BX25 HST Fan Replacement

[dmacneil]

Thanks dmacneil

They are the best pictures of the fan removed I have seen.

I would like to ask a question. The bolt that holds the shaft to the splines , how do you get to that bolt? It seems the fan shrouds it and is tight up against the HST cooling fins.

Thanks on the pics. I would've taken more but the battery kept dying on my old camera.

Because I had removed the floor pan access to the shaft retaining bolt was easy. There is room between the cooling fins to access the retaining bolt (see photo). Come to think of it getting access to this bolt would be quite the challenge without having the floor pan removed.

(Edit) I realized last night that information here is misleading. In order to get to the bolt from above you not only have to remove the floor pan but also the rear fender. Removing the floor pan alone does not expose the area to access the shaft bolt. But removing the pan does allow you to take off the rear fender (after removing the ROPS and seat) which *then* allows you to easily access the shaft bolt.
HTH

 

[dmacneil]

When you lifted that engine, was the radiator and fan a problem? Or is it all one assembly? How long did it take to get the floor off?

The rad was a bit of a problem. The engine and rad are not one assembly - I'm not sure if this changed with the BX25. However, I can't believe it was only 2 days ago and I can't remember all the details. I'm either getting old or work is really stressing me out. What I remember:

I had started by draining some of the rad fluid and detaching the upper rad hose, my hope was that I could take the weight of the engine on the hoist and then slide the engine out so the fan wouldn't interfere with the plastic shroud. But this wouldn't work. I had to lift the engine a few inches to clear the engine mount posts - so couldn't do this without the fan interfering with the rad shroud. So I reconnected the rad hose and disconnected the shroud (4 bolts). From the looks of the pics I think that allowed the rad and the shroud to move. Note though, that these are a separate assembly - only attached to the engine through the rad hoses. I manually moved the rad assembly myself along with the engine. Both of these only had to move up a few inches and then towards the front. You really have to watch for which wires and hoses needed to be disconnected to do it safely. I recall having to disconnect the starter wire - engine grounds - diesel return and feed lines... hmm.. and had to clip a couple of tie-ons.

It really wasn't too bad - just had to move slowly to be sure I got everything. I was pretty impressed with how 4 bolts freed the engine - and another 4 bolts for the rad shroud (and rad?). Anyone whose done any major car or truck engine work will really appreciate how easy it all comes apart.

Let me know if you want more confirmation - I'll take a close look at the bota tomorrow when I'm out in the garage to see if I can confirm if the rad and shroud are all one assmebly.. they must be, but unbelieveably - I just can't recall. :confused2:


Removing the floor wasn't bad either. The trick was to remove the forward/reverse pedal from the get-go. I didn't at first - which pretty much makes it impossible to do. The nice thing is that removing these pedals doesn't affect any of the sensitivity or adjust the function of these pedals. There are two bolts which attach the pedals to the "important" stuff. The bolts holding the floor pan on were locked on tight. They must use some freaky locktite in assembly because some of them took a lot of force to break free. Toughest part of this job was getting the pan on and off without scratching it. Best with 2 people.

 

[radioman]

Order a new skid plate or make one yet ? sorry, couldn't resist.

I feel your pain. floor pan isnt too bad, Had mine off once. I haven't taken the rest of the stuff off yet, hope I never need to. knock on wood.

 

[dmacneil]

Order a new skid plate or make one yet ? sorry, couldn't resist.

I feel your pain. floor pan isnt too bad, Had mine off once. I haven't taken the rest of the stuff off yet, hope I never need to. knock on wood.

lol... not yet :ashamed:

 

[lamboron]

My BX25 has a fan guard. My problem is after working all day the HY fluid smell
is sickening. Where is the transmission vent?
Ron

 

[Carl_NH]

Ron,

Under the seat - does the smell of burned diesel also bother you?

The fumes from the hydro oil should not be offensive unless you have burned the fluid by overheating it. Normally its just a light oil smell and not at all intrusive when you are working outside.

Carl

 

[lamboron]

No I have already removed the exhaust extension so it doesn't blow back at me. The UDT fluid does get warm. You can feel the cylinders. Its just obnoxious if I'm sitting in the sun smelling it all day. If I can locate the vent I'll run a hose to the front sot it's not in the back. Just a side note, whoever designed the seat turning method should be sent to prison.

Ron

 

[CHDinCT]

Well, on the vent, I've seen it stated here more than once the BX vent is that red button by the 3PH top link bracket. Don't see how it works and I've never seen any fluid come out of mine. Take that for what it's worth.

 

[Snl1960]

Thanks on the pics. I would've taken more but the battery kept dying on my old camera.

Because I had removed the floor pan access to the shaft retaining bolt was easy. There is room between the cooling fins to access the retaining bolt (see photo). Come to think of it getting access to this bolt would be quite the challenge without having the floor pan removed.

(Edit) I realized last night that information here is misleading. In order to get to the bolt from above you not only have to remove the floor pan but also the rear fender. Removing the floor pan alone does not expose the area to access the shaft bolt. But removing the pan does allow you to take off the rear fender (after removing the ROPS and seat) which *then* allows you to easily access the shaft bolt.
HTH

I have bolt out and can move shaft some. But not enough to get it off pump. Do I need to unbolt fron engine also. Have fan off, bolts removed,bolt out of spline of pump.what next?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Seems like I read on a previous post that there is enough end play in the shaft to get the fan in and out by pulling it apart with a come-along, less than 1 hour job.

I did have mine replaced by KTAC but it was part of a $8K damage repair job; so, the cost was lost in the 3 page invoice.

I am surprised some enterprising soul like Bro-Tex hasn't devised a two piece fan by now. That would be worth several times the part cost of $11. Of course they want to sell their bottom armor.

Ron