Chain Guards -- What Size Chain?

[TerryR]

I recently posted in another thread questions on a chain guard for my flail mower, and got some good ideas suggesting it wouldn't be that hard to make one. I've read multiple threads on making chain guards (almost all for rotary cutters) and am left with one question: What size chain to use?

Many threads talk about using chain the poster had around, but I don't have any so need to buy some, which doesn't seem that expensive. But what size? I'm thinking 1/4" or 3/16".

What do equipment manufacturers use? Nothing I've found says.

What has anyone who has built open used, and what do you think about the size?

I'm thinking that if anything a flail could use something a bit smaller than a rotary cutter since it's supposed to be less inclined to throw things.

 

[CADplans]

I have had a flail mower over a decade, nothing has been thrown further than the clippings go,,
Do you want the guard to make the grass lay down??

Since the force on anything coming out of a flail is so low,, 1/4" chain would be plenty.

 

[TerryR]

In the fall the rubber guard that comes with it pushes down what I'm mowing (I mow only twice a year) and the stiff stuff doesn't pop up enough to be cut, creating an awful result. I've taken the guard off, which mostly fixed that issue. But it's a ditch and bank mower, and I use it full offset to avoid cutting what I've driven over, so a little stuff gets thrown enough that I get hit by it occasionally.

I'm hoping a chain guard will not push the weeks down so far they won't get cut, but reduce the amount of flying debris.

 

[ptsg]

Mine is a rotary cutter but also uses chain skirts, both front and back. It uses 5/16" chain.

 

[TerryR]

Thanks, ptsg. That looks like a heavy duty rig.

 

[John0829]

I've used 1/4" chain on every one I have ever made, I had/have a LOT of old 1/4" chain layin around for some reason and it has worked well.

 

[TerryR]

Thanks, John.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

My 72" finish mower has 1/4" chain. Don't think it needs to be heavier than that.

 

[TerryR]

Thanks, LS.

 

[cathy liebchen]

Our Brown has 5/16” chain

 

[toolslinger]

The unit I made is 1/4", and yea, it was what was hanging around (literally).
For your application, and since you're buying, I might lean toward 3/16". A) it's a little lighter, which matters since you're working on an offset unit. B) It should be a little cheaper. C)with the slightly smaller links it should be a little more dense in terms of stopping small objects, but lighter, so it will move around the stiff weeds more easily.
That's my thoughts for what they're worth, considering I still haven't actually gotten to try my rotary out with the new guards... I had considered doing some for the flail I just put back together, but after a dozen acres last weekend, and not getting anything thrown forward, I'm going to leave it open in front at this time...

 

[Tinhack]

On my flail mower, I used bailer belting. It's pinched between the mower housing and a strip of 3/16x1 flat iron. The blades spin forward and I've never had an issue with uncut weeds/grass. The cut is as good as any finish cut mower. It uses the cup/spoon blades. Before I put the front guard on the flail, I would hear thick chaff and an occasional stone hit my expanded metal guard on the tractor. The belting seems to also create more lift on the grass. In the back, there's a 6" full length roller. Not much gets past that.

My old Ford rotary mower has 1/4" chain held in place by a single rod. A chain link is inserted into a slot in an L-channel from the bottom. The rod runs through the exposed portion of the links on top of the channel. The rod is bolted down on one end. Tedious if you have to replace one but easily beats having to grind and weld on a new piece of chain.

 

[TerryR]

The unit I made is 1/4", and yea, it was what was hanging around (literally).
For your application, and since you're buying, I might lean toward 3/16". A) it's a little lighter, which matters since you're working on an offset unit. B) It should be a little cheaper. C)with the slightly smaller links it should be a little more dense in terms of stopping small objects, but lighter, so it will move around the stiff weeds more easily.

Those are exactly the reasons I've been leaning toward a lighter chain, especially A and C. Thanks.

 

[TerryR]

On my flail mower, I used bailer belting. It's pinched between the mower housing and a strip of 3/16x1 flat iron. The blades spin forward and I've never had an issue with uncut weeds/grass. The cut is as good as any finish cut mower. It uses the cup/spoon blades.

That's about what came on it from the factory on mine. It has hammer blades. Here's the result when mowing in the fall with the guard on:

Here's what I'm trying to cut:

I've looked at the designs that put the top chain link through a notch and hold them with a rod, but making 60 or so notched holes looks challenging. So I'm leaning toward toolslinger's design that puts the chain sections on a rod held by mounting brackets. I'm not considering the designs that have the chains welded on a mounting bar.

 

[TerryR]

Our Brown has 5/16” chain

Thanks, Cathy. I assume that's a rotary cutter? I'm thinking I can do well with lighter chains on a flail.

 

[Tinhack]

Well, if you were closer, we could punch the slots or mill the slots.

 

[TerryR]

Thanks, Tinhack, but with the price of gas, I'm guessing hiring a local shop to do it would be cheaper. I'm going to talk to one in the next few days.

 

[Smokeydog]

The front chain guard assembly for a Bushhog 286 6’ rotary cutter was $280. Be hard for a shop to make a custom one similar for that amount.

 

[TerryR]

Thanks, Smokeydog. I'd found the guard for the BH216 at about $100 more. I'd not come across the 286. I'll see if I can get that and what it would cost. I see it listed in Illinois for just under $280.

Would you know how long the bar is on it?

 

[TerryR]

Just checked with my local BH dealer, and he wants $426. :-(

I'll see if I can do better.