Building 55' Bridge Across Creek - Utility Poles

[deezler]

^ good point, Eddie. Maybe the widest roll of window flashing or zip tape that you can find? Ideally covering all the flat portion of your cut on the top side of the poles. The gooey tape also reseals itself around screws coming through it.

Good call on the GRKs, they are indeed stout. And you got the big 'uns. I predrilled holes for all of my decking boards, didn't want to stress them out too bad. I also used a spade drill bit to make a very shallow counter sink for the GRK heads, since I wanted them flush with the decking. In retrospect, that was probably a bad idea.

 

[gable74]

I will have over 600 screws to put in, so I plan to pre-drill the boards, but not countersink the heads. Not worried to much about the little bumps.

 

[Rustyiron]

If your decking is green you won't need to pre drill, and if not, the only reason would be for splitting near the ends. I use the heck out of those GRK RSS screws and am amazed that even in normal junk lumber (normal lumberyard dimensional stuff) we can put them within an inch of the end of a 2x4 for temporary bracing without splitting it.
If you don't already have one, get a cordless impact driver.

 

[Rustyiron]

I will have over 600 screws to put in, so I plan to pre-drill the boards, but not countersink the heads. Not worried to much about the little bumps.

Countersinking makes a little "cup" that will hold water and expose end grain. The little things add up.

 

[gable74]

I have a couple impacts and don't plan to countersink the heads. I was going to predrill to save some battery life on the impact, but if they cut that well, maybe I will skip that step. Thanks.

 

[Rustyiron]

I have a couple impacts and don't plan to countersink the heads. I was going to predrill to save some battery life on the impact, but if they cut that well, maybe I will skip that step. Thanks.

I read that you weren't counter sinking and the that was my (very) long way around to agreeing with you and why .

 

[gable74]

I figured as much lol......no worries

Gonna set up the saw and stand tomorrow and start cutting some deck boards. I saved a few bucks at the mill by not having them cut to length (so long as they were 84" or more). Kind of wish I had him cut them as I am looking at having to make 200+ cuts on this 2" lumber now....LOL. Might stop on the way home and pick up a new blade or two.

 

[Rustyiron]

A lot of times if you're Lumber is just a little longer than needed or you can't get another board out of it, we'll put them down with both ends "running wild" then snap a chalk line across the whole length to trim them with a skillsaw. Usually this is much faster and easier on the eye in the end.
I'm not trying to run your job, but just passing on little things that someone has shown ME over the years.

 

[deezler]

^ coupled with that thought, rusty, is the fact that it can be hard to keep the boards running perfectly perpendicular as you go across the bridge, even though you might have squared it up really nicely to begin with. So you might pre-cut the board ends dead straight up at the garage, and then half way across the bridge realize that they are all at a slight angle with a zig-zag look on the edges, if that makes sense. So cutting them all afterwards on a chalk line, in place, makes it look perfect.

My bridge was a little bit skewed. I mostly hid the zig zag ends with my bumper rail screwed in from the side.

 

[EddieWalker]

Even with treated 2x6's from Lowes or Home Depot, the length varies on each board by an eighth to 3/8's of an inch. I never precut them. I always cut them after they are installed.

 

[fried1765]

There is a special tape that some people use to flash deck joists. I'm not a fan of metal or paper flashing the tops of joists because it's hit or miss on how well it works. While it does shed some of the water that comes from rain, it also retains moisture that is formed from condensation. That moisture remains under the flashing longer because it's protected from the flashing. The tape is supposed to help this because it's attached completely to the joist. On my jobs, I do not flash the tops of my joists.

Butyl flashing tape is an excellent way to protect the tops of any type joists.
It does need to be wide enough to allow water to be shed well over both sides of the joist tops.

 

[gable74]

Good call. Not going to be able to cut 120' of 2" thick oak with a cordless circular saw, so I may have to lug the generator down there. I will line the centers up and rip the ends when I am done.

Thanks.

 

[BleedingOrange]

Why not use a chalk line once all the boards are installed, and use a chainsaw.

 

[gable74]

Why not use a chalk line once all the boards are installed, and use a chainsaw.

Might be able to use my sled and guide with the chainsaw. I will look at that option as well. Thanks.

 

[Carl_NH]

Very nice looking bridge and project!

Also if the decking has one straight edge, and your support beams are +-2" width variance, you can predrill through a stack of deck boards right on the trailer with a longer bit rather than drilling one at at time.

 

[EddieWalker]

I would think that a chainsaw would give you a ragged looked edge to the cut deck boards. Even a framing saw blade will give you some tear out. I almost always use a finish blade for everything.

 

[K5lwq]

I have built a lot of things making all the cuts with a chainsaw. But I am no carpenter that is a fact.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Back in the day I've worked with framing crews from up north. They were hired for their speed. A chain saw was there go-to tool. A sharp chain makes a decent cut. I would try it.

gg

 

[K5lwq]

My FIL moved in with us a couple weeks ago and loves to sit outside. I put a retractable awning up for him and had to stab out from the house to make it work. All the cuts were with the chainsaw. So far no one has even noticed. Lol
I think it will hold.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I figured as much lol......no worries

Gonna set up the saw and stand tomorrow and start cutting some deck boards. I saved a few bucks at the mill by not having them cut to length (so long as they were 84" or more). Kind of wish I had him cut them as I am looking at having to make 200+ cuts on this 2" lumber now....LOL. Might stop on the way home and pick up a new blade or two.

A lot easier to cut them on the saw and stand than in place on the bridge.

Just set your first board then set another one temporarily down down bridge say 30 or 40 feet. Cut yourself three spacers. 1/2" plywood works good. Nail one into the end grain of each plank and string a line between the nails. Then go a head and screw your boards down using the line and your 3rd spacer as a guide. The spacer keeps you from pushing the string out as you place planks. Every once in a while check how square your boards are. Hold a framing square against a board edge so the other leg runs along the line and check/set it square. If your way off, not likely, set the correction over several boards to make it unnoticeable. Work your way down the bridge this way.

gg