Chains and binders

   / Chains and binders #41  
Harbor freight seems to have pretty wild prices.

First I called and they said they didn't have any grade 70 chain. Then I looked it up on the internet and they have some 5/16" - 20' that shows to be $36.99 online. Then I called the local store up and they quoted me $23.99 for it once I gave them the item number and then said they had 21 in stock.

The 3/8" grade 70 is rated for 6,600lbs and that for sure will be more than anything I will ever be hauling so I think I will go ahead and get that. With an implement on my tractor it could weigh in just over the 4,700lbs that the 5/16" chain is rated for.

Thanks, Nathan
 
   / Chains and binders #42  
The Working Load Limit of each chain doesn't need to equal the weight of the item you're chaining down.

I think you will be well served with the G70 3/8" chain and binders rated higher than the chain. Feel confident that it is done heck for stout.
 
   / Chains and binders #43  
npaden; You're doing the right thing. I don't think too highly of cheapening out when it comes to safety. With the proper setup like you're doing, I wouldn't be afraid of following you at 70mph, as for strappers and cheap chainers, I get away from them as fast as I can! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Chains and binders #44  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The Working Load Limit of each chain doesn't need to equal the weight of the item you're chaining down. )</font>

Correct if you are using a trailer that has no flex to it and you never have any accident. To be safe in that case, or in an accident, you should use WLL at 1.6 X the weight. You really don't think that a rolling object cannot exert more force than it's weight? Sorry man, you obviously fall into the "it ought to be fine and I saved $5" category. I don't. I can tell by your earlier statement about "killing a family or grandma, bla bla bla" that the safety of others is of no concern to you. Again, I differ. It is to me.

I see no need to comment further. I have no need to justify using the proper equipment or questioning physics, mathmatics, or why chain is rated. It matters not, but the fella I was replying to did find that it was indeed less than $50 (as I mentioned) to be undoubtedly safe in anybody's mind rather than possibly really sorry later. To some, that honestly is a reasonable amount to pay to make sure you are safe. Heck, it costs me plenty more than that to just fill my tank once! G'day. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Chains and binders #45  
( The Working Load Limit of each chain doesn't need to equal the weight of the item you're chaining down. )

I was referring to actual DOT requirements. I don't try and anticipate the worst case scenario, like what if I hit a brick wall while doing 100 mph upside down in a curve. The DOT publishes requirements that are proper minimums, anyone can do more for grins and giggles and to save grandma. The point is that you don't have to do more than the DOT requires unless you want to.
 
   / Chains and binders #47  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Boy, I'm glad you live in Washington. )</font>
Me too.

It sounds like some people like to play on the edge.

Do you run the bare minimum on auto insurance as well?

Go ahead... Save a couple $ and risk everything.

How foolish... I just don't get it.
 
   / Chains and binders #48  
The regs for tie-downs do not take accidents into consideraiton at all. The calculations are based on accelerations not exceeding 0.6 G's or something like that (I don't remember the exact number) with the justificaiton that it is very unlikely any haul vehicle would be able to accomplish acceleration or deceleration higher than that under normal operation. Hit a concrete bridge abutment at 60 MPH and I don't think the trailer nor the tractor are going to stay in one piece, and its not going to matter how strong the chains are.

4x 3/8" grade 70 is probably overkill for most compact tractors. I am certainly a fan of overkill, so I am not going to discourage anybody from that.

However, its always nice to actually know the minimum required to do the job so that you know if its 2x overkill or 10x overkill and can make an informed decision.

Another interesting practice that apparently does not anticipate accidents: I see equipment chained down all the time with the chains crossed over to the opposite side of the machine. Works great as long as there is not a roll-over. In a roll-over, there is nothing to keep the thing from just flipping right over and off the truck / trailer!

The stories that grade 70 is "required" probably comes from the requirements that the grade be marked or identifiable in some way. Grade 70 has the nice yellow chromate plating - easy to identify. Anything else is going to look like any old rusty old chain. Without the grade stamped into the links or some kind of tag, it will have to be assumed to be grade 30. Lots of stuff would be under-secured with grade 30 of the same size as 43, so some people get written up.

I don't recommend straps or ropes.

An enclosed trailer or a trailer with sides with a reasonable tight fit (using blocking or just being "full") is also considered sufficient under the regs, so thats why you see the landscapers using the trailers with the rail sides - they don't have to bother tying all those machines down becuase the sides prevent them from moving around or falling off.

- Rick
 
   / Chains and binders #49  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
An enclosed trailer or a trailer with sides with a reasonable tight fit (using blocking or just being "full") is also considered sufficient under the regs, so thats why you see the landscapers using the trailers with the rail sides - they don't have to bother tying all those machines down becuase the sides prevent them from moving around or falling off.

- Rick )</font>


Im going to disagree with that statement about trailers with sides and not having to tie them down.

About 4 years ago I go pulled over with my pickup and a 4 wheeler in the back by a Minnesota State Trooper. My 4 wheeler was not tied down. I was told if my pickup rolls over the 4 wheeler has to stay with the truck to be legal. In other words you best tie it down and just more than one across the seat. I would assumer that goes along with trailers also. I don't think having sides on a trailer (without a top or cover to hold things in) would make one legal.

murph
 
   / Chains and binders #50  
<font color="blue">textI was told if my pickup rolls over the 4 wheeler has to stay with the truck to be legal.</font>

The concept of a legal rollover is interesting ????
 
 

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