BX25 Squealing when using 3PT hitch

[CHDinCT]

So in the picture with the red arrow showing the location he said that the lower port/plug is where the valve is located but in the next picture there is two plugs layed out. The other longer one looks like the upper port/plug, what is this portion called? There is only one bypass valve, correct?

Well, I haven't messed with the relief valve on the BX but I did adjust the valve on my old JD and it looked like the valve on the right with the spring. I believe the spring tension is what closes the valve until the specified pressure is exceeded thereby compressing the spring and opening the valve (but I'm sure you knew that). Long way of saying, I'm not sure what that other valve is.

If your squealing is that bad, I would, like you, not be happy to just ignore it. Sounds like some restriction somewhere in your system which could be hard to pin point. Good luck with it.

 

[RayCo]

Just a follow up. I had my bx25 at the dealer today for the hydrolic noise. After almost 45 min digging and moving around I got it to make the noise. The mechanic looked it over and checked my pressure it was only 1400psi. He raised the pressure and tried again and still made the noise. He and the other mechanic agreed its in the relief valve when the fluid gets real hot and assured me its normal. It could be a variety of things from a slightly over tighted hydrolic line and just plain vibration from the relief valve. I am satisfied with his assessment after watching the whole time and agree nothing to worry about. Just an FYI. Mike R.

Thank you for this info. FWIW, this also happens on my BX24. This brings me back to one of my original complaints, and that is the lack of a transmission temperature gauge. It's very weak that there is none.

 

[radioman]

have you replaced the transmission fluid filter and cleaned strainer yet as a precaution? I am curoius if there are any metal shavings in the strainer.

 

[Newfiestang50]

have you replaced the transmission fluid filter and cleaned strainer yet as a precaution? I am curoius if there are any metal shavings in the strainer.

I have not lately, but it was done at 50hrs. Tractor now has approx. 175hrs. I am however planning on performing some of my own tests prior to bring the BX to the dealer.

- I plan on removing the bypass valve for inspection since the dealer mentioned possible o-ring failure may be the cause.

- I plan on removing the QC that you have to make to complete the hydraulic power beyond loop when the BH is removed. The reason I will do this is because my BX never made this squealing sound until I removed the BH for the first time and for this reason I have been suspicious about this QC ever since. Once removed I will complete the loop with the QC not installed. In other words I will connect the hose directly using the appropriate JIC fittings and use the BX in a way that would normally cause the squealing. If the sound does not appear I will assume that QC is bad in some way.

Any more suggestions for testing/troubleshooting would be appreciated.

 

[micky]

The mechanic did pull out the relief valve,(if that is where the shims go for pressure). He said everything in there looked great. Now I will say this. For reference my machine has only about 21hrs on it 1 month old. The noise can get softer if I keep hitting the relief on the three point at the top of the range. Very strange. But I do agree with him (mechanic) as to the noise being based on a combination of the hydro oil getting thinner while hot and the relieve valve fluttering. Kinda hard to explain. But this is why I took it in today for my piece of mind and a warranty claim for future reference. The dealer does seem to stand behind there product and wanted to make it right. I guess time will only tell. Mike R.

 

[ruralruss]

My B3200 also makes a loud squealing sound sometime after some heavy use of the 3 pt lift. It sounds like cavitation to me. When it happens the lift does not work at all. It is very loud and can not be a good thing. I am about ready for my 50 hour service. I will bring it up to the dealer.

Russ

 

[radioman]

I have not lately, but it was done at 50hrs. Tractor now has approx. 175hrs. I am however planning on performing some of my own tests prior to bring the BX to the dealer.

- I plan on removing the bypass valve for inspection since the dealer mentioned possible o-ring failure may be the cause.

- I plan on removing the QC that you have to make to complete the hydraulic power beyond loop when the BH is removed. The reason I will do this is because my BX never made this squealing sound until I removed the BH for the first time and for this reason I have been suspicious about this QC ever since. Once removed I will complete the loop with the QC not installed. In other words I will connect the hose directly using the appropriate JIC fittings and use the BX in a way that would normally cause the squealing. If the sound does not appear I will assume that QC is bad in some way.

Any more suggestions for testing/troubleshooting would be appreciated.

First of all, if the o ring is failing it could leak and you would know. I'd would justs replace the o ring. deano was able to locate some and replace it himself no problem. Its a few cents and replacing o ring anyway would give you a peace of mind.

Pulling the pwrbyd QC off and connect hose directly to loopback would be a tad difficult as the hose doesnt swivel. I'd still swap the QC from the FEL ports as a test or get new ones as test. Unless you have experience in hydraulics, looking for jic fittings to fit might be frustrating. Keep in mind, I am all for your theory and ideas, but dont want you to end up with a issue worse then what you have now.

An idea just popped in my head, if you happened to have noise come back, try wrapping the loop back with a rag to see if the noise is muffled some. If this is the case, then it would confirm your suspicions.

 

[Newfiestang50]

First of all, if the o ring is failing it could leak and you would know. I'd would justs replace the o ring. deano was able to locate some and replace it himself no problem. Its a few cents and replacing o ring anyway would give you a peace of mind.

Pulling the pwrbyd QC off and connect hose directly to loopback would be a tad difficult as the hose doesnt swivel. I'd still swap the QC from the FEL ports as a test or get new ones as test. Unless you have experience in hydraulics, looking for jic fittings to fit might be frustrating. Keep in mind, I am all for your theory and ideas, but dont want you to end up with a issue worse then what you have now.

An idea just popped in my head, if you happened to have noise come back, try wrapping the loop back with a rag to see if the noise is muffled some. If this is the case, then it would confirm your suspicions.

Fortunately I am familiar with all sorts of fittings, my trade (industrial instrumentation) and work environment (offshore oil & gas platform) have educated me in this area to a level that I feel comfortable, but I know what you mean. I may however have to use a union or coupler to get past the hose not turning during the tightening process. I may even bend some stainless tubing and compression fittings to replace the hose section altogether as a test, thats if I can find my old 1/2" swagelok benders. This shouldn't be to difficult, I think the hose is a short run from top of the pump (next to the relief valve) up to the hard pipe next to the right side 3pt hitch.

As for the rag idea, never thought of that, I will give it a try since its a simple test.

 

[Newfiestang50]

First of all, if the o ring is failing it could leak and you would know. I'd would justs replace the o ring. deano was able to locate some and replace it himself no problem. Its a few cents and replacing o ring anyway would give you a peace of mind.

Pulling the pwrbyd QC off and connect hose directly to loopback would be a tad difficult as the hose doesnt swivel. I'd still swap the QC from the FEL ports as a test or get new ones as test. Unless you have experience in hydraulics, looking for jic fittings to fit might be frustrating. Keep in mind, I am all for your theory and ideas, but dont want you to end up with a issue worse then what you have now.

An idea just popped in my head, if you happened to have noise come back, try wrapping the loop back with a rag to see if the noise is muffled some. If this is the case, then it would confirm your suspicions.

Forgot to respond to your theory about the o-ring causing a leak. The o-ring I was referring to was in the relief valve.

Not sure how I would see a leak if that o-ring has failed? I dont have the service manual but from the parts pbf document I cant see how the o-ring failure would cause a leak. Unless the fluid can get past the plug that holds the relief assembly in the pump, but I assume it is an NPT tread (or similiar) with some sort of pipe sealent considering its a wetted hydraulic plug.

 

[Newfiestang50]

Well thought I would provide an update on my problem and what I did to fix it.

As followers of this thread know I had a bad hydraulic squeal in my BX25 for some time now and basically it was beginning to drive me crazy. Yesterday I decided to try and determine what the cause was.

I did two things at once so I dont know which actually fixed the squeal.

First I removed a QC from the FEL an switched it with the one from the power beyond loop on the rear. With both QC's removed I cleaned them as best I could but for the record I did not sea any dirt what so ever in either. Both were just like brand new QC.

The second thing I did was removed the bypass valve for inspection. I found absoluty nothing abnormal in this unit as well.

So question is what was causing the squealing. It is my opinion that the sound was coming from the bypass valve and not the QC that I switched. When I had the valve out looking it over I noticed that there is a series of holes that allow the fluid to pass when the spring is compressed when the pressure is exceded. There is also a single hole in the wall surrounding the valve when it is in place to allow the fluid to escape once the valve is lifted from excessive pressure. I think that if the valve part with the series of holes is not lined up with the single hole in the wall than this can create a condition where the fluid has more of a restriction. This in turn I think creates this squealing sound when the fluid blows by at high velocity.

Anyway, what ever the case the sound is gone and I am very happy.

Also, to those of you who visited the dealer and was told that this sound is normal, its not, and it can be fixed. I'm not saying it is causing an harm but it sure does not sound good.

One more thing, thanks to those for their help and suggestions.