By the Ironworker for the Ironworker

[dcyrilc]

Glenn I may be getting ahead of myself here because I haven't seen the photo's but I thought I would post this so that everyone could see it. This is a extractor set made by Mac tools. It's a set I have had for some time now but it's an exceptional tool to own especially if you need to get broken bolts out. Each size has the drill size marked on it so there's no guess work. It's got me out of some bad situations at times.

Nice set. I hope you never have to use that largest extractor.:laughing:

 

[mjncad]

Ah- I see a future for you, posting daily or weekly tips on how to do stuff, like the idea of welding a washer then a nut over a broken bolt to extract it. You probably have hundreds of good techniques for doing stuff that leaves most of us scratching our heads and worrying. Maybe even a printed manual, for the shop bookshelf, since most of us don't have computers in the shop.

The welded on washer and nut idea is simple genius. I also don't envy the OP for having to drill out a metric grade 10.9 bolt to get an extractor into it.

Glenn I may be getting ahead of myself here because I haven't seen the photo's but I thought I would post this so that everyone could see it. This is a extractor set made by Mac tools. It's a set I have had for some time now but it's an exceptional tool to own especially if you need to get broken bolts out. Each size has the drill size marked on it so there's no guess work. It's got me out of some bad situations at times.

Now I know those extractors are antiques...they say 'Made in USA' on them.

 

[jayste]

Glenn I may be getting ahead of myself here because I haven't seen the photo's but I thought I would post this so that everyone could see it. This is a extractor set made by Mac tools. It's a set I have had for some time now but it's an exceptional tool to own especially if you need to get broken bolts out. Each size has the drill size marked on it so there's no guess work. It's got me out of some bad situations at times.

Ok Paul. I want to know why at least one of those extractors is not missing or chipped or busted?? Is it just me or am I missing something here?! Of course, I have been accused of "being like a bull in a china closet"! :laughing: I don't know what they're talking about. I just thought I'd try a little pull on that 2 foot piece of pipe I had on that breakover wrench that I had connected to the socket that was connected to the extractor....:shocked:..I hate it when that happens! :laughing:

 

[4shorts]

The welded on washer and nut idea is simple genius. I also don't envy the OP for having to drill out a metric grade 10.9 bolt to get an extractor into it.



Now I know those extractors are antiques...they say 'Made in USA' on them.

Matt there still available from Mac tools. As for the washer/nut trick. I've been doing it that way for 25 years. It's the standard way of me doing it. Sometimes after I get it all welded I'll just heat up the area where the bolt is and cool it down with water a few times to shock it and you'll almost remove the bolt with your fingers.

Ok Paul. I want to know why at least one of those extractors is not missing or chipped or busted?? Is it just me or am I missing something here?! Of course, I have been accused of "being like a bull in a china closet"! :laughing: I don't know what they're talking about. I just thought I'd try a little pull on that 2 foot piece of pipe I had on that breakover wrench that I had connected to the socket that was connected to the extractor....:shocked:..I hate it when that happens! :laughing:

Jay I keep all my tools in perfect shape. I need to too make a living. If one of those extractors were worn they get replaced and that goes for everything in the shop. I don't want to be out in the shop at 2 AM in the morning and reach for a tool and have it defective and not be able to complete the job. I even wax my welding equipment

Oh yes I do have to abuse the tools some times to get it done. I think we're all guilty of that and I know exactly what you mean

 

[dcyrilc]

Ok Paul. I want to know why at least one of those extractors is not missing or chipped or busted?? Is it just me or am I missing something here?! Of course, I have been accused of "being like a bull in a china closet"! :laughing: I don't know what they're talking about. I just thought I'd try a little pull on that 2 foot piece of pipe I had on that breakover wrench that I had connected to the socket that was connected to the extractor....:shocked:..I hate it when that happens! :laughing:

2 foot????

Never used anything less that a 10 foot stick of 2" conduit myself.

...Typically used with an 18" or 24" pipe wrench. You get a lot of leverage when you're 10 feet out.:thumbsup:

 

[jayste]

2 foot????

Never used anything less that a 10 foot stick of 2" conduit myself.

...Typically used with an 18" or 24" pipe wrench. You get a lot of leverage when you're 10 feet out.:thumbsup:

:laughing::laughing: Yes and you better have a GOOD and DEPENDABLE brand of wrench as well!:thumbsup:

 

[jayste]

The welded on washer and nut idea is simple genius.

I'll vouch for that! Many moons ago, as a youngster, I worked in an oilfield valve reman shop as a welder. Part of my job was to remove all bolts and packing glands from the valve body and bonnet. Many times to remove a broken off bolt I'd have to find a nut close to the size of the broken bolt (usually just big enough to slide over it some, forget finding the right size to screw on because usually the threads were too bad for that), slide it over the bolt a little ways, hold it with some channel locks or vice grips and weld it to the end of the bolt. Most usually, once it cooled a bit, you could put an end wrench or crescent on it and it would back out. Occasionally, I'd have to heat the area around the bolt and body to free it up.:thumbsup:

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

I've used it to pull head bolts out of cat engines and broken off studs in tractor axle housings. Its amazing how well the heat serves to loosen things up that were stuck tight that created the problem in the first place.

Another tip I learned that has saved me a LOT of aggravation, where I first used it on an 8N that I was restoring the gear box on....Weld the inside of a bearing race, and it will pop right out. The bottom bearing on an 8 N or other type ford steering boxes is in a blind hole. They press in, but getting the out is another story. Simplest thing to do is to weld a bead around the inside of the race and let it cool. The race will shrink and sometimes will even fall out.
I've used in on several taper bearing applications and it always works.

 

[dcyrilc]

:laughing::laughing: Yes and you better have a GOOD and DEPENDABLE brand of wrench as well!:thumbsup:

Always used 'Rigid' brand wrenches. The trick is to make sure that the entire handle is inside the pipe. Otherwise you bend or break the handle.

We did this for removing the nuts off the mounting bolts on old signal poles we were removing. Typically 2" or 2-1/2" bolts which had been there for 25+ years. They can become pretty stuborn.

 

[Stampeder]

OK, got pictures yesterday.
First the tractor complete with baler attached.
Since this is afterall a tractor site then the next is the baler. For those who don't get out much a close up of the knotter. It a pretty complicated piece of engineering and a pain in the butt to get working right.

Next a picture of the loader with the broken bolts. A closer look and you'll see the problem. The space between the engine block and the loader frame is one inch. This space is filled by the two half inch plates in the picture.

The picture with the bolts shows the broken grade 10.9 bolt on the left. It was originally 75 mm long. The replacement on the right is the only thing I could get which was originally 90 mm but I've cut it down to 75 mm.
If you look at the engine block photo you'll see the difficulty on this one. I'm afraid I'll have to remove the loader frame. That will definitely be no picnic. Arghhhhh.
Lastly, since we are showing off our tools. I thought I would take a picture of my easy out set that I've had for over 35 years. If you look closely you'll see that they are even made in Canada. I still use the broken one on the very odd occasion only because I haven't checked to see if Proto still has these available.

Paul, when I read your response about welding the washer and then the nut to the broken stud I was knocked of my chair. What a clever idea. This will now become my modus operenda going forward that's for sure.
The baler is my nemesis right now. I bought it last year for $500.00, we are ranching on a tight budget and have been rebuilding it ever since. I have learned a ton about square balers as a result. While it has done most of the bales, it has been a challenge as it hasn't been used for years and little things like the slip clutches keep changing their friction point as they work themselves in causing interesting failure problems. I have been replacing shear bolts like crazy until I get the clutches to the right settings.

Enjoy the pictures.

Glenn.