bx22 FEL problem

[copperhead1967]

Hi there all wise kubota owners. I have a problem with my FEL on my BX22. Its 3 years old and seems to have lost a lot of it's loading and digging power.
When the tractor was new it would cut thru anything as long as I didn't bury the blade in the ground. Now it bogs down and spins the tires even trying to pop out a small sapling. It also will "flop" or "roll" when trying to back drag gravel or what have you. It seems that the tractor used to lift it front tires up any way you pushed down on the FEL bucket.
I remember reading a post about taking apart something in the FEL control valve do hicky. water getting in it? I also wonder if the trip pressure can be adjusted on the FEL and wonder how to do this. Thanks for your help in advance.

 

[copperhead1967]

Hi there all wise kubota owners. I have a problem with my FEL on my BX22. Its 3 years old and seems to have lost a lot of it's loading and digging power.
When the tractor was new it would cut thru anything as long as I didn't bury the blade in the ground. Now it bogs down and spins the tires even trying to pop out a small sapling. It also will "flop" or "roll" when trying to back drag gravel or what have you. It seems that the tractor used to lift it front tires up any way you pushed down on the FEL bucket.
I remember reading a post about taking apart something in the FEL control valve do hicky. water getting in it? I also wonder if the trip pressure can be adjusted on the FEL and wonder how to do this. Thanks for your help in advance.

 

[rbarker]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I remember reading a post about taking apart something in the FEL control valve do hicky. water getting in it? I also wonder if the trip pressure can be adjusted on the FEL and wonder how to do this. Thanks for your help in advance. )</font>

I think the water issue you are thinking of resulted in a loader that wouldn't move in one direction (can't remember which). I assume that you haven't seen any leaks or anything so I wonder if maybe you have a bad relief valve. That might make the loader less powerful by cutting in too soon./forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Keep us posted on what you find out!

 

[rbarker]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I remember reading a post about taking apart something in the FEL control valve do hicky. water getting in it? I also wonder if the trip pressure can be adjusted on the FEL and wonder how to do this. Thanks for your help in advance. )</font>

I think the water issue you are thinking of resulted in a loader that wouldn't move in one direction (can't remember which). I assume that you haven't seen any leaks or anything so I wonder if maybe you have a bad relief valve. That might make the loader less powerful by cutting in too soon./forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Keep us posted on what you find out!

 

[ericbx1500]

The water issue is related to the control valve (joystick) not locking in the float position. Condensation would build up in the two caps where the detent balls are located. The fix is very easy. Just unscrew both caps and spray some penetrating oil inside caps until about half full and let it soak for about 30 min. Then before I screwed them back on I pumped three squirts of grease into the bottom of each cap and also smeared some grease on the two springs that are exposed when you unscrew the caps. I did notice last season that taking the joystick out of the float position was getting harder. After doing this fix the float position (valve) works better then the day I got my bx. Copperhead this doesn’t seem to be the problem you are having but I just wanted to answer your water question.

 

[ericbx1500]

The water issue is related to the control valve (joystick) not locking in the float position. Condensation would build up in the two caps where the detent balls are located. The fix is very easy. Just unscrew both caps and spray some penetrating oil inside caps until about half full and let it soak for about 30 min. Then before I screwed them back on I pumped three squirts of grease into the bottom of each cap and also smeared some grease on the two springs that are exposed when you unscrew the caps. I did notice last season that taking the joystick out of the float position was getting harder. After doing this fix the float position (valve) works better then the day I got my bx. Copperhead this doesn’t seem to be the problem you are having but I just wanted to answer your water question.

 

[Jimbrown]

The bucket flop is quite common. Some have it some seem not to. Mine has done it since new. The answer from Kubota was to run more RPM. I find that if just raise it full height and cycle the the bucket full dump and back that mine stops untill I turn the engine off. I am sure the problem is int he valve body but no one seems to know how to fix it.

 

[Jimbrown]

The bucket flop is quite common. Some have it some seem not to. Mine has done it since new. The answer from Kubota was to run more RPM. I find that if just raise it full height and cycle the the bucket full dump and back that mine stops untill I turn the engine off. I am sure the problem is int he valve body but no one seems to know how to fix it.

 

[copperhead1967]

Ok guys thanks for the input so far. I'll try to grease the springs and also try to cycle the bucket to see if that helps with the "floppy" bucket loader.( Too bad they don't make a blue pill for tractors /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) I have some BH work to do today along the driveway cleaning out a drainage ditch. I will be using the loader to clear the muck out so will let you know if it helps any.

 

[copperhead1967]

Ok guys thanks for the input so far. I'll try to grease the springs and also try to cycle the bucket to see if that helps with the "floppy" bucket loader.( Too bad they don't make a blue pill for tractors /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) I have some BH work to do today along the driveway cleaning out a drainage ditch. I will be using the loader to clear the muck out so will let you know if it helps any.

 

[Mike_Lipke]

Ask your dealer how to set your hydraulic pressure to specification. I think it is spose to be at 1850#.
Your hydraulic system on that unit runs everything.
It is set by putting a guage on any hydraulic hose ( I bought a 3000# guage from the dealer for $20, and used a plumbing tee off a fel hose)

Mine was at 1725#, I set it to 1850#, and wow. What a difference.

The pressure is set by putting in shims under a spring, and it doesn't take much to make a huge difference. Shims come in .002, .004 and .006 thicknesses, and cost about seventeen cents each. They are about 3/8" in diameter. Buy one of each.

They are under a a big hex thingy about an inch across, on a valve assy on the left side of the rear end. If you take your tire off, it is real easy to see and get at. The hex thingy is pointing to the rear of the tractor at about 2 oclock. Clean all the debris away before taking it off. You will know it is the right one if it has a very stiff spring inside. There are usually several shims in there already from the factory, but you may think that there are none, as they don't fall out readily, sort of stuck up there with hst fluid. The spring weakens with time, and allows the pressure to bleed off below spec. If it is off even a hundred pounds, it is huge.
You will not even lose a teaspoon of oil, assuming the engine is off.

Buy the guage to be sure, but check your pressure. BTW, whatever line you hook the guage to has to be energised to get a reading, with engine at full rpm. In other words, your fel has to be against something that won't give, like the ground or a tree, and then see where the guage sits.

 

[Mike_Lipke]

Ask your dealer how to set your hydraulic pressure to specification. I think it is spose to be at 1850#.
Your hydraulic system on that unit runs everything.
It is set by putting a guage on any hydraulic hose ( I bought a 3000# guage from the dealer for $20, and used a plumbing tee off a fel hose)

Mine was at 1725#, I set it to 1850#, and wow. What a difference.

The pressure is set by putting in shims under a spring, and it doesn't take much to make a huge difference. Shims come in .002, .004 and .006 thicknesses, and cost about seventeen cents each. They are about 3/8" in diameter. Buy one of each.

They are under a a big hex thingy about an inch across, on a valve assy on the left side of the rear end. If you take your tire off, it is real easy to see and get at. The hex thingy is pointing to the rear of the tractor at about 2 oclock. Clean all the debris away before taking it off. You will know it is the right one if it has a very stiff spring inside. There are usually several shims in there already from the factory, but you may think that there are none, as they don't fall out readily, sort of stuck up there with hst fluid. The spring weakens with time, and allows the pressure to bleed off below spec. If it is off even a hundred pounds, it is huge.
You will not even lose a teaspoon of oil, assuming the engine is off.

Buy the guage to be sure, but check your pressure. BTW, whatever line you hook the guage to has to be energised to get a reading, with engine at full rpm. In other words, your fel has to be against something that won't give, like the ground or a tree, and then see where the guage sits.

 

[copperhead1967]

Thanks Mike, I'll try what you said when I get a chance.
Cycling the loader and bucket seemed to help with the floppy bucket. I had been doing lots of BH work when I noticed the floppy bucket so maybe that had something to do with the problem.
I got more woes today but that is a seperate post. see "bx22 FEL cracked" /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[copperhead1967]

Thanks Mike, I'll try what you said when I get a chance.
Cycling the loader and bucket seemed to help with the floppy bucket. I had been doing lots of BH work when I noticed the floppy bucket so maybe that had something to do with the problem.
I got more woes today but that is a seperate post. see "bx22 FEL cracked" /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[ballroger]

hey,
i own a 2000 bx2200 and had that same issue with the loader. i had knocked off one of the stops that is welded onto the loader arms. there are supposed to be two. they are a small rectangle of steel welded on the arms to stop the rotation of the bucket when you are trying to push the loader in front of you. i simply cut another piece of steel the same size as the one left on the other arm and was back in business right away. i don't remember if someone told me to look for that or i just saw the weld joint with nothing attached.

good luck

 

[ballroger]

hey,
i own a 2000 bx2200 and had that same issue with the loader. i had knocked off one of the stops that is welded onto the loader arms. there are supposed to be two. they are a small rectangle of steel welded on the arms to stop the rotation of the bucket when you are trying to push the loader in front of you. i simply cut another piece of steel the same size as the one left on the other arm and was back in business right away. i don't remember if someone told me to look for that or i just saw the weld joint with nothing attached.

good luck

 

[copperhead1967]

Hey Mike, boy did you create a headache for the parts guy at the dealership. After about 45 minutes of searching he finally came across a part number to order the shims. He said that they never had anyone ask about it before. I asked him what they did if a customer brought it in for hydo adjustment. I'm not sure but I think it mentions it at least once or twice in the owners manual. It may even be a scheduled maintenance item?
The "thingy" is the hydo pump assembly and the part that the shims go into is some sort of pressure releaf valve. He offered to sell me the whole unit for $37. I don't think that is necessary and how do you know if the hydro is set right just by replacing the whole assembly ????
I didn't have much luck with the guage. I even checked at Tractor Supply no luck there. The only hydo guage they had went up to 60 lbs. I'll look around on the net for a source.
Do you have the actual procedure from the shop manual? It sounds like a worthwhile adjustment. If anyone has a shop manual and can send the hydo info I'd be very greatful.

 

[copperhead1967]

Hey Mike, boy did you create a headache for the parts guy at the dealership. After about 45 minutes of searching he finally came across a part number to order the shims. He said that they never had anyone ask about it before. I asked him what they did if a customer brought it in for hydo adjustment. I'm not sure but I think it mentions it at least once or twice in the owners manual. It may even be a scheduled maintenance item?
The "thingy" is the hydo pump assembly and the part that the shims go into is some sort of pressure releaf valve. He offered to sell me the whole unit for $37. I don't think that is necessary and how do you know if the hydro is set right just by replacing the whole assembly ????
I didn't have much luck with the guage. I even checked at Tractor Supply no luck there. The only hydo guage they had went up to 60 lbs. I'll look around on the net for a source.
Do you have the actual procedure from the shop manual? It sounds like a worthwhile adjustment. If anyone has a shop manual and can send the hydo info I'd be very greatful.

 

[BX2230Dude]

I've got a copy of the BX23 service manual. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you what you need.

 

[BX2230Dude]

I've got a copy of the BX23 service manual. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you what you need.