Bush hog

[Joe Batt]

The chain was probably attached to the 3 point frame work, so that you can lift the mower. The wheel in the back should really only touch the ground occasionally, though before I bought a finish mower I would regularly run the wheel on the ground to cut the grass extra short.

New, the mower probably had a framework that attacked those pieces of angle on the deck to the 3 point framework. Mine broke as well, and I replaced it with chain, but my chain goes from the angle pieces to the 3 point, not from the back like that.

Not a great picture, but hopefully you get the idea:

 

[TerryR]

The chain was probably attached to the 3 point frame work, so that you can lift the mower. The wheel in the back should really only touch the ground occasionally, though before I bought a finish mower I would regularly run the wheel on the ground to cut the grass extra short.

New, the mower probably had a framework that attacked those pieces of angle on the deck to the 3 point framework. Mine broke as well, and I replaced it with chain, but my chain goes from the angle pieces to the 3 point, not from the back like that.

The photo in the original post looks very much like the Bush Hog brand mower I purchased new 28 years ago. It came from the factory with a chain like that shown in the photo. It was attached to the top of the 3 point frame, but I've sold the unit and can't recall exactly how it was attached there. I think it was to a bolt in the hole that's visible in the photo just below the attachment for the upper link.

Why do you say the wheel show only touch the ground occasionally? I always set it to run on the ground so it could follow the rolling terrain we have.

 

[airbiscuit]

 

[Joe Batt]

Why do you say the wheel show only touch the ground occasionally? I always set it to run on the ground so it could follow the rolling terrain we have.

I was told that when I bought it. The dealer was trying to stress that it is for taller rough cut, not for a lawn.

 

[TerryR]

I was told that when I bought it. The dealer was trying to stress that it is for taller rough cut, not for a lawn.

OK. Seems strange to me. You are supposed to control the height of the cut with the height of the 3-point in front and the height of the rear wheel. That's why they are adjustable.

 

[big bubba]

OP: glad the gears box is functional. may be worth checking to see the vent on the gearbox fill plug is working ok. glad it worked out for you

 

[Gord Baker]

I would worry more about the gearbox than the blades. Before I used it, I would try to tighten the blades but also, change the gearbox oil.

The blades are meant to spin freely as previously explained. Check to be sure the spring loaded clutch is not Stuck. Count number of threads visible on each bolt if you take it apart.

 

[Gord Baker]

Good morning, is it normal that these blades be loose?
I know nothing about this, I need one and it’s been sitting
The bolt/ nut is tight, just sloppy from wear.
Not stupid loose in my uneducated opinion but definitely wobbly.
Someone has just abused this thing
Thanks

Before you run it, carefully check the PTO shaft that may have zerk fittings in the Universal. Be careful that it does not hit the housing when you raise it. Run it LEVEL, not nose down.

 

[John_Mc]

Run it LEVEL, not nose down.

The manual with my old Woods BB60 say to set it up for 1/2" to 3/4" nose down. It seemed odd to me when I first read that, since finish mowers are usually set up level or slightly nose high, so I asked my dealer about it. He said running nose down tends to work better in heavy cutting conditions, since the blades tend to cut the stems only once, at the front of the deck. Running level or nose high means the blades come around for a second cut at the rear of the cutter. Running nose down lets you mow a bit faster, since it takes less HP. It also allows the blades some time to recover and reposition if they get swung back from hitting tough stems or rocks. He did say that in grassy situations, you might get a slightly better looking cut with the nose slightly high - IF you have the HP to keep the blade speed up.

I do not that the manual also says to set up slightly nose high for "shredding". It does not say how much higher, just says to experiment for best results in different conditions. The manual doesn't define what they mean by shredding.

 

[1930]

OP: glad the gears box is functional. may be worth checking to see the vent on the gearbox fill plug is working ok. glad it worked out for you

I haven’t seen a vent, I’ll have to look again this morning
Thanks