BX24 diff lock disaster ... How many others have had this problem?

[GolfAddict]

Define "spinning"? I mean, if you are stopped, and the pins are not lined up with the mating holes, pressing on the pedal will not engage the components? However, if you maintain a light pressure on the pedal and move slowly (with the back wheels turning at different speeds) then it should eventually engage. Right?

That's how I've gotten mine to engage, but kind of paranoid about it now...:confused2:

 

[RaydaKub]

That's how I've gotten mine to engage, but kind of paranoid about it now...:confused2:

Me too. If the pins don't engage when you are stopped, that's the only way you can get the rotation done so that they do. I guess just let the one wheel spin very slowly ?

 

[Volfandt]

The way I engage it, and have been successful in doing it this way, is to stop the wheels from turning, engage the diff lock then very slowly depress the treadle pedal until you "fell" the pin engage, (you can tell when it engages) then go for it.
It's rare that I use it tho, normally I'll go to 4WD when I loose traction. I've found that if 4wd doesn't get me out, it's time to pull it out w/the F150 4x4 Offroad

Dave

 

[Texas Fella]

Seriously, some one on here really said that there is a design flaw because when the pin breaks it can wedge in the bottom and break the case???? A manufacturer can not plan on every stupid thing that customers do to there machines. Diff pins break from people engaging them while the wheels are turning 99% of the time. If you are in that 1%, sound like you are having a bad day. As for breakage after the fact, it is a fact of life. Again, the manufacturer can not make room in the bottom of the case for any part in the transmission that may come apart in any circumstance. As for larger pins, in my experience, these pins are fine for the hp of machine they are used on. If you make the pins larger, then the next weakest thing breaks. Operate it as intended and most of these issues would go away. Not sure why everything now days is the manufactures fault, a lemon, or poor design. Pay the bill and move on.

 

[Texas Fella]

As for engaging the diff lock, here are good instructions:

1. Let the wheels come to a complete stop.
2. Press the diff lock pedal (or lever, etc.).
3. Slowly allow the tractor to move forward (or reverse) at least 1 full revolution of the tire.
4. Do what you need to do to get unstuck.

The main thing is that you can not engage one while a wheel is turning at any real speed. The "shock" load to the pin is too much.

 

[GolfAddict]

As for engaging the diff lock, here are good instructions:

1. Let the wheels come to a complete stop.
2. Press the diff lock pedal (or lever, etc.).
3. Slowly allow the tractor to move forward (or reverse) at least 1 full revolution of the tire.
4. Do what you need to do to get unstuck.

The main thing is that you can not engage one while a wheel is turning at any real speed. The "shock" load to the pin is too much.

I've never actually used the diff lock to become unstuck, just to get the extra traction when mowing up or down a fairly steep slope, at an angle to the slope. The uphill tire will break traction. If I have a bit of pressure on the lever, it slips down into place and I can climb or descend the slope no problem. I was using it instead of 4WD so that when I get to the end of a pass and spin around to come back I get the tighter turning radius when in 2WD. With the way this little BX24 is built like a tank, never imagined the diff lock mechanism would be a little bit fragile... thus, my comment about being a bit paranoid to use it this way anymore.

This is my first Kubota. The only ag tractor I kept from when I was farming is a JD 4020, about a 1967 if I remember correctly. It's 2WD and also has a diff lock you engage by pressing on it with your heel. I've had to quick stomp on that thing countless times over the years when needed (breaking traction under a load) and never had an issue, but certainly that was built differently - I don't think it is a pin that engages.

Anyway, this thread has been pretty valuable to me as I know to treat the diff lock much more carefully - it isn't a big ol' ag tractor after all...

 

[samofsweden]

Lock the diff BEFORE you get stuck, then you dont get stuck, very simple.
Learn to read the ground and plan your driving and have right amount of speed/ momentum/gear. Basic offroad knowledge. As with all operator locable diffs, you should lock the diff when both wheels travel at the same speed, slightly steer back and forth to engaged or disengaged. Specifc operation with the BX24 difflock as member Volfandt described.

 

[Ledge End]

1 -Seriously, some one on here really said that there is a design flaw because when the pin breaks it can wedge in the bottom and break the case????
2 - A manufacturer can not plan on every stupid thing that customers do to there machines.
3 - Diff pins break from people engaging them while the wheels are turning 99% of the time. If you are in that 1%, sound like you are having a bad day.
4 - As for breakage after the fact, it is a fact of life. Again, the manufacturer can not make room in the bottom of the case for any part in the transmission that may come apart in any circumstance. As for larger pins, in my experience, these pins are fine for the hp of machine they are used on. If you make the pins larger, then the next weakest thing breaks. Operate it as intended and most of these issues would go away.
5 - Not sure why everything now days is the manufactures fault, a lemon, or poor design. Pay the bill and move on.

1) Seriously, it sounds like a design flaw to me. If the pin was designed to shear so that other parts do not fail then provision should be made not to destroy the other parts.
2) I agree, however, this does not sound like someone doing something stupid to their machine. It sounds like normal operation to me.
3) It has already been noted that the only way the Diff Pins engage is with the wheels turning.
4) Making room in the bottom of the case for ANY part is not what is being discussed, just the part which is the weakest link and meant to give before the other more valuable parts.
5) When damage occurs during normal operation we naturally look to the manufacturer. Normal operation results in wear and tear, not major damage.

 

[Ledge End]

Lock the diff BEFORE you get stuck, then you dont get stuck, very simple.
Learn to read the ground and plan your driving and have right amount of speed/ momentum/gear. Basic offroad knowledge. As with all operator locable diffs, you should lock the diff when both wheels travel at the same speed, slightly steer back and forth to engaged or disengaged. Specifc operation with the BX24 difflock as member Volfandt described.

Perhaps if we just avoid any situation where the tires could spin we wouldn't get stuck AND we wouldn't need a Diff Lock - a win win situation.

 

[Ledge End]

I use the locking capability regularly on a particular small area of my lawn where I need to mow a fairly steep section at an angle. On the way up and the way down I'll keep a gentle pressure on the locking lever with my heel. Often it will engage when the high rear wheel starts to loose a bit of traction. The lever will press down and "slip" into diff lock smoothly. So, of course, I am engaging the lock while the wheels are spinning... didn't realize what a no-no that can be. I am thinking I'll just use 4wd from now on.

Addict, Sounds like very reasonable use to me. On an older tractor that had independent brakes (a foot pedal for each wheel) I used to feather the high wheel to do the same thing but the Diff Lock method sounds better because the tire would never spin continuously and the method doesn't require as much attention to the up hill tire. The independent brakes make for tight turns at the end of the row too. :thumbsup: