Can all tractors flip over easy?

[Sawyer Rob]

You won't flip this tractor over easily, backwards, forwards or sideways!

SR

 

[JWR]

Primarily because the CG is extremely low. And the ratio between the CG height from the ground to the width of the tracks at the ground is way lower than any farm tractor.

 

[Torvy]

^Exactly..weight is important, but can be overstated. Take an absurd example and assume 60% of the weight was above the seat. A top-heavy tractor is no less tippy because it is heavy...it is about multiple factors...low center of gravity and a wide base are even more important than weight, imho.

Another vote for the OP, anything can be tipped, rolled, or flipped if proper care is not taken. That being said, some are more easily unbalanced than others.

 

[beenthere]

I thought about buying an older tractor like an 8N, but then I started reading about them flipping over. I'm sure you can use common sense be pretty safe, but I got to thinking that maybe all tractors could flip? Was looking for advice on safety. I was thinking I probably need a sub compact now because they look safer, but I could be fooling myself.

It for plowing new ground with stumps and roots, mostly the leftover roots.

Edit: I have no experience with tractors, if you couldn't tell.

The 8N Ford is probably one of the least likely to flip backwards if you don't pull above the axle line.
If using 3ph attachments like a moldboard plow, then little to no worry.
Also the 8N Fords are quite stable on slopes so will not lay over easily. Stance of the wheels are important.
The 8N Fords won't flip you off.

The hysteria shown in the posts in this thread are frightening. Apparently posted by many folks who know little to nothing about tractors. Good luck sorting through this mess.
Find a buddy who has an 8N Ford and try to get some experience and direction with hands-on teaching.

 

[sandytrail]

I agree with everyone regarding the flipping of a tractor. I once was trying to move a mobile home with a Farmall C. I let out the clutch and was looking behind me to see the home move. When I turned around the front of the tractor was 4 feet in the air. I immediately stepped on the clutch and it dropped. I learned about trying to move an immovable load that day.
On another important issue, you shouldn't buy a Ford 8N for what you described. They don't have power steering, independent PTOs or roll over protection. You should be looking at something newer with at least 35HP. Just my 2 cents.

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

Don't confuse me with facts, I've already made up my mind...

I agree!! LOL!

 

[PorterMF65]

I thought about buying an older tractor like an 8N, but then I started reading about them flipping over. I'm sure you can use common sense be pretty safe, but I got to thinking that maybe all tractors could flip? Was looking for advice on safety. I was thinking I probably need a sub compact now because they look safer, but I could be fooling myself.

It for plowing new ground with stumps and roots, mostly the leftover roots.

Edit: I have no experience with tractors, if you couldn't tell.

I have 2 tractors. One is a MF65 which is not impossible to turn over but you would really have to be doing something you shouldn't be to roll it. I think it's a 1963. I have a Kubota which is a loader that I don't like to operate without the box blade on the back. I can't remember what number it is. It is very scary on uneven ground. It's not real small but it's not big enough or heavy enough for a lot of things. If I had a had a hydraulic bucket on the Massey, the Kubota would never get used. Hope this helps.

 

[TheMan419]

I live in a portion of Indiana that makes Kansas look hilly... I rolled my tractor moving manure. That was something I had done at least 1000 times before. I just had a moment of inattention and carelessness. Rear tires were NOT loaded and I did not have any rear ballast on the machine. You can bet the tractor came back from the shop with rears loaded. Makes things SO MUCH MORE STABLE.

I would personally NOT operate a tractor without a ROPS and of course I would never fold the ROPS down during operation. Wear your seatbelt.

 

[Beeenvenue]

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other single (1) specification. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third (for stability under load), rear wheel/tire ballast fourth (partly for stability under load).

I’m sorry but I disagree.

The total package must be considered. What are you using it for? What is your budget? What is your experience level? How many hours per year? Distance to dealer? How many different things are you going to use it for? Will you need to trailer it? How much time do you have to accomplish your tasks? What kind of soil do you have? Will you need to drive it from location to location? Etc

If I had unlimited budget I might agree but your posts always focus on weight. I had to trailer mine for years so the most I could get was a 35hp kioti. Regardless. Because I couldn’t afford a new truck to pull a larger machine and that was the heaviest and largest I could pull, with bushog and loader, on my existing pickup. Or are you suggesting I drop 75k on a new truck and an extra 5k on a larger trailer just to spend an extra 10k on my larger tractor so I can have extra weight? Perhaps I can live with a smaller machine and spend a little extra time with smaller implements to accomplish the same task. After all, we are typically talking CUT/SCUT users here not those who make their living in ag.

In a vacuum, perhaps you are correct but most of us live in the real world and our choices are sets and series of compromises. Constantly focusing on weight only without regard to other possible limitations doesn’t help.

 

[SmallChange]

There's nothing special about pulling a load from below the rear axle to prevent it flipping backwards, and this does not make the load push the front down harder.

The lower the load is pulled from, the better. If the load is pulled from exactly ground level it does not provide up ward or downward force on the front. Pulling from anywhere above ground level tends to lift the front, in proportion to the height of the pull. Pulling from below ground (such as with a ripper or subsoiler encountering an obstacle at its bottom) pushes the front down. Front downward force changes from positive to negative as you move the load downward through ground level.

Nothing changes particularly at axle height, there's only the general trend that lower is always better.