Can't shorten PTO shaft because of metal collar?

[hube2]

There's a hole under it that channels the grease inside the outer tube.

Thank you, that makes more sense. Actually would be nice if mine had that and I didn't need to slide them apart an grease the inner shaft. Would make it a bit easier and less messy.

 

[Midniteoyl]

I don't think so. It's a "knub" of some sort but not a screw. Even if it was, the epoxy would hold it tight. Weird part is I noticed when I slid the shafts back together there is a window open to the plastic piece on both if the shaft is fully compressed. Pic attached. Not sure why they'd leave a hole open like this for debris to get in but it almost seems like a service position to grease the shaft.

Definitely a greasing zerk. It's almost like they didn't want this to be shortened. I wonder of the metal collar is some sort of 'vibration dampener' then? You can't move that metal collar either, correct?

 

[RickB]

There are a million trilobe shafts out there without plastic zerks. The metal collar is there to keep the shield from destroying the plastic zerk. If you want to modify the shaft so it is a useable length, cut it to a useable length. If you want a museum piece, put it back together and hang it on the wall, go buy a generic shaft without all the fancy stuff and cut it to length.

If you really have to have the zerk, buy a metal 1/4"-28 straight zerk and drill & tap the outer tube to accept it.

 

[Midniteoyl]

There are a million trilobe shafts out there without plastic zerks. The metal collar is there to keep the shield from destroying the plastic zerk. If you want to modify the shaft so it is a useable length, cut it to a useable length. If you want a museum piece, put it back together and hang it on the wall, go buy a generic shaft without all the fancy stuff and cut it to length.

If you really have to have the zerk, buy a metal 1/4"-28 straight zerk and drill & tap the outer tube to accept it.

Sure, and what I would do instead of buying another shaft. Just kinda curious as to what the OEM was thinking, if they know about this at all seeing as it seems most OEMs buy whatever shafts they need in bulk from whomever they can at the time of need.

 

[RickB]

Sure, and what I would do instead of buying another shaft. Just kinda curious as to what the OEM was thinking, if they know about this at all seeing as it seems most OEMs buy whatever shafts they need in bulk from whomever they can at the time of need.

Pretty much the way it works. Implement driveshafts are 100% outsourced.

 

[the old grind]

I'm sure you know that in the first pic the shaft sections are ~90^ OOP. Be sure they're assembled properly when you're done. You'll want the vertical and horiz' bearing cups at each end to be aligned as closely as possible to maintain constant velocity and minimize vibration. btw, I bought an extra PTO shaft for some implements that need longer for use with Pat's EC. IMO you got this one.

 

[OzKioti]

I'm sure you know that in the first pic the shaft sections are ~90^ OOP. Be sure they're assembled properly when you're done. You'll want the vertical and horiz' bearing cups at each end to be aligned as closely as possible to maintain constant velocity and minimize vibration.

All the shafts I have are the three "cornered" type, one of which is flat, so they'll only slide together one way.

Ref the constant velocity: One implement I used to have (a manual feed chipper) had a high inlet shute. To make it more accessable for my wife who's not as tall as me, I lengthened the top link which meant the lip of the shute was a little lower BUT - it also meant the chipper was not sitting flush on the ground! The PTO shaft was angled down from the tractor's drive shaft at, say, 20 degrees, but went straight onto the chipper's shaft.

Someone with more smarts than me explained this was incorrect, due to velocity changes as the shaft rotated. It took me a while to get my head around that, but finally it "sank in", and now I make sure I get the implement in the same plane as the tractor.

 

[Gord Baker]

Hi everyone. I purchased an Agrimetal BW 1600 (PTO blower) for my BX2380 a few weeks ago. Everything looks great but I'm having trouble with cutting the shaft. I measured it up and found I need to take about 5.5" off. Of course, I need to take that off both metal shafts and both plastic shields. Trouble is, the PTO shaft that came with the attachment has a metal and plastic collar on one side of the shaft that seem immovable. The plastic piece in particular has some grey stuff that seems to be some kind of bonding agent. Pictures below. They're only about 3" from the end so I'd be unable to remove enough material. No video or forum I look at mentions this on any PTO shafts - every time I see one they're just the bare metal shaft. Any suggestions? Did I get sent the wrong shaft maybe or am I just missing something? Seems like maybe this shaft isn't meant to be cut that much? Thanks in advance for any help.

Go to a 4x4 Driveline shop with your exact measurements. I am sure they could do it. Universals in Phase.

 

[PILOON]

Re lubricating PTO shafts.
I like to use synthetic (non clay based grease) as the black clay based eventually dries up and goes very hard over time.
I was once given a battery powered grease pump that was so dried up hard that I needed a hammer and chisel to make it useable.
Prior owner must have stored it over his furnace.

Also we once tried to pull apart a PTO shaft that had spent considerable time baking under the sun and believe U me that was some chore.
Chains, tractor and tied to a tree was not enough power.
Heat, plenty of solvent and hammer tapping* finally did the trick. (and nasty words)

*we think the vibrations from tapping helped a lot.

 

[lpakiz]

Hope the sketch of the chipper shaft (above) shows up, but that diagram is EXACTLY the same arrangement any twin screw (18-wheeler, semi) has.
The output of the front differential (tractor PTO) can be any reasonable angle, but the receiving joint of the rear diff (chipper) should point at the output joint of the front differential. Some minor variation is allowed.

Edit: the sketch didn’t make it. It’s a couple posts up…^^^

The velocity changes are indeed critical. That why you must make sure the joint crosses are “in phase” so that the acceleration of one cross cancels the deceleration of its mate on the other end of the shaft.