Bucket pins/bushing issue

[Fastball]

Ok, this doesn't look right. I noticed that the bucket pins on Dad's LA480 loader look wrong.
One pin was just held in by the linch pin and the other looks like it's snapped off. And they look different sizes, to boot. As you can tell, I'm a total tractor newbie. I take it there's a bushing in the holes, and a pin is inserted into the bushing and pinned into place. So what the heck is this?

 

[aczlan]

One has too small of a pin in it.
The other, I would guess the pin rusted into the loader arm. That one will take a torch to get out.

Aaron Z

 

[Fastball]

Well, since my elderly father can't even remember the last time he had any servicing done (there's 1300 hours on his L2900) - I think I'm going to get the dealership to go over this thing. Change fluids, filters, hydraulics...and obviously, address this bucket issue - in general, everything. I might even go the whole enchilada and get the tires loaded, etc.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Depending on your skills and available tools you may be able to make this a DIY project. These small tractor buckets do not have bushings. The pins fit into drilled holes in both pieces and pins the same size inserted. Clearance between pins and hole is fairly loose. That is why the OP manuals call for lubricating every 10 hours of use. Dirt, water, and lack of lube rapidly cause wear. Your look to be well worn. Having a tractor dealer fix them at $125/hr may get pretty expensive, may approach or exceed replacement cost.

First step is to pull, punch out all the pins, may require a lot of soaking and heat. Use a punch pretty close to the diameter of the pins or you could mushroom the pin and make removal harder. Clean up and inspect. Then post pictures (close up and determine the extent of wear. Then we can give better solutions/answers. It looks like 3/4" - 7/8" pins. A Magnet base drill can be rented to bore out the holes and then fashion new pins from cold rolled shaft stock or one of the various hitch pins available which are forged steel. For me this is a fun project but solution comes after seeing condition not speculation. I live right down the road. And another member that has a big shop lives close also. He is a welder though so that may not be the right solution. He has good practical ides though.

I took another look at the pictures; it looks like the pins are all smaller than the holes. Depending on how long it has operated that way it may not be all that bad. People do strange things when they are not very mechanically minded, out of ignorance of the issues.

Ron

 

[Fastball]

"Exceed replacement cost"?
Of a new bucket, you mean? Give or take, how much is a new one...'cause this one needs a few welds, etc. Can you still get pin-type ones...or have they all gone to quick-attach models now?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

"Exceed replacement cost"?
Of a new bucket, you mean? Give or take, how much is a new one...'cause this one needs a few welds, etc. Can you still get pin-type ones...or have they all gone to quick-attach models now?

I have no idea what a new one costs. Again if welding is needed pictures are needed for analysis. Key is whether you can do your own work? If not, take to the dealer and get their recommendations as they would not listen to me anyway. I would venture if you bought the whole FEL or the bucket you could upgrade to Kubota's QH scheme. The Ls may be adaptable to the skid steer system also, check with a dealer or look on their web site. There are several after market manufacturers that have solutions also. Some advertise here on TBN such as Everything Attachments.

Ron

 

[Fastball]

Pictures of the bucket split were attached on a recent post in the Welding forum, under "weld on a bucket".

 

[countrybumpkin]

The two photos with the small size pin is a top link pin. Someone more than likely lost the original and replace with what they had laying around. The other pic is a bit hard to tell but I'm guessing the retainer came off and let the pin walk out. What the other side of that pin look like?

 

[TnAndy]

They do have bushings, they just aren't easily replaced. They are inserted in a hole in the loader arm or bucket and welded in place...you can see the weld bead in the photo. To do new, you have to grind off the weld flush with the base, get the old one out, and reverse to install.

Get the correct pins for it, and hopefully the small ones haven't damaged the bushing too much.

 

[Fastball]

The two photos with the small size pin is a top link pin. Someone more than likely lost the original and replace with what they had laying around. The other pic is a bit hard to tell but I'm guessing the retainer came off and let the pin walk out. What the other side of that pin look like?

I can't imagine how a top link pin got in there. Dad hasn't got a clue, he says. But then again, my dad's memory is spotty and it sounds like one of his "git 'er done" quicky fixes. On the other side, it looks like the pin is the proper one...and it's just snapped off. The linch pin is still in. I have no idea how the bucket is hanging on. I'm scared spitless to use the **** thing now.

 

[aczlan]

I can't imagine how a top link pin got in there. Dad hasn't got a clue, he says. But then again, my dad's memory is spotty and it sounds like one of his "git 'er done" quicky fixes. On the other side, it looks like the pin is the proper one...and it's just snapped off. The linch pin is still in. I have no idea how the bucket is hanging on. I'm scared spitless to use the **** thing now.

Looking at that picture, the holes that the pin is going through should line up with the holes in the bushing on the bucket (so that the pin turns with the bucket), that pin should be able to be driven out, then clean out the old grease, add fresh grease, then put the pin back in (or put a new pin in).
On the other side, that looks like a 3/4" toplink pin in the hole that is supposed to take a 1" loader pin.

Aaron Z

 

[Fastball]

Yeah, I'm going to head down to the dealership and get their take on it. Either get a couple of new pins and try to hammer the old ones out and slide the new ones in....or just let them take the entire tractor and give it the once-over so I know there aren't any more surprises waiting for me. Judging by the overall condition of the bucket, I'd be tempted to ask about the price of a new one.

 

[Egon]

Don't get too exited. Just punch the old pins out. Use a big hammer. Replace the pins with ordinary bolts and lock nuts. That will work just fine.

The retaining springs/clips on the proper pins do get lost, damaged or just dissapears. The bolt, locknut and washers will take a lot of abuse.

Some of pins may be drilled and have a zerk fitted to the end. These need proper replacement.

 

[Fastball]

Don't get too exited. Just punch the old pins out. Use a big hammer. Replace the pins with ordinary bolts and lock nuts. That will work just fine.

After hanging around the forums for a while and reading thousands of responses to hundreds of problems - the "use a big hammer" solution seems to be a cure-all for a lot of them. I'll just soak the one down in WD-40 overnight and see if I can dislodge it. The trick will be to get the holes lined up afterwards. Say, maybe I'll use another big hammer and a iron bar!

 

[PILOON]

You need to make a drift:
that's a length of correct sized pin with one end fairly well tapered so that alignment is not very critical.
You first drive in the drift and once the holes are aligned you follow with the actual pin which in turn pushes out the drift.

My snow plow setup calls for removing my bucket and a drift sure makes annual re installation a snap.

 

[houser52]

Ok, this doesn't look right. I noticed that the bucket pins on Dad's LA480 loader look wrong.
One pin was just held in by the linch pin and the other looks like it's snapped off. And they look different sizes, to boot. As you can tell, I'm a total tractor newbie. I take it there's a bushing in the holes, and a pin is inserted into the bushing and pinned into place. So what the heck is this?

That looks a lot like my LA680 loader setup. Mine takes 1" diameter pins. One end has a grease fitting recessed into it like in the first picture and the other end has a 1/4" hole in it. That's where a 1/4" bolt with a lock nut that slides through the bucket bushing. The 1/4" bolts keeps the pins in place.

Before I got my SSQA I replaced those original pins with new ones. I used Kroil to loosen them up and I just drove them out with a piece of 1" round stock I had laying around. I cleaned the inside of the bushings well before putting in the new pins.

 

[Mace Canute]

You need to make a drift:
that's a length of correct sized pin with one end fairly well tapered so that alignment is not very critical.
You first drive in the drift and once the holes are aligned you follow with the actual pin which in turn pushes out the drift.

My snow plow setup calls for removing my bucket and a drift sure makes annual re installation a snap.

That looks a lot like my LA680 loader setup. Mine takes 1" diameter pins. One end has a grease fitting recessed into it like in the first picture and the other end has a 1/4" hole in it. That's where a 1/4" bolt with a lock nut that slides through the bucket bushing. The 1/4" bolts keeps the pins in place.

Before I got my SSQA I replaced those original pins with new ones. I used Kroil to loosen them up and I just drove them out with a piece of 1" round stock I had laying around. I cleaned the inside of the bushings well before putting in the new pins.

Excellent advice.

 

[Fastball]

Went to Kubota and ordered a set of pins. Talked about replacing the actual bucket itself - but apparently Kubota doesn't make an OEM bucket to fit on the LA 480 loader anymore. Will try to look around for some kind of generic/aftermarket one from a Canadian source.

 

[aczlan]

You might also look at the cost of converting to skid steer quick attach, that would make it easier to switch you over to say forks on the front. Used skid steer compatible buckets can often be had for less than a OEM bucket.

Aaron Z

 

[Egon]

Don't get too exited. Just punch the old pins out. Use a big hammer. Replace the pins with ordinary bolts and lock nuts. That will work just fine.

After hanging around the forums for a while and reading thousands of responses to hundreds of problems - the "use a big hammer" solution seems to be a cure-all for a lot of them. I'll just soak the one down in WD-40 overnight and see if I can dislodge it. The trick will be to get the holes lined up afterwards. Say, maybe I'll use another big hammer and a iron bar!

The big hammer cause it works. It Dosen't require the fast swing of a small hammer. Makes it easier to hit your drift. Small hammers tend to be good for peening but time to break lose some rust they don't cut it.

Just a bolt slightly smaller than the holes will work well for driving out the old pin. A lineing bar makes getting the holes lined up easier. Heavy screw driver, plier handle etc will also work. Be aware they may break.

There are proper lining bars. Tapered punches are really not made for prying.
[video]https://www.google.ca/search?q=structural+steel+alignment+bar&client=safari&hl=en-ca&prmd=imsvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi96MeRlv7RAhUD44MKHYgvBgUQ_AUIBygB&biw=1024&bih=681#imgrc=HGjCzkPURPbYhM:[/video]

For the bucket improve the existing one rather than buying new. Weld on a thicker wider cutting edge, also add some to the vertical sides and put several pieces on the bottom for skid wear. Do this and it will be better than new.

From the looks of the paint on the bucket it may be just fine.