Bush Hog repair question

[mrmikey]

Never underestimate what can happen when something is moving at those velocities.

Nope, never underestimate where, when or how. As MR said, I've seen damage done in ways that no one could do intentionally.

 

[TORQUIN]

Seems like this would be a great time to get a stump jumper for it. Solves two problems, the broken part and the lack of stump jumper.

Chris

 

[rslee]

Seems like this would be a great time to get a stump jumper for it. Solves two problems, the broken part and the lack of stump jumper.

Chris

As I’ve already mentioned, those 2 items would total nearly $800. No way I’m sinking that into an old bush hog that came with the tractor when I bought it. Also not buying just the OEM replacement bar for $440. I’m going to talk to some local places to see what options I have to have a new bar made. I’ll also ask about welding it and possibly beefing it up with support on the front and back. I have a friend’s bush hog right now, so not an urgent need.

 

[TORQUIN]

As I’ve already mentioned, those 2 items would total nearly $800. No way I’m sinking that into an old bush hog that came with the tractor when I bought it. Also not buying just the OEM replacement bar for $440. I’m going to talk to some local places to see what options I have to have a new bar made. I’ll also ask about welding it and possibly beefing it up with support on the front and back. I have a friend’s bush hog right now, so not an urgent need.

OK, I didn't read every reply in the thread. You might look at other places like Agri-supply. I replaced my stump jumper, on a Howse brand, from Agri, and it was very reasonable. It seems like some of the parts are universal, so that may be the case for a stump jumper, fitting your shaft size.

Chris

 

[klm]

If you 'v got a good equipment trailer, load that brush hog on it and haul it to the nearest scrap yard.

 

[ttouring]

I have an old 6’ Bush Hog that has a cracked blade bar at the edge of the shaft hole for the gear box. It doesn’t have a stump jumper, and I hit the bar on a stump the last time I mowed. Is this something that can be safely welded to repair, or is that too risky? I know balancing will be an issue, but being right at the center hole should help. Otherwise, the part is $440 on an old cutter, so would be a total loss and would replace the bush hog.

A used one might be an option.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

You should be able to replace that cross bar.
Check with a Bush Hog dealer.

From the picture, I'd have to agree that this would be the best option. I would not trust the best weld on that crack. The entire piece has been stressed out of shape by that impact, most likely.

 

[Kasamoto]

Take it off, clean it up and weld it if you can weld well. You might even want to reinforce it a bit. Bushhogs seldom are well-balanced after they have run for a few years. A little extra weight that close to the center would not be a problem. If you want to balance the part you could weld a few washers on the other side.

 

[schoeny]

Did the shaft where the bolt holds blade on get bent , when you hit the stump

 

[2manyrocks]

You wrote some things. But explain how I can be sitting on a tractor and lose my leg from a bush hog blade.

The more likely problem is for someone standing on the ground. I've seen bush cutters sling grape fruit sized rocks 100 yards in the blink of an eye. I wouldn't take any chances with the blade coming apart.

 

[prather]

I had exact same issue on an older 6' Bush Hog myself. I ground it out and weld it up. That was 3 years ago and still going strong. Balance wasn't an issue

 

[Bob Gibson]

I would weld it all day long.

I would too! V the crack out carefully, get everything clean, weld with E 7018, may take multiple passes, then I would run a couple of beads at least 8-10 inches long perpendicular to the former crack to make the weld-affect zone (the weakest part of the weld) longer. You could also reinforce the part by adding additional plate or bar stock to both edges of the part centered on the hole and it should still be pretty balanced and present little or no vibration. Peening the weldment while it is cooling will also help strengthen and reduce weld stresses produced by the weldment. Most likely this is pretty much mild steel so the weld should be plenty strong if properly executed. More than likely the highest stress during operation is located at the location of the shaft the bar is attached to, and it is obviously the smallest cross-sectional area of the entire part. It looks like they adjusted for that by welding a reinforcement on the bar at that location, probably using mostly mild steel and conventional welding techniques - you may be able to add a similar reinforcement to the opposite side of the bar for additional strength.

 

[alpha&omega]

Did OP ever say what kind of shielding the BH had on it?

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I'd be very surprised if that Brush Hog didn't have at LEAST a 2:1 gearbox.

Heck, my El 'Cheapo Titan is 2:1.

Some of the old battleship cutters were 4:1.

Some of you guys need to stop and take a breath and remember what this application is.

It is NOT a finish mower.

 

[LD1]

If it ain't two to one I'll pass on it. I've handled too many to put up with that.

NO BODY makes a 6' cutter with a 2:1 gearbox. So I guess you will NEVER own a 6'

 

[LD1]

1.38:1, 1.68:1. Were J D ratios.

Have no idea what this reply was about. Or the part that was parsed into my quote.

But a 2:1 box on a 6' cutter would be a 20,347 fpm blade tip speed. And sorry.....show me some literature where someone offers one of those.

The highest you will find is ~16k-17k. IE: 1.5:1 on a 6' cutter

 

[rslee]

Did OP ever say what kind of shielding the BH had on it?

It doesn’t have any shielding. The previous owner/s beat the hell out of this thing over the years. The skids have been reinforced with new metal, there’s no deflectors on front or back, and it has no stump jumper. It’s just a deck, gearbox, and blades. I try not to abuse it, but it does hit the occasional rock. I usually avoid the stumps, but accidentally backed up onto this one that took it out. I run a slip clutch on the PTO shaft to help lesson some of the stress on the gearbox and shaft.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Accident going somewhere to happen; but, as a welder in my own right (certified years ago), with all the other issues; no stump jumper, previous weld, no shields!

Time to either find a good used one or a new replacement depending on pocketbook.


Ron

 

[ljgordon]

I have an old 6’ Bush Hog that has a cracked blade bar at the edge of the shaft hole for the gear box. It doesn’t have a stump jumper, and I hit the bar on a stump the last time I mowed. Is this something that can be safely welded to repair, or is that too risky? I know balancing will be an issue, but being right at the center hole should help. Otherwise, the part is $440 on an old cutter, so would be a total loss and would replace the bush hog.

Replace it. Believe me. I threw a blade and it went through the side of the 1/8" steel side plate. The vibrations sheared a 3/4" pin used to pull the brush hog.

 

[cathy liebchen]

Just buy a new part