Bush Hog advice

[stlawrence]

I just went to the John Deere dealer to talk about tractors and stuff. As an aside, I must say they really like their tractors - don't think they should be discounted much.

I need a tractor to bush hog about 50 acres of abandoned pasture in hilly terrain. I'm looking at a JD 5045E or a Kubota MX4700.

Talking with the salesman, he suggested I should get a pull-along bush hog, like a JD MX8, rather than a 3-point bush hog. He said the tractor would be much more stable with the pull-along.

Is he right? What are the advantages of the pull-along (that just hooks to the drawbar) over the one that hooks to the 3-point hitch? Is one better than the other? Which one is more expensive?

Thanks.

Dave

 

[LD1]

I think the pull along ones are typically more $$ due to having to suspend them themselves, longer pto shaft and a drawbar.

A pull along WOULD be more stable as well, but with a 3PH type, when you dont have the hog raised in the air, there isn't a lot of weight on the tractor anyway. And if you get one with the floating rear wheel (chains instead of fixed metal straps), that would be even better.

With a large bushhog raised, it could be a little unstable expecally going uphill, without frontend weights.

Of course 4wd is also something to consider cause it will give you 4w braking as well.

 

[TripleR]

I just went to the John Deere dealer to talk about tractors and stuff. As an aside, I must say they really like their tractors - don't think they should be discounted much.

I need a tractor to bush hog about 50 acres of abandoned pasture in hilly terrain. I'm looking at a JD 5045E or a Kubota MX4700.

Talking with the salesman, he suggested I should get a pull-along bush hog, like a JD MX8, rather than a 3-point bush hog. He said the tractor would be much more stable with the pull-along.

Is he right? What are the advantages of the pull-along (that just hooks to the drawbar) over the one that hooks to the 3-point hitch? Is one better than the other? Which one is more expensive?

Thanks.

Dave

I really don't know the difference in cost. We use a 10 foot Woods 121 3-point and a 10 foot six inch Woods DS1260 and in hilly terrain the pull behind is definitely more stable. It wouldn't seem like it would make that much difference, but it does.

I suspect one reason is the attachment point is further back on the 3-point and the weight is supported higher through the three point. You also have lateral forces exerted in turning wheres you don't with the pull type. Since I am no engineer or physicist, I may be way off, but our pull type is more stable.

There are, however, drawbacks to the pull type such as maneuverability is no where near as good with the pull type as the 3-point. Imagine constantly backing up a short coupled two wheeled trailer.

The pull type will give a better cut over uneven ground as it follows the contours better.

Lots to think about.

 

[stlawrence]

And a follow-up question: the dealer said I should get a bush hog that is wider than the stance of the tractors. I understand that makes it easier to mow up to woodlines, but is there another practical reason?

 

[IslandTractor]

And a follow-up question: the dealer said I should get a bush hog that is wider than the stance of the tractors. I understand that makes it easier to mow up to woodlines, but is there another practical reason?

Almost every tractor has enough horsepower to pull a bush hog that is slightly wider than the track. So to make the most of your tractor and make cutting go faster, get a bush hog that maximizes cutting width for the power you have available. 4 or 5 engine hp for every foot of rotary cutter width is about right.

 

[TripleR]

And a follow-up question: the dealer said I should get a bush hog that is wider than the stance of the tractors. I understand that makes it easier to mow up to woodlines, but is there another practical reason?

I have to disagree with your dealer; don't know that he is necessarily wrong, but for me, I use cutters from four foot to ten foot and on my L5030, I like a cutter no wider than my tires as I mow around a lot of trees and if my tractor will go between trees, I know my cutter will also without looking back all the time.

However for your acreage, I would use as big of cutter as I could pull.

 

[Wooddust]

I am super sensitive to tipping or feeling unstable. If its that steep Id be looking for ways to do anything to feel secure in the tractor seat. A pull type will definitely be more stable

 

[MESSMAKER]

I have to disagree with your dealer; don't know that he is necessarily wrong, but for me, I use cutters from four foot to ten foot and on my L5030, I like a cutter no wider than my tires as I mow around a lot of trees and if my tractor will go between trees, I know my cutter will also without looking back all the time.

However for your acreage, I would use as big of cutter as I could pull.

I agree. You don't have to think where the cutter is if it is the same width. It just follows the same track. The downside is you can't trim as close to obstacles. It is easy to get too close if your cutter is the same size as tractor.
That is one of the negative of a pull behind cutter. It is easier to get out when you can just raise the cutter and get out of trouble. A pull behind adds another wrinkle to things. You can always unhook the cutter an get out of trouble, but you will not like doing that.

 

[Builder]

I just bought a semi-mount Deere MX-8. It's kind of a hybrid between a pull type and a 3 point mount. only the lower arms are attached.
It is wider than my rear tires (rear tires 7ft, mower is 8'-6"). It has a hydraulic "swing" option, which allows me to shift the mower from one side to the other for mowing along fences, pulling down the road, etc.

Look into the hydraulic swing option on an MX mower :thumbsup:

 

[Transit]

I am super sensitive to tipping or feeling unstable. If its that steep Id be looking for ways to do anything to feel secure in the tractor seat. A pull type will definitely be more stable

On most tractors you can reconfigure the wheels for a wider stance for more stability. :thumbsup:

 

[TripleR]

I agree. You don't have to think where the cutter is if it is the same width. It just follows the same track. The downside is you can't trim as close to obstacles. It is easy to get too close if your cutter is the same size as tractor.
That is one of the negative of a pull behind cutter. It is easier to get out when you can just raise the cutter and get out of trouble. A pull behind adds another wrinkle to things. You can always unhook the cutter an get out of trouble, but you will not like doing that.

Yeah, you really have to prioritize your needs when selecting a cutter type and size.

Actually we haven't found the pull type or three point easier to get out of a situation, just different.

We have had fewer encounters with fences/trees with the pull type as it doesn't swing out when turning, but you can't turn as sharp, decisions, decisions.

 

[Transit]

Stlawrence, what about transport? With a 3 point hitch you dont have to drag the hog around, just lift it.

 

[TripleR]

Stlawrence, what about transport? With a 3 point hitch you don't have to drag the hog around, just lift it.

It would seem simple until you read this:http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/176952-pull-bush-hog-lift-when.html

 

[stlawrence]

Dealer emphasized that the tractor would get light in the front end when hogging uphill, with the 3ph. Seems to me like front weights would be cheaper than the pull along rig difference.

I can see swinging the tractor around and taking out a section of fence with the 3ph rig, though!:laughing:

 

[TripleR]

Dealer emphasized that the tractor would get light in the front end when hogging uphill, with the 3ph. Seems to me like front weights would be cheaper than the pull along rig difference.

I can see swinging the tractor around and taking out a section of fence with the 3ph rig, though!:laughing:

I would advise weight on the front whether you use a three-point or pull type. We keep our FEL on as we often use it to push brush/saplings down to keep them off the cab and to find any stumps etc.

Where we found the greatest improvement in stability was on steep side slopes around our pond levies and side hills. It will be more stable on uphills due to the shorter fulcrum of the draw bar as opposed to lift arms, but we never had any trouble with the three point as long as you keep it on the ground.

We pull ours with an M8540 which has proven to be a very stable platform as was our CX80. Some tractors are just more stable than others. My M is better than my L and my MF is better than any.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Are you going to mow this field frequently? I have a 6' brush mower that I use to maintain (control wees in) pastures and also use it to reclaim old fields which are growing up in saplings. Mowing 50ac with a 6' mower would take a long time, especially if it wasn't flat/smooth enough to go very fast (as is the case with my rough and tilted fields!).
A wide unit would not be a big problem if you are mowing a whole field, with few or no obstructions. If you had a lot of trees to thread between/among, tractor width (plus or minus a bit) is probably a better idea...even if it means more time in the field.
The 3PH unit does swing wide and has to be backed into corners. Its just a matter of learning what it will do and driving appropriately.
My mower has a top chain, so it is effectively a tow-behind with hydraulically-adjustable front height when it is on the ground. If I had a hydraulic top link, it would be even easier, since I wouldn't have to get off the tractor and tighten up the link (and chain) before transporting it.

BOB

 

[Transit]

A wide deck will scalp high spots on uneven ground, doesnt do much good for the blades.

 

[stlawrence]

That's a good point, transit, about the scalping with a wide deck. I suspect I may have some pretty uneven terrain - I have not even walked the whole property yet. McGregor is right, I fear, about the time aspect. I have not done the math yet, but 50+acres with a 6-foot hog is going to take some time - especially on the first clearing cut. The way I figure it, though, is that time in the tractor seat is good time.

Let's see if I'm still singing the same song next year, though.

 

[TripleR]

A wide deck will scalp high spots on uneven ground, doesn't do much good for the blades.

A wide deck will scalp more easily than a narrower deck, but we really haven't had problems with either of our ten foot models, if it's too cobby, just don't mow so close.

That's a good point, transit, about the scalping with a wide deck. I suspect I may have some pretty uneven terrain - I have not even walked the whole property yet. McGregor is right, I fear, about the time aspect. I have not done the math yet, but 50+acres with a 6-foot hog is going to take some time - especially on the first clearing cut. The way I figure it, though, is that time in the tractor seat is good time.

Let's see if I'm still singing the same song next year, though.

Well that is true up to a point, but I recently spent six days mowing with our M8540 and L5030 with Woods DS1260 and Land Pride RCR2672 and it sure started feeling like work.

You certainly have a lot of things to consider.

 

[Transit]

That's a good point, transit, about the scalping with a wide deck. I suspect I may have some pretty uneven terrain - I have not even walked the whole property yet. McGregor is right, I fear, about the time aspect. I have not done the math yet, but 50+acres with a 6-foot hog is going to take some time - especially on the first clearing cut. The way I figure it, though, is that time in the tractor seat is good time.

Let's see if I'm still singing the same song next year, though.

If the fields are that wild you MUST, I say MUST have a filter-screen before the radiator or you will overheat the engine with all the crud that is vacuumed up.

You may want to cut high the first time too, never can tell what is in the field.