Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid?

   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #81  
We purchased a Husqvarna MZ54 last year. Lowes had one leftover that I got for about $2000 cheaper than a new one. Plus it had a full warranty and a new battery.
The reason I got this model was a friend of mine had the same mower for years and his sons did lawn care after school and summers to earn money. I asked him how often he serviced the hydros. To which he in all seriousness asked They can be serviced.
I took that to be a statement of how well they would hold up.
I took the money I saved and did some upgrades.
Vevor seat suspension
Bagger
Better tires
Air cleaner was free just had to make the mount and put a Uni in place of the cap.
Lights and switches.
Forgive the dirt and dust and the cats.

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That looks just like the one my dad had for about (5) years. My parents lawn is about 4 acres, and very flat. It worked very good until last season, when it wouldn’t start. It turned out that a plug under the switch had worked loose.

Getting it going involved taking out the (4) screws that hold the panel in, lifting that up (wasn’t real easy to do that) and pushing the plug back in. It loosened up several more times last season. I tried wrapping it with electric tape which helped a little, but it still didn’t start on occasion. We discovered that tapping the panel with a rubber mallet would get it to start if there was a “no go”, so he kept that mallet on it and used it for most starts last season.

He got a little too feeble to easily get on and off this year, so I took over the mowing duty. I did the spring service on it, installing new filters and oil change on the Kohler engine.

On my first cut, the grass had got quite high and a spring came off of the deck when I bogged down in a real thick spot. Fortunately, I found it, reinstalled and finished the cut. I had also needed the rubber mallet to get it to go.

On my second cut this spring, the motor started but the pto would not engage. I cut an acre, close to the house, with my old wheelhorse gear drive 12 hp lawn tractor, that I had given my dad to pull his roller, a few years ago. Cutting with that takes a long time, which I didn’t have working a full time job and having a big lawn of my own to take care of about 20 miles from my parents.

The following week, dreading cutting my patent’s whole 4 acres with the old wheelhorse (the back 3 acres now about a foot tall), I walked to the dealer across the street and traded the non-spinning mower blade MZ in on a new z-454 commercial model.

That thing has been working great, after 4 or 5 more cuts. It did bog down a little on the first one, chopping that foot tall grass down to 2” in a single cut. I went slow and got it done. I learned that it handles the real tall stuff much better if done in stages, starting with a max height (4-1/2”) cut. I did a little spot on the neighbors with it last time, that was 2-3 ft tall and hadn’t been cut yet this year.

Mowing with that new Husqvarna is so much fun, that I really look forward to the job every week. I’ve thought about getting the suspension seat for it, but that would just make me do the job faster, cutting down on my “fun time”.

Good luck with your MZ. How big of lawn are you cutting with it ?
 
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   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #82  
That looks just like the one my dad had for about (5) years. My parents lawn is about 4 acres, and very flat. It worked very good until last season, when it wouldn’t start. It turned out that a plug under the switch had worked loose.

Getting it going involved taking out the (4) screws that hold the panel in, lifting that up (wasn’t real easy to do that) and pushing the plug back in. It loosened up several more times last season. I tried wrapping it with electric tape which helped a little, but it still didn’t start on occasion. We discovered that tapping the panel with a rubber mallet would get it to start if there was a “no go”, so he kept that mallet on it and used it for most starts last season.

He got a little too feeble to easily get on and off this year, so I took over the mowing duty. I did the spring service on it, installing new filters and oil change on the Kohler engine.

On my first cut, the grass had got quite high and a spring came off of the deck when I bogged down in a real thick spot. Fortunately, I found it, reinstalled and finished the cut. I had also needed the rubber mallet to get it to go.

On my second cut this spring, the motor started but the pto would not engage. I cut an acre, close to the house, with my old wheelhorse gear drive 12 hp lawn tractor, that I had given my dad to pull his roller, a few years ago. Cutting with that takes a long time, which I didn’t have working a full time job and having a big lawn of my own to take care of about 20 miles from my parents.

The following week, dreading cutting my patent’s whole 4 acres with the old wheelhorse (the back 3 acres now about a foot tall), I walked to the dealer across the street and traded the non-spinning mower blade MZ in on a new z-454 commercial model.

That thing has been working great, after 4 or 5 more cuts. It did bog down a little on the first one, chopping that foot tall grass down to 2” in a single cut. I went slow and got it done. I learned that it handles the real tall stuff much better if done in stages, starting with a max height (4-1/2”) cut. I did a little spot on the neighbors with it last time, that was 2-3 ft tall and hadn’t been cut yet this year.

Mowing with that new Husqvarna is so much fun, that I really look forward to the job every week. I’ve thought about getting the suspension seat for it, but that would just make me do the job faster, cutting down on my “fun time”.

Good luck with your MZ. How big of lawn are you cutting with it ?

I cut about 2 1/2 acres counting both locations.
Mine has the Kawasaki engine.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #83  
On my first cut, the grass had got quite high and a spring came off of the deck when I bogged down in a real thick spot. Fortunately, I found it, reinstalled and finished the cut.
:ROFLMAO: Those things can really go quite a distance, and be awfully hard to find, when they do! I had the idler tension spring pop off my Deere deck once, and the damn thing must have gone close to 80 feet before the grass slowed it to a stop. Given I didn’t see it fly, I had no idea even which direction to start hunting.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #84  
:ROFLMAO: Those things can really go quite a distance, and be awfully hard to find, when they do! I had the idler tension spring pop off my Deere deck once, and the damn thing must have gone close to 80 feet before the grass slowed it to a stop. Given I didn’t see it fly, I had no idea even which direction to start hunting.
I was lucky that time. When the blades stopped turning, I pulled it into my dad’s barn, thinking I’d need his backup mower (wheelhouse gear drive 48” cut lawn tractor). When I noted the missing spring on the Husqvarna zero turn deck, I walked back to where it bogged down and it was laying right there.

I was able to put it back on and finish the last acre with it. The next time I went to use it though, I could not get the pto to engage at all. The dealer thought it would probably need a new clutch. I think it’s more likely some other electrical mishap, caused by all the hammer pounding of the switch panel, that was needed so often to get the motor to crank.

Not my problem anymore, since the trade for the new z-454 commercial model. I’ll have to follow up with the dealer and see what he needed to do to fix it. Naturally, this tune if year he is swamped, so no idea when he will have time to get to it.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #85  
The next time I went to use it though, I could not get the pto to engage at all. The dealer thought it would probably need a new clutch.
One of the peculiarities of the Kawasaki V-twin used on most ZTR's, and maybe the Briggs is similar, is that the muffler is right next to the clutch. Even more importantly, the welds between the muffler and the mounting bracket thereof, point right at the clutch.

Of course, when a muffler fails, it's usually right at these welds, sometimes directing hot exhaust gas right at the clutch. And it's not always obvious, since these machines are so damn noisy anyway, and a small leaky break in the weld might only be detected when running the machine in the dark.

I actually had this happen to me, I inherited my ZTR with the house when it was about 4 years old, and went thru about 3 clutches in the first five or six years before finding the reason why.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #86  
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid? #87  
One of the peculiarities of the Kawasaki V-twin used on most ZTR's, and maybe the Briggs is similar, is that the muffler is right next to the clutch. Even more importantly, the welds between the muffler and the mounting bracket thereof, point right at the clutch.

Of course, when a muffler fails, it's usually right at these welds, sometimes directing hot exhaust gas right at the clutch. And it's not always obvious, since these machines are so damn noisy anyway, and a small leaky break in the weld might only be detected when running the machine in the dark.

I actually had this happen to me, I inherited my ZTR with the house when it was about 4 years old, and went thru about 3 clutches in the first five or six years before finding the reason why.
The residential model MZ-454 had a Kohler engine, the new commercial z-454 has the Kawasaki. I am interested to find out if the clutch was bad or not though. Hopefully, I’ll find out before fall.

The dealer told me that parts and labor clutch replacement was about $ 500. The upgrade to the new commercial model was just under $ 5k with trade, including 8 % sales tax.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid?
  • Thread Starter
#88  
I was a Husqvarna dealer for 12 years, just changed careers a year ago. Trans axles are used in lawn tractors. ZTRs use 2 pump/motor units, at around 1000# a piece, giving you nearly 2000#.
As for the OP, If you went for a Husky, I would say a minimum of a Z4xx series, it is a robust residential unit. If I were doing what you are, I would buy a Walker, hands down.
I've never heard of Walker. At first I thought it would be something you walked behind until I looked it up.

The only disadvantage I see with it is that the dealer is over an hour away - I haven't looked at price.
 
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid?
  • Thread Starter
#89  
   / Buying a ZTR, what should I look for, or avoid?
  • Thread Starter
#90  
I bought a Cub Cadet ZTR1 50 a couple of weeks ago. It lasted for about 90 minutes. The transmisson belt came off and to fix it, the mower has to go to a service center. Needless to say I returned the mower for a refund.
Anything can have infant mortality, but the fact that it requires a service center to reset the belt is a red flag for me.
 

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