Jinman's posts are, make sure you don't forget ice cold pop to fill the cup holder.

Since this question comes up often, we should think about combining the best parts of the above replies, condense them, and make a sticky out of them. But then,,, it would take all the fun out of the debates, and squelch new ideas.

 

[FxdGrMind]

All good comments, only one thing to add.

Make sure that your lower arms are "LEVEL". if not your cut will be on the angle and it will trim lower on one side and longer on the other. Looks like C*ap... don't ask how I know.

 

[Mikeeemo]

Before you start, make sure your blade bolts are TIGHT and the blades swing freely. I had a lot of trouble with this (shoulders too short & bind the blade), the manufacturers make shims to increase the length of the shoulder area. It makes a difference

 

[Ken45101]

Before you start, make sure your blade bolts are TIGHT and the blades swing freely. I had a lot of trouble with this (shoulders too short & bind the blade), the manufacturers make shims to increase the length of the shoulder area. It makes a difference

I was reading the operator's manual on a Bush Hog 2010 that I was thinking of buying. It specifies that you should check the blade bolt tightness BEFORE EACH USE for 600 ft lbs.

Sorry, but I'm not going to block up a mower and crawl under it every time I use it. I'm not even sure how you measure 600 ft lbs laying on your back under a mower.

I know Bush Hog has (had) a good reputation, but if that's their operational requirements, maybe they deserve to be bankrupt.

Ken

 

[RickB]

I was reading the operator's manual on a Bush Hog 2010 that I was thinking of buying. It specifies that you should check the blade bolt tightness BEFORE EACH USE for 600 ft lbs.

Sorry, but I'm not going to block up a mower and crawl under it every time I use it. I'm not even sure how you measure 600 ft lbs laying on your back under a mower.

I know Bush Hog has (had) a good reputation, but if that's their operational requirements, maybe they deserve to be bankrupt.

Ken

Every manufacturer includes items in their operator's manuals that come from the legal department rather than the engineering department. These inclusions are easy to spot for most readers.

That said, I've not seen a Bush Hog rotary cutter built in the last 35 years that required being anywhere except above the machine to tighten the blade bolts. There is a small hole in the deck just in the right place to access the blade bolt nuts. Pretty common feature across the industry, in fact.

 

[Mikeeemo]

I use a 3/4 drive ratchet and the correct socket plus a 6 foot piece of pipe. I own a BROWN 472. There manual states to tighten every hour for the first 8 hours of use. So once you get the bolts tight, you can just check them every so often. If the bolts are allowed to run loose they beat out the mounting holes, then you can never keep them tight. I mow more than just fields of grass with mine so, I have found it to be to my benefit. I had a howse 500 that did not have the deck hole... I ended up destroying that mower...

 

[TimPa]

and, if you have a ford 2n/9n/8n, you should run an over-running coupler to prevent flywheeling.