Chain Saw Advice

[CurlyDave]

As part of my land-clearing activities I need to remove quite a few trees.

Lets estimate ~100 over the next 3 or 4 years.

Until I got gas heat 20 years ago, I burned wood exclusively for ~ 15 years in the winters. I have a 12" Stihl chainsaw which is now about 30 years old and has not been used since I got gas heat. I primarily used it to cut up cord wood which I had delivered, but I did manage to wear out 3 chains. I just tried to start it up & it does not start any more.

We are now moving to the country and I am both going to clear trees and buck firewood, so I need to replace the old saw.

I am a 60 year old geezer desk jockey with no real knowledge and limited experience of chain saws.

I am thinking that I should start with about a 16" bar and leave any tree I can't cut down with that for someone who knows what he is doing.

Any recommendations on brands, motor sizes, and chain types, etc ? Easy to start is a must.

Safety equipment ? I am thinking of getting chaps, helmet & face shield with any saw. I have a pretty good set of boots, and always wear gloves. Anything else I need?

I am thinking that it will be a lot safer to notch and backcut most trees only to the point where I can pull them over with the tractor & a 45 foot 3/8" chain. What do you folks think?

I have already pulled over a few trees with the tractor & this seems like the way to go if it is possible. However, I already have a few which I can not pull over, and these need to be cut down.

 

[Egon]

Chaps/pants, ear protection, eye protection, hard hat and chainsaw specific boots. There are boots made for this purpose. Oh, and gloves. Water bottle, sweat band and relaxing chair for post sawing recovery. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

There different types of chain. The faster they cut the more they are prone to kickback. An extra bar and chain are handy if you get the saw stuck.

Note: you can use different sise bars and different chains as long as all is compatible. [ pitch,gauge]

Learn how to sharpen your own chain.

Get some wedges and fall the tree properly. Note wind direction.

Quite a few different chain saws out there. A proffesional model [ more expensive ] may be advisable.

You will receive lots of advice as to "the best one." Take your pick.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[scott_vt]

Get some wedges and fall the tree properly. Note wind direction.

Mornin Egon,
If any kind of wind is blowing, I just come back another day /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

scotty

 

[jeffinsgf]

Well this gets about as semantic as Ford or Chevy, but anyway here is my side of that debate. I have a 11 year old Husqvarna model 55 chainsaw and a 12 year old Husqvarna string trimmer. Personally, I am awful about small engine maintenance. I always think I will use it "one more time" in the fall, then forget about it and in the spring, the gas has been sitting in it all winter. It doesn't happen every year, but it happens more often than the proper winterizing routine. I also have a 3 year old Stihl string trimmer (smaller and lighter than the Husky) and a 1 year old Stihl hedge trimmer. I can assure you of one thing. When I grab one of my Husky's it is about 3 or 4 pulls from starting --- every time regardless of maintenance. When I grab a Stihl, I am in for a frustrating 10 minutes of cranking, fiddling with the choke, feathering the throttle, cussing and promising myself that I will no longer listen to the sales guys at my local farm store talk about the superiority of Stihl.

 

[ddbuck]

do a search for "chainsaw advice needed" in the Rural Discussion section, excellent advice especially from CT Tree Guy

 

[SnowRidge]

I recently bought an Echo 520 with a 20" bar for general use, which I like very much. I was going to get a Husky Rancher, but after comparing the two, I decided on the Echo. My old saw is a 16" Poulan, and there is no comparison. I am very happy I went with the 20" bar, BTW.

 

[Wesdor]

Lots of good advice from others so far. Several have said to learn to sharpen your chain. I'll add my voice to that one. You can either purchase a dremel tool with a stone and sharpening guide (for about $50) or get a dedicated chain sharpener for more like $250.

Keep the chain out of the dirt and sharpen it often. I find nothing worse than working with a dull chain.

Regarding brand, I wouldn't dream of going there. Just get a well built model. There are lots of them.

Sounds like safety is your number 1 concern - that's as it should be.

 

[PineRidge]

We wore a Makita chain saw out in about 1-1/2 years so I wouldn't go there.

Would recommend a Stihl saw which is what we replaced the Makita with. It's been a good all around chain saw that's quite easy to start. I've tried but can't seem to wear this one out, at least not yet.

 

[4sarge]

Old geezer and just 60 /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I still use a chainsaw but only for campfire wood or a down tree. You might consider a corn stove if you live in the corn belt. I'm using a corn stove to heat my farm and I've knocked my propane bill down by about 3/4 or more. Keeps the cabin nice and warm and do not have to depend upon the gas furnace for heat - only as auxiliary and cooking. Corn is costing me 1 to 2 dollars a day depending upon the outside temps. Wife loves it and she was a non believer before we installed it. Corn is 0 work compared to wood. I buy the corn from a neighbor or at the co-op, empty the ash pan about every 2 days and clean the stove periodically. Bought a shop vac to aid in the cleaning and can complete the job in about 15 minutes.

If you buy, buy a good corn stove -

 

[DmansPadge]

I bought an Echo 440 with an 18" bar after the hurricane. It has been really impressive so far. The real test is how it will be 5 years from now. So far so good. The prices of the Echos are a bit cheaper than the Stihls and Husqvarnas.

 

[tawilson]

If you browse around to the Oregon, Madsen's, Stihl and Husky sites you can find a lot of info for the downloading on chainsaw use and chain and chainsaw maintenance.

 

[flusher]

You didn't mention what size trees you're planning to cut. I wouldn't advise tackling the big ones until you get a little time on your saw.

If I were you, I'd get a suitably-sized chain saw (you've got lots of good advice from others in this thread on that score) and practice using it on some firewood or on a few of your smallest trees (less than 4" diameter). That way you'll learn your saw's peculiarities and won't be so surprised when something unexpected happens when felling the big ones.

You might also want to check the Safety forum for info on chain saw accidents. Seeing the pictures makes you a believer in chain saw safety precautions.

 

[3RRL]

Ho Dave,
I recently wnt through this and got a lot of help from our resident TBN expert CT Tree Guy You might PM him for mor information. He IS a wealth of knowledge.

Also some threads to read.
CHAINSAW ADVICE NEEDED
Inside that one there are other links to read.

 

[kensfarm]

How about selling the timber to a timber company.. they'll come in and do all the work.. you get to relax.. and count your money. Then you can buy a nice chainsaw.. and still have all the leftovers to cut up for firewood.

 

[EddieWalker]

I hate stumps and I'm afraid of chain saws. I like to dig out the tree with my backhoe and take it all out at once. Since this isn't an option for you, I'd learn how to fell them without relying on the chain on the tractor method. This just has disaster all over it.

My reasoning is from seeing trees twist while dropping and fall in the wrong place. Not to mention when they go the oposite way. The chain being tied to the tractor seems like an oportunity for the tractor and/or operator to get hurt if a tree does what trees sometimes do.

As to your Stihl chainsaw. Have you taken it in to a shop to see if it's repairable??? Stihl is a top of the line brand and since it's only been sitting for awhile, it probably just needs a good tune up.

I've always wanted a small chainsaw for cutting limbs off trees and smaller jobs. Since you already have a small one, maybe another saw for the big stuff??

I don't do allot of chainsaw work but when I need one, it's really nice to know it will be there. I had a Husqavarna that I hated. After a few years it died on me and wouldn't start at all. The repair shop said the motor didn't have any compresion and it would cost more to rebuild than replace. I threw it away and bought a Poulon Pro from Lowes. It's considered a lesser brand than Stihl, Husqavarna or Echo, but it's also half price and it works great!!!

Good luck and be safe!!
Eddie

 

[flusher]

Follow-up to my previous post---

I'm an old geezer like you and don't have much experience with chain saws. Read enough about chain saw safety to make me a believer in wearing protective armor and a face mask.

Last summer I had a chore to remove a dozen 3-4ft tall stumps from what remains of my almond orchard. Went through the same tradeoffs you're making now and here's what I decided is best for me.

Bought a Remington electric chain saw (about $70) with a 16" bar (117 VAC, 11.5 amps). Reason: don't like little gas engines 3 feet from my face (noise, vibration, smells bad). And this saw is really light weight, a plus for a senior citizen like myself.

Used that saw to cut the stumps, some of them over a foot in diameter. No problem. Just take your time and let the saw do the work.

Fortunately the stumps were close enough to the well house where I had provided a 117V weatherproof duplex receptacle for this type of situation. I could reach the stumps with about 100 feet of extension cord.

If necessary I could have used my Coleman Powermate electric generator (117 VAC, 25 amps, $350 at Home Depot) to run the saw. That way I could keep the gas engine noise away from myself and work in relative comfort.

Just some ideas and alternatives.

 

[CurlyDave]

I like to dig out the tree with my backhoe and take it all out at once.

Eddie:

Actually this is an option. The problem I have is the safety issue of digging out the entire 40' tall tree with the backhoe. Yes, I have a ROPS/FOPS, but how do you absolutely prevent the tree from falling on the machine ?

I have snapped a few small ones off near the base with a chain, and digging out the stumps, a major root always surprises me with what direction it is going.

I just don't see how to dig out the entire tree without getting into a real crapshoot as to where & when it will fall.

Dave

P.S. Love your projects.

 

[RobA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How about selling the timber to a timber company.. they'll come in and do all the work.. you get to relax.. and count your money. Then you can buy a nice chainsaw.. and still have all the leftovers to cut up for firewood. )</font>
I sold 200+ trees to a timber company. What a mess they left! They only wanted the trunk of the tree - branches, stumps, etc were left behind. Thank goodness for my Stihl chainsaw!

 

[beenthere]

Has nothing to do with Husky vs Stihl (the hard start that is) but has a lot to do with one needing a tune-up. MY Stihl's start right away, and the brush cutter, two chain saws, and pole saw have been flawless, one for 31 years now. But I keep them with good gas and tuned (not saying you don't, but any 2cycle engines can be troublesome regardless of brand). No need to turn this into a brand war, is there? I won't say anything about my experience with the Husky brand. Fair enough? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[beenthere]

A lot of chainsaw sites have good information about procedures to bring down trees as safely as possible. Heads-up at all times is however important, as no two trees are alike, nor behave alike. Some practice with someone who is knowledgable (or at least two heads better than one) is a good idea, IMO. Sounds like you are on a good track.