Chaining it down ?

[pdqford]

Newbie here, with new to me 2520.

Thinking that I might need to trailer my 2520 w/FEL next week, how do you guys secure the 2520/2720 to the trailer?

Chains or ratchet straps?

And where on the 2520 do you hook the chains/straps?

Thanks for any advice..........................

 

[Don87]

I prefer a 4 point tie down with chains, and ratchet strap for the FEL.

2 chains to the rear axle, 2 chains to the front axle.

With this procedure, even if the trailer flips, the tractor should still be secured to the trailer. :thumbsup:

 

[MarkV]

I prefer a 4 point tie down with chains, and ratchet strap for the FEL.

2 chains to the rear axle, 2 chains to the front axle.

With this procedure, even if the trailer flips, the tractor should still be secured to the trailer. :thumbsup:

Plus this the legal way to do it.

MarkV

 

[Don87]

Plus this the legal way to do it.

MarkV

Sure is. I hauled steel for 7 years. I pull dry van and reefer now.

 

[lstinthot]

When I reviewed the laws for how to tie down a tractor is did not specify chains or ratchet straps. It did specify what ever you are using has to have a working limit half that of the object being tied down.

If the tractor is under 10,000 lbs, then it can be tied down with one chain/strap up front and one in the back. So having two up front and two in the back is legal.

That being said I use four points of contact from tractor to trailer with chains. I have two 15 or 20 foot chains, one chain for the front and one for the back. The chain hook hooks to the frame and the binder hooks to the trailer, the slack is on the trailer and use the same chain on the other side. It essentially makes two chains out of one chain. A bit over kill but I don't want the tractor coming off in the event of an accident. I did haul it around for a long time with straps, but they started to wear so I upgraded to the chains.

Happy trailering.

 

[pdqford]

Thanks for the advice, guys.
(I'm off to get more chain :thumbsup

 

[greg_g]

My 3720 has a pair of attachment points, one on either side of the drawbar. I use both to double chain the rear of the tractor to the rear of the trailer, driving the tractor forward til they're taut. Up front I use a single chain wrapped around the axle housing, which I tighten to the front of the trailer with a lever type chain binder.

//greg//

 

[megaboz]

I use the two holes on the brush guard in the front. And in the back the main supports in the back on each side there is just enough room to slip in a set of hooks on each side between the tire and tractor.

Oh, and I prefer straps, but cheap straps can have issues with stretching. I use a 10,000# break rated strap that has a 3000#+ working limit.

Also I recommend at least 4 tie down points in case of a failure with a tie down no matter what your state may say is legal/required. Chances are you don't have insurance that will cover replacement of the tractor in the event that it would fall of the trailer. Even if financed through JD I was told it would only cover the loan balance and your vehicle insurance is typically only liability.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

I always have my loader on and I have chain hooks on the bucket. I use a single chain and run from floor ring #1 to bucket and again from ring #2 to opposite side of bucket. I suppose in the big picture I should probablt cross them but this works. I also use a couple of pieces of wood under the bucket to protect the floor. I back the tractor up until tight and set the brake.

At the rear I have a clevis in the rear hitch and loop through in a V pattern. I use a binder to secure.

 

[pdqford]

Thanks again, megaboz and KennedyDiesel, for the details of the attachment points. Pictures ARE worth a thousand words :licking:

 

[megaboz]

I did notice on the rail in the rear there are two holes, might be able to utilize them to some degree to tie down. Maybe some kind of buckle or something, the only thing I don't like about hooking like that in the rear (like I did) is that I noticed because of my tractor position this time, they slid up some when I tighten the straps, still secure, just not the way I like.

Generally I back my tractor on, but having the brush hog on, my rear wheel hangs off a bit and I would rather have it hanging off then the bucket, plus for me is a weight/balance issue on the trailer. When it is loaded right, you don't notice it back there.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

My chain hooks are where megaboz has his straps crossing the bucket. I also have a pr out at the corners. I shoul dnot though that I have a skid steer bucket on mine which is WAY heavier built and will not bend like the tractor buckets will.

No strap rub worries this way either.

 

[yandeereguy]

Sure is. I hauled steel for 7 years. I pull dry van and reefer now.

WHOA!! what kinda farmin you doing

 

[Red Horse]

I always have my loader on and I have chain hooks on the bucket. I use a single chain and run from floor ring #1 to bucket and again from ring #2 to opposite side of bucket. I suppose in the big picture I should probablt cross them but this works. I also use a couple of pieces of wood under the bucket to protect the floor. I back the tractor up until tight and set the brake.

At the rear I have a clevis in the rear hitch and loop through in a V pattern. I use a binder to secure.

KD and Greg G- I notice you both have 3000 series. On my 300CX and 400X I carry an old rake handle on my trailer and I push the chain through the round cross pipe on the loader arms. On the rear I have a HD Clevis on the drawbar and pass the chain through that. One ratchett biner up front, and one in the rear.

 

[megaboz]

KD and Greg G- I notice you both have 3000 series. On my 300CX and 400X I carry an old rake handle on my trailer and I push the chain through the round cross pipe on the loader arms. On the rear I have a HD Clevis on the drawbar and pass the chain through that. One ratchett biner up front, and one in the rear.

Depending on the state I don't think that would be considered 4 corners. Any failure would leave the entire end free.

Personally I don't like chains, but that is my opinion. While straps will wear, chains usually don't show wear until too late. They tend to hurt more when they snap compared to a strap.

 

[greg_g]

One ratchett biner up front, and one in the rear.

Well thanks, but that's technically two-point tie down. I'm already using 3-point; one front, two rear.

//greg//

 

[Red Horse]

Depending on the state I don't think that would be considered 4 corners. Any failure would leave the entire end free.

Personally I don't like chains, but that is my opinion. While straps will wear, chains usually don't show wear until too late. They tend to hurt more when they snap compared to a strap.

Megaboz/greg-you are both correct- my hauls are like 3 miles to either of my son's houses or local fairgrounds-low speed, local roads. Also grade 70 3/8ths and made in USA chain, hooks, and binders.