BX24 Brakes

   / BX24 Brakes #1  

ejnichol

Silver Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
188
I just took delivery of a BX24 Friday. While using it on a slope uphill from the lake it started to get away from me.

On one occasion the fel hitting a tree stoped me. I was changing from high range to low to accomodate the low speed manuevering about to take place.

Several other instances it involved changing ranges while still in 4wd. Scarry stuff. After the Friday work, I climbed under machine and looked at Owners Manual. Seems brake has too much travel like 3.5 - 4 inches. Book says 1 - 1.4. Coolant was consideralbly below low level mark.

Dealer made mistake of telling me hes sold over 100 of these and never had brake problem. Between the brakes and the coolant they don't do much presales check on these

I gather from reading other threads that brakes aren't great and only on two wheels. These are about worthless and only of any use on flat ground.
 
   / BX24 Brakes #2  
I would recommend that you never change ranges on any slope unless stopped with the bucket or something else to hold you in place. The hydro is all the bake you need. My brake if for parking only and pretty useless on any slope with a load. Once under way, the hyrdostatic transmission is all that I have ever needed.
 
   / BX24 Brakes #3  
Good advice to avoid range changes on a hill all together, and if you need to, put the bucket or other implement on the ground and stomp on the brake.

Also, I never operate on any decent slope without being in 4 wheel drive, I was mowing once and forgot to put it in 4 wheel, I went for a good ride and all but flipped the machine as I fished tailed down my front yard. Lesson learned.
 
   / BX24 Brakes #4  
ejnichol, you are correct. For a first time user, operating a BX22, BX23 or BX24 on a slope might be a very dangerous experience, as you have pointed out. The brakes by themselves leave much to be desired. The best braking is provided by the HST in 4WD - when they are engaged.

However once mastered, these incredibly agile units can be surprisingly sure-footed and safe on hillsides. I have used all 3 models in 4WD mode on slopes with inclines as high as 28 degrees. The differential lock provides added traction when needed. I place the HST on "low" before I start up the hill, and I never go to "neutral" once on the slope. When I stop, I engage the brake and lower the FEL. With a properly weighted belly mower, these BX units (with FEL and BH removed) can cut across slopes with surprisingly steep inclines as well. I have found both "turf" and "R4" tires to have excellent grip.
 
   / BX24 Brakes
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I check the manual to be sure and it says "1 - 1.4 inches freeplay" I've got way too much freeplay. 3 -4. The parking brake pawl only catches the last tooth.

I keep it in 4wd on slopes. I just never thought about changing ranges with foot on brake would be a problem. Hopefully dealer adjusting brake will make some improvement.

I've used my neighbors JD Hydro 4wd, i believe its a 410. Same application same operating procedure. His let me do whatever on slope as long as i kept pressure on brake pedal. I'll see what dealers adjusting does. Wish I had demo's unit before buying.

Machine is pretty stout as a pulling drive train. Lashed with chain two young trees together and hooked to bh bucket. Pulled them to large lot clearing pile down road no real problem. Impressive to see it pull them individually out of ditch at bottom of lot. Normally I would have had to cut with saw and carry them out piece by piece.
 
   / BX24 Brakes #6  
The brake on the BX is mainly for parking. All brakeing whilst moving in fwd or rev is done via the HST.
Likes been said, you should never change ranges while on a slope. You should shift into low before you start up/down so you won't loose the brakeing of the HST.
Theres been several posts of folks loosing control and zooming down a hill when they've tried to change gears.

Your brake could very well need adj., bt keep in mind that even a properly adjusted brake won't stop a BX once the momentum picks up when it's free wheeling down a hill.

re. compareing the operation of a subcut to a garden tractor is apples to oranges, your BX probably weighs in around 1000lbs heavier or there abouts and that additional weight changes everything :D

I rarely use my foot brake for anything more than a parking brake and it's not very good on a steep incline.

Be careful
 
   / BX24 Brakes
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Volfandt said:
.

re. compareing the operation of a subcut to a garden tractor is apples to oranges, your BX probably weighs in around 1000lbs heavier or there abouts and that additional weight changes everything :D

Neighbors JD isn't a garden tractor. Slightly taller bigger than bx24. Has a yanmar about same displ as bx. Probably gave wrong model #. Definately better brakes. Lawsuit territory. Kubota should rename or remove reference to brake pedal and call it 'slow down assist on a good day'
 
   / BX24 Brakes #8  
Neighbors JD isn't a garden tractor. Slightly taller bigger than bx24.
Probably a 4100 which is comparable to the B7610.
If so those brakes are vastly different from the BX in that they are designed for independant operation and can lock either or both brakes. They are called "turning" brakes, meaning you can lock one side which will spin the tractor sharply to the locked side, practically spinning the tractor on a dime.

I agree the brake on the BX should be renamed, they should call it a parking brake at the least as that is all it is.
 
   / BX24 Brakes #9  
i was told by the dealer when i bough my bx24, that the brakes work through the gear, and when you change from hi-low, or low-hi,you are disengaging the gears so out of gear, theres no brakes.
 
   / BX24 Brakes #10  
One thing to remember with these tractors is that the engine is used to drive the hydraulic pump, not move the tractor directly. We've had posts of people saying how the tractor "took off downhill" on them. The natural reaction would be to lower your RPM's (take your foot off the gas like in your car) but what you need to do is INCREASE your RPM's to increase your hydraulic pressure available to the HST and the brakes.
 

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