Backhoe Build A Backhoe For PT425... It Could Happen

[Barryh]

We have outriggers! Well, almost. I need to get some more steel stock but these pictures show the idea.

1st picture is of the outriggers in what will be the normal mode of operation. Nice spread, feels sturdy. Looks like it will lift the unit about 14-16" off the ground.

2nd picture shows the bolt/pin configuration. Note the position of the cylinder pin in the top, inboard holes in the brackets. In this position, I get normal swing down and the outriggers will stand up verticle for transportation(see next picture and make note of the empty pin hole on the top, outboard hole).

3rd picture shows the outrigger in the vertical position when the pin is in the inboard hole in the brackets.

4th picture shows the cylinder pin moved to the outboard hole in the brackets. In this position, I can get way below level with the outrigger. I couldn't lift the jackstands high enough to show the final depth that the outriggers can go. I think it will be able to lift the unit about 2' off the ground in this position.

5th picture shows the problem with the cylinder pin in this position... they cannot be lifted high enough to get through tight spaces. There really was no altenative with the way I made it. So, I will just slip the pin out and move it to the outboard holes in the brackets if I need to go way beyond normal horizontal depth. I just couldn't figure out how to make it go vertical for transport AND be able to swing way past horozontal without actually bending the outriggers like the boom is bent. I will try it this way and see how well it does. If it isn't sufficient, I will cut the lst 18" off the outriggers and angle them downward. That would solve it, for sure.

Running totals:
Time = 38 hrs.
Approximate Cost = $420

Can't wait to see pictures of this baby in action. You may have already said, but what starting projects do you have waiting in the wings anything really big ?

 

[MossRoad]

Wellll, I have a couple hundred small tree stumps to clear from an old farm field that we want to convert to a wildflower medow.

Some day we want to build a house on our property and I need to clear stumps from the building site and trench for electric, gas, phone, water from well, and house to outbuilding.

I haven't been able to work on it too much in the last week due to rain and my children's after school activities, but it is coming along nicely. I picked up an auto-darkening welding helmet and some more welding rod so I'm ready to go as soon as I get more time.

 

[MossRoad]

Here's a few pictures of this weekend's progress.

This is how it is working out... fine!

1st picture is an overall view from the front right side.

2nd picture is a side view with the boom curled up a bit. Note that much of those brackets at the joint between the boom and dipper stick will get cut off and discarded after final fit up and tests.

3rd picture shows the maximum swing to the right side. The left is the same. It is a tad over 120 degrees. Not too bad.

4th picture is a view of what will be under the operator. Shows the swing cylinders that will be covered by 1/4" diamond plate flooring.

5th picture shows the pivot assembly.

When I have the boom fully extended and step on the tow ring, the unit will tip the balance to the rear of the unit. This is good, because I will still have to add the floor plate, seat and hydraulic controls to the rear of the unit and the bucket and cylinders to the front. It is just about neutral. Once I put my butt in the seat and attach it to the tractor, I should have plenty of counterweight for full out reaches.

Also notice the 8" wheels under the unit. They will be attached to those legs sticking down from the main cross member. There will be a total of 4 wheels. They are rated at 300# each, and four of them should allow me to roll across the terrain fairly easily when the outriggers are up. They will lift off the ground as the outriggers are lowered.

Running totals:
Time = 42 hrs.
Approximate Cost = $450

 

[MossRoad]

I'll also report that the $59.00 autodarkening welding helmet from Harbor Freight is the best thing since sliced bread. I don't know how the world survived before these things were invented!

 

[toy]

looking real good anxious to see a picture or pictures of it in action with a bucket of dirt in the bucket. yep those auto darkening hoods are nice , I got two Lincoln auto darkening helments I bought me one and the wife bought me one they were on sale . Im glad I didn't know the wife was getting me one and I wasn't about to take one of them back . That way I don't have to carry my hood from garrage to garrage.

 

[Barryh]

Here's a few pictures of this weekend's progress.

This is how it is working out... fine!

1st picture is an overall view from the front right side.

2nd picture is a side view with the boom curled up a bit. Note that much of those brackets at the joint between the boom and dipper stick will get cut off and discarded after final fit up and tests.

3rd picture shows the maximum swing to the right side. The left is the same. It is a tad over 120 degrees. Not too bad.

4th picture is a view of what will be under the operator. Shows the swing cylinders that will be covered by 1/4" diamond plate flooring.

5th picture shows the pivot assembly.

When I have the boom fully extended and step on the tow ring, the unit will tip the balance to the rear of the unit. This is good, because I will still have to add the floor plate, seat and hydraulic controls to the rear of the unit and the bucket and cylinders to the front. It is just about neutral. Once I put my butt in the seat and attach it to the tractor, I should have plenty of counterweight for full out reaches.

Also notice the 8" wheels under the unit. They will be attached to those legs sticking down from the main cross member. There will be a total of 4 wheels. They are rated at 300# each, and four of them should allow me to roll across the terrain fairly easily when the outriggers are up. They will lift off the ground as the outriggers are lowered.

Running totals:
Time = 42 hrs.
Approximate Cost = $450

Lookin good !!

 

[J_J]

Here's a few pictures of this weekend's progress.

This is how it is working out... fine!

1st picture is an overall view from the front right side.

2nd picture is a side view with the boom curled up a bit. Note that much of those brackets at the joint between the boom and dipper stick will get cut off and discarded after final fit up and tests.

3rd picture shows the maximum swing to the right side. The left is the same. It is a tad over 120 degrees. Not too bad.

4th picture is a view of what will be under the operator. Shows the swing cylinders that will be covered by 1/4" diamond plate flooring.

5th picture shows the pivot assembly.

When I have the boom fully extended and step on the tow ring, the unit will tip the balance to the rear of the unit. This is good, because I will still have to add the floor plate, seat and hydraulic controls to the rear of the unit and the bucket and cylinders to the front. It is just about neutral. Once I put my butt in the seat and attach it to the tractor, I should have plenty of counterweight for full out reaches.

Also notice the 8" wheels under the unit. They will be attached to those legs sticking down from the main cross member. There will be a total of 4 wheels. They are rated at 300# each, and four of them should allow me to roll across the terrain fairly easily when the outriggers are up. They will lift off the ground as the outriggers are lowered.

Running totals:
Time = 42 hrs.
Approximate Cost = $450

David, from looking at the pictures, and you mentioning about 120 degrees of swing, I would think the front swing tabs should point more forward than aft. At the current angle, you can never get the 180 degrees of swing. It may require moving the back tabs out. I am having the same problem trying to find the right geomerty. I may use a curved front tab.

 

[MossRoad]

I put the wheels on it last night. Man, that is a lot easier to roll than carry!!!

As suspected, when I extended the arm all the way out, the tail lifted off the ground. I stepped on the tail and it easily came down, so there is a very good balance there. I need to put a grease zerk in each wheel. I just used 5/8" bolts tacked to the leg stands for axles. Four of them make it roll pretty easy. Now I need to get the floor installed so I can plan out where I want my hydraulic controls. Then figure out the seating location.

Running totals:
Time = 43 hrs.
Approximate Cost = $450

 

[MossRoad]

Picked up a seat at Rural King yesterday. $69.00 for a suspension seat. Not bad. Tacked it on. Feels nice.


Running totals:
Time = 43 hrs.
Approximate Cost = $520

 

[MossRoad]

I picked up two massive hydraulic cylinders today. I believe they are 4" bore X at least 16" stroke. I haven't checked yet. They were free!

I will check the actual dimensions when I get home tonight. They may even be a bit too big. I'm pretty sure I can use one for the boom lift, as I have a pretty good amount of space available in the boom/swing bracket , but don't know if the other will fit for the dipper stick. I'll sure try to make it work, though. If they do, it saves me another $250 at least. Can't knock it.

My only concern would be that they are so big that they are too slow or so powerful that they will bend the boom if I hit an imovable object.

 

[MossRoad]

Well, I measured them and they are 4" bore X 2.25" rod diameter.

According to the hydraulics calulator at Surplus Center I should get 31,000 pounds of push and 21,000 pounds of pull. I should get 147" per minute of push and 215" per minute of pull. That translates to about 7 seconds to extend 16" at full throttle. I think that will be fine... full boom extension or full dipper curl back in about 7 seconds. That should prevent any sudden movements. Boom retraction and dipper extension will be faster, but less powerful.

The cylinder ends are tube ends, which are rather big. However, I had some CAT2-3 spacers and they fit perfectly so that I can still use my 1" pins and bushings! What a lucky dog I am!!!

Now all I need is two joysticks, two valves for the outriggers, one cylinder for the bucket, the bucket and the bucket linkage. And, of course, all the hoses and fittings.

 

[BobRip]

Well, I measured them and they are 4" bore X 2.25" rod diameter.

According to the hydraulics calulator at Surplus Center I should get 31,000 pounds of push and 21,000 pounds of pull. I should get 147" per minute of push and 215" per minute of pull. That translates to about 7 seconds to extend 16" at full throttle. I think that will be fine... full boom extension or full dipper curl back in about 7 seconds. That should prevent any sudden movements. Boom retraction and dipper extension will be faster, but less powerful.

The cylinder ends are tube ends, which are rather big. However, I had some CAT2-3 spacers and they fit perfectly so that I can still use my 1" pins and bushings! What a lucky dog I am!!!

Now all I need is two joysticks, two valves for the outriggers, one cylinder for the bucket, the bucket and the bucket linkage. And, of course, all the hoses and fittings.

If everyone will please send Moss the stuff that you can spare that he requested above, I am sure he would appreciate it. After all he has done for this site, we certainly owe it to him.

 

[Taylortractornut]

Hes got the bucket here lol. I need to get his address and phone number.

 

[MossRoad]

I will be sending you a PM later this week. Thanks again!

I picked up some cat 3 top link ends that I am going to use on the rod ends instead of the tube type ends. That's because the entire unit is not perfectly square and the tubes will bind. I did the same thing for the swing cylinders and they work fine.

By the way, the cylinders are a 25" stroke! They may be too long!!!! If they are, they will make a decent log splitter. As I recall, the 16" stroke cylinders with clevis ends that the plans call for are about 31" end to end. These are only 32" end to end. So even though they are about the same length, they may have too much movement. I will find out later this week when it dries out. It has rained for several days and is too damp to do any arc welding in the driveway.


Running totals:
Time = 44 hrs.
Approximate Cost = $550

 

[MossRoad]

I will be sending you a PM later this week. Thanks again!

By the way, the cylinders are a 25" stroke! They may be too long!!!! If they are, they will make a decent log splitter. As I recall, the 16" stroke cylinders with clevis ends that the plans call for are about 31" end to end. These are only 32" end to end. So even though they are about the same length, they may have too much movement. I will find out later this week when it dries out. It has rained for several days and is too damp to do any arc welding in the driveway.

Well, the big free cylinders are just plain too big. The movement is just way too long. The things only extend 18" and I am at the end of my boom travel. There is still 7" of travel left. If I remember to stop when I get to the end, I would be O.K., but that would never happen. I would end up buckling the boom or the boom mount and destroying the thing. Oh, well... log splitter duty is in order for those bad boys!

 

[MossRoad]

Thinking about hydraulic valves....

I'm looking at the Prince sectional valves. I can order them in just about any configuration imaginable and can get joysticks to control any two adjacent spools. I'm thinking of putting the bucket and boom controls on the left joystick and the dipper and thumb on the right joystick and foot controls for left and right swing. The outriggers will have stubby handles and be located between the joysticks.

They all appear to be just simple, dual action cylinders, so I am thinking about getting simple, dual action valve sections. Anyone see a need for float or regen? I don't think I need it so complicated for regen as it will not be a daily use item and I don't see a need for the time savings and added cost of regen circuitry. I also cannot see a need for a float option for any of the valves. Can anyone see a reason for float?

Any other thoughts on valving?

 

[Taylortractornut]

MR float on the main boom would be handy for running an compaction wheel on the end of the dipper. uesd to run an old Drott hoe that had float in it for working around rail ways. you used the weight and the stick to control down pressure. when in hard diggin you flipped a switch and you had loads f pressure. The float mainly kept it from pushing itself over backwards when on a bridge or raised ballasted track.

 

[MossRoad]

MR float on the main boom would be handy for running an compaction wheel on the end of the dipper. uesd to run an old Drott hoe that had float in it for working around rail ways. you used the weight and the stick to control down pressure. when in hard diggin you flipped a switch and you had loads f pressure. The float mainly kept it from pushing itself over backwards when on a bridge or raised ballasted track.

Thanks. I was trying to think of a situation where it could usefull. The option for float is only a couple bucks more so I will probably get it.

 

[Beechwood]

Thanks. I was trying to think of a situation where it could usefull. The option for float is only a couple bucks more so I will probably get it.

MR; I installed a float spool for my quick attach plate, so far I have only used it with my snow blade and it makes a big differance when pushing wet heavy snow. I adjust the HT. of the blade with my lift arms then I put the attachment plate in float, then the snow blade will pivot up and down as needed without getting the crabbing up effect. ( when I used to have the lift arms in float)

 

[MossRoad]

Hmmm. I set the left/right angle of the blade with the quick attach circuit, the height of my blade with the dump/curl circuit, then put the FEL arms in float.

Are you saying you put the plow's left/right (quick attach) circuit into float with your new valve? So you now have float on the quick attach circuit and the FEL arms? That sounds interesting. If the plow is free to pivot left/right, how do you keep it from flipping back and forth on you as you turn your steering wheel? Maybe we should start another thread on this, as it sounds interesting.