3-Point Hitch Burning Clutch Smell

   / Burning Clutch Smell #31  
OK, now we are back to you have a gear driven transmission with a mechanical shuttle using a dry clutch.
So we are also back to lubricating the clutch shaft and linkage, then adjusting your foot clutch for an inch of free play.
If you have not adjusted a clutch before free play is the amount of clutch pedal movement before it tightens up and starts to depress the clutch fingers.
So after lubricating the clutch linkage and verifying that it is all free and easy moving, with the tractor off and parking brake set,
reach in with your hand and see how far you can move the clutch pedal with your hand.
Trying to push it down the amount it travels easily is your free play. Also try and lift it or pull it back it should not pull back any.
If it does your linkage needs to be cleaned lubed and freed up before any else is checked.

A regen is when a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) has extra fuel injected into the system to burn outside of the engine and in the exhaust to raise the exhaust Temperature high enough to burn off the accumulated carbon build up.

I am not positive but I think your tractor has a DOC (Diesel Oxidation Catalyst) which does not get an occasional fuel added regen but relies on continual exhaust heat to be enough to help it remain clean.
 
   / Burning Clutch Smell #32  
Since it really is a gear transmission model, and the PTO stopped turning while it was loaded and the engine running, it sounds like your clutch is slipping. And pretty badly. Hopefully an adjustment will fix it. If the clutch plates are too worn or glazed you're looking at splitting the tractor and replacing the clutch.
 
   / Burning Clutch Smell #33  
Since it really is a gear transmission model, and the PTO stopped turning while it was loaded and the engine running, it sounds like your clutch is slipping. And pretty badly. Hopefully an adjustment will fix it. If the clutch plates are too worn or glazed you're looking at splitting the tractor and replacing the clutch.

I believe that all of those have an independent pto with the separate wet clutch pack.
 
   / Burning Clutch Smell
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Since it really is a gear transmission model, and the PTO stopped turning while it was loaded and the engine running, it sounds like your clutch is slipping. And pretty badly. Hopefully an adjustment will fix it. If the clutch plates are too worn or glazed you're looking at splitting the tractor and replacing the clutch.

Wow...Do you think there would be clutch damage with only 100 hours on the tractor .....I can tell you that I do not ride the clutch.

With The one time pulling heavy logs, I can see some clutch temp generated...that is probably the hardest I've worked thus tractor

Thanks
John
 
   / Burning Clutch Smell #35  
I believe that all of those have an independent pto with the separate wet clutch pack.

Yea. I thought that the PTO clutch was driven off the main transmission shaft but looking at the power flow diagram in the shop manual, it's driven from an engine speed shaft that goes through the clutch center. So yep I was wrong about that.
 
   / Burning Clutch Smell #36  
Wow...Do you think there would be clutch damage with only 100 hours on the tractor .....I can tell you that I do not ride the clutch.

With The one time pulling heavy logs, I can see some clutch temp generated...that is probably the hardest I've worked thus tractor

Thanks
John

It does not take much slipping to kill a dry clutch. Mis adjustment will do it. And they can go our of adjustment from wear.

But given my post above where I was wrong about the PTO being driven from the transmission, I'm less sure of what the problem is. It seems unlikely that both the engine clutch and PTO clutch would be slipping, but losing drive and losing the PTO drive would indicate something like that. And re-reading your posts now it looks like I mistook "PTO shaft was NOT rotating on this project" for the PTO driving something and then stopped, but that's not what you really said. And you didn't say you lose drive either. Oof. I'm batting zero for N here. Sorry for the wild goose chase.
 
   / Burning Clutch Smell #37  
It does not take much slipping to kill a dry clutch. Mis adjustment will do it. And they can go our of adjustment from wear.
True but they generally don't go out of adjustment enough to slip in 100 hours.
I'm at 2267 hours with many hundreds of hours forward/reversing, loader work, snow plowing, grading, tilling, Etc. and haven't needed the first clutch adjustment yet. (free play is still around where it was when the tractor was new)
 
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   / Burning Clutch Smell #38  
If the smell is only happening on hard pulls and the clutch adjustment is within the 1" range, what comes to mind is how do you engage and disengage the clutch?

You should not clutch at high RPM. Always idle down. If you are clutching at high RPM and under a load, more damage is being done. It doesn't take long under those conditions to smoke the clutch.

Once a good clutch is locked up, you can shower down on it with any amount of load you want. It will not slip. Once it is glazed over or worn bad, it can start slipping under a load. It will only get worse from there.

Sorry, that's all I got on this one but am eager to hear about what you find. Good luck!
 
   / Burning Clutch Smell #39  
If the smell is only happening on hard pulls and the clutch adjustment is within the 1" range, what comes to mind is how do you engage and disengage the clutch?

You should not clutch at high RPM. Always idle down. If you are clutching at high RPM and under a load, more damage is being done. It doesn't take long under those conditions to smoke the clutch.

Once a good clutch is locked up, you can shower down on it with any amount of load you want. It will not slip. Once it is glazed over or worn bad, it can start slipping under a load. It will only get worse from there.

Sorry, that's all I got on this one but am eager to hear about what you find. Good luck!

^^ This ^^ Also, suppose you're easy 'nuf on the clutch that it isn't all that broke in. That or just whyever the log job(s) glazed it up and it may slip hence for ?? long. (hope not)

Patience to remain in a low gear when pulling heavy loads is kind to dry clutches. Taking off in a mid-high range/gear with a 'substantial' load is far from it.

Not to be about me, but I don't idle a tractor at <1200 rpm or engage PTO at quite half of "PTO rpm" on the tach.
 
   / Burning Clutch Smell #40  
Well, then you don't have a clutch nor a clutch pedal to adjust.

Yes they do. Every HST tractor I’ve ever seen had a clutch pedal. I wasn’t convinced my Grand L actually had a clutch ( the Grand L has an electric pto clutch vs the standard ) but when I had to split the Grand it it did in fact have a clutch.
 

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