Building a Pull-Type Road Grader

[theonlybull]

we are currently using an old 4 horse road grader, that has the front axle removed, and just pins onto the drawbar of our 52 JD MT, the hyd. drawbar makes it easy to lift the blade to turn around, but we still use an operator standing on the rear to run the grader, makes life much easier, and does a wonderfull job.

 

[CTyler]

This is a different one, couldn't find the one I was looking for.

Link to thread and pic

 

[BarryinMN]

Another option would be an Adams Road Patrol 4 wheel horse drawn grader where the operator sits/stands on the back spinning wheels moving what amounts to a 6 way blade.

Your spouse could make the road smooth as a baby's bottom with a little practice.

Don't have a pix but the Lincoln MN VFD has one out front of the fire barn.

 

[Dozernut]

I am currently searching for material to build a pull grader myself. I am thinking about getting an old hay rake and removing the rake, then build an adapter to mount an old 3 pt. blade I have. The rake has a substantial frame with wheels and a crank adjuster for up and down. The 3 pt. blade would let me angle the blade and I could convert it to hydraulic easily. I have some old 3pt. implements that I could take the hitch from for hooking up to the tractor and this would also provide adjustment for raising and lowering.
If this fails I will just build a frame and the adjusters. Good luck!

 

[JRP]

I mad something like this

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/33-184259-DRIVEWAYFIXER.jpg

out of a 10' piece of I beam and sevaral pieces of RR rail.

I added a 3pt connection I can pick up with my Speeco quick hitch.

Overall, it is inexpensive and it really does a good job. I pull with a chain or can just lower it with the 3pt. hitch.

The quick hitch lets me pick it up if I need to travel distance.

It also works well for knocking down fire ant mounds.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

I have a bud who has a large leveling blade for a hundred plus horse tractor with a three point set up.

I've seen smaller ones at the different tractor places about and wondered how it worked. So I asked bud about his. He let me know it wasn't worth a flip except for leveling a rock driveway.

Might be what you want.

You could make one or maybe find one based upon my description.

Let's say you take two pieces of six inch channel eight feet long and place them parallel however apart you want your blade to be. Then you tie then together, on top of course. Then you take your cutter blade and it's supporting material and you place it between the two parallel pieces of channel.

What you're wanting is to have your cutting edge riding on guides so that it can't whoop up and down. With the channels being your runners then your blade can only make a flush cut.

The big one bud has two blades slightly angled in a spread V shape. But the smaller ones I've seen elsewhere just had one.

I thought it was ingenious in concept and could be adaptable to different tractor capabilities. If your tractor could pull it you could add weight etc.

I never built my grader, haven't needed it yet. But I can't see where a three point would work on the same principles as a quick attach on a skid steer would.

Hope this helps.

 

[BobInMN]

Thanks for all the ideas and pics.

Slamfire - What is a double walking beam? I have never heard of one.

I considered using a ball hitch, but thought I might have a little more freedom of movement with a pintel hitch due to the fact the main beam is designed to tilt left and right, up and down.

I have looked for one of the old pull-type graders for about the last year. Seems everytime I find one at an auction they go for over $1000. I was hoping to build for less than $300. Plus most of them have a 10' blade. I'm not sure the Kubota would handle it.

The reason I like the Hygrade design is you can add as much weight as you need on the rear end. Like I said I plan on using top links instead of hydraulic cylinders. This will give me the option to change later if I want to.

I'm thinking that with a 7' or 8 blade, the right amount of weight, and not taking to big of cut it should trail OK.

Tried to get prices today on the other steel I need for the frame. Every place I checked was closed for the holiday weekend.

Thanks Again!

 

[BobInMN]

Maybe I confused some of you when I said I wanted to use the three point to raise and lower it. I plan on build a frame for the three point with the pintle hich on it, that way the grader would only be lifted by one point and would have freedom of movement left and right and up and down.

Alot like some of the receiver hitches I've seen some of you build for your three points.

I think this will raise and lower it enough while in use. If I want to raise it higher to transport I can use the top link on the rear of the grader.

 

[Slamfire]

I suppose it would, although the walking beam would have a greater range of motion than a ball hitch. Here in the Smokey Mtns. we have some pretty steep grades, and abrupt changes. You can't see more than 50 yards down my 1/4 mile driveway unless you are on top of one hill looking at the top of another.

For whoever asked what a walking beam is, it is a lever with a fulcrum in the middle. Any motion applied to one end is reversed at the other. A doubled one can change this to the same motion at both ends.

 

[Dozernut]

No I was not confused, I just did not explain myself well enough. Only the two lower arms would be hooked up, the top arm would not. This would allow the the unit to raise to a transport mode. The crank on the rake would provide fine adjustment. Sorry for the confusion, sometimes when the creative juices get flowing the ability to communicate suffers.
Your hitch idea sounds interesting and would work well and would be better. This would allow the grader to turn where my idea would not allow it to turn but skid the wheels. That is the beauty of kicking around ideas, someone may come up with an easier solution or a completely different train of thought.