Chain Saw Question

[proudestmonkey]

Ordered chaps last week on the advice of someone from here. Made with Kevlar. Should arrive this week.

The new chain "fits" the new bar in terms of size, but won't slide easily into the groove on the bar because the little teeth on the inside of the chain get bent.

 

[proudestmonkey]

Ordered chaps last week on the advice of someone from here. Made with Kevlar. Should arrive this week.

The new chain "fits" the new bar in terms of size, but won't slide easily into the groove on the bar because the little teeth on the inside of the chain get bent.

 

[proudestmonkey]

This is what I am starting to think. Maybe I'll bring in the saw, the bars, and the chains and let him take a look at them. He's a really good guy, so hopefully he will know what I need to do.

 

[proudestmonkey]

This is what I am starting to think. Maybe I'll bring in the saw, the bars, and the chains and let him take a look at them. He's a really good guy, so hopefully he will know what I need to do.

 

[proudestmonkey]

The tensioner is not automatic. Its manual. But, its designed to be faster. On most chain saws that I've seen (including my old one), there are two nuts that secure a face plate to the saw, which also holds the chain in place. To tension the chain, you loosen the nuts, and then tighten a screw to tighten the chain. Then you re-tighten the nuts. On this model (180 MS) there is only one "nut", not two, and instead of it being a galvanized metal nut, its a larger (two inch) circular peice of plastic, part of which flips out and then can be used to turn it. I am wondering if this is the problem, not enough torque with one nut, instead of two, and plastic to boot, to prevent the chain from moving side to side across the groove of the chain.

 

[proudestmonkey]

The tensioner is not automatic. Its manual. But, its designed to be faster. On most chain saws that I've seen (including my old one), there are two nuts that secure a face plate to the saw, which also holds the chain in place. To tension the chain, you loosen the nuts, and then tighten a screw to tighten the chain. Then you re-tighten the nuts. On this model (180 MS) there is only one "nut", not two, and instead of it being a galvanized metal nut, its a larger (two inch) circular peice of plastic, part of which flips out and then can be used to turn it. I am wondering if this is the problem, not enough torque with one nut, instead of two, and plastic to boot, to prevent the chain from moving side to side across the groove of the chain.

 

[proudestmonkey]

180 MS C

 

[proudestmonkey]

180 MS C

 

[proudestmonkey]

For what its worth, each time I get done using the chain saw, I let it cool down for a bit, take the face plate off, take the bar off, clean everything out, flip the bar around (tells you to in the manual), put the chain back on, and then make sure tension is correct and everything is secure. I did that with my old chain saw too. I think of it as both good maintenance and a safety thing. The more I know about how well the saw is operating, the more safe I will be using it.

 

[proudestmonkey]

For what its worth, each time I get done using the chain saw, I let it cool down for a bit, take the face plate off, take the bar off, clean everything out, flip the bar around (tells you to in the manual), put the chain back on, and then make sure tension is correct and everything is secure. I did that with my old chain saw too. I think of it as both good maintenance and a safety thing. The more I know about how well the saw is operating, the more safe I will be using it.