MikeD74T
Veteran Member
Go to Cargo Securement. It debunks the myths about grade 70 requirements.
Chains and binders
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MikeD74T
Veteran Member
Sorry John Bud, I directed you to Fed rules. Here's
WI securement
WI securement
Dargo
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Go to Cargo Securement. It debunks the myths about grade 70 requirements. )</font>
I don't know that myth about grade 70 is debunked. All written manuals and publications refer to grade 70 as "transport" chain or transport grade. Grade 43 is "high test" and a high strength general purpose chain, but nowhere is it listed as a transport chain. What 'myth' are you talking about?
If you take the stated static g force requirements for a blocked and non-rolling load you are required to use a chain with a minimum WLL of .8 of the cargo weight for front and rear securing and .5 for lateral securing. Physics class 101 will teach you that objects fall or accelerate at 32ft. per second sq. That is even mentioned in the links you provide. Given that fact, and combining that fact with the known fact that a light duty 7500 pound or even 10,000 pound trailer will certainly flex with even a modest 4000 pound load on them as they traverse over dips in the road and with other imperfections on the road you will get another equation.
You then have to add to the static WLL requirements by the new forces exerted by your load in motion, or as it is in effect in motion by the flexion of your trailer. If you take the simple equation of 32 ft. per second squared and apply a 6" acceleration of your secured mass (very easily achieved by either loose securement or the flexion of the trailer, you will come up with a shock load of at least double the static WLL securement previous listed as .8 of the weight of the cargo to be secured. So, if you take a tractor weighing 5000 pounds with all ballasts, implements and other equipment, you can easily arrive at a required WLL factor of 1.6 of that 5000 pounds, or 8000 pounds. If there is any accident involved, that can easily multiply the required WLL factor many times over. I am only talking about normal transporting.
In my case last year, I had two securing devices that each had a rating of 3300 pounds on both the front and rear of my tractor. I was transporting a tractor that had roughly a gross weight of 7000 pounds as equipped. If you take the static WLL formula of .8, it would appear as if I was plenty safe with a calculated WLL of 5600 pounds since I had 6600 pounds total WLL in the two securing devices on either end.
However, take into that equation the fact that the calculated WLL of .8 can easily be doubled with a simple 10k trailer flexing under a load while in transit, and double that .8 to 1.6, you now come up with a minimum requried WLL of 11,200 pounds. Doing the math on the setup I had now shows that a combined WLL of 6600 pounds on each end is considerably under what would be required to be safe. Two 3/8" grade 70 transport chains on each end gives me a combined WLL of 13,200. That exceeds the new calculated WLL by what would be a reasonable margin. Even if I had used grade 43 high test, not transport chain, I may have not been okay since 3/8" of that general purpose chain would have given me a combined WLL of 10,800; in theory not enough to handle the calculated WLL requirement of 11,200 pounds.
I would say that grade 43 chains would be far superior to any ratcheting binders using nylon straps by a far margin. However, it is not designed for transport as is grade 70. But, I do often see people grossly overloading their trailers and pickups on a frequent basis. For the most part they get by with doing so (as have I in the past), but the laws of physics will eventually catch up with them. Also, keep in mind, the DOT securements posted are the minimum acceptable standards. I don't know about you, but I generally do not go by minimum acceptable standards. To me, that is akin to people thinking that they should safely be able to exceed their hauling and towing ratings from the factory. I assume that these people are the same as the ones I still hear proclaim the greater safety of not using seat belts because of some story of Billy Bob being "saved" by being thrown clear of his pickup roll over accident when he was out drinking one night. Nothing personal to anyone, but I chose to not take my advice from such people.
I don't know that myth about grade 70 is debunked. All written manuals and publications refer to grade 70 as "transport" chain or transport grade. Grade 43 is "high test" and a high strength general purpose chain, but nowhere is it listed as a transport chain. What 'myth' are you talking about?
If you take the stated static g force requirements for a blocked and non-rolling load you are required to use a chain with a minimum WLL of .8 of the cargo weight for front and rear securing and .5 for lateral securing. Physics class 101 will teach you that objects fall or accelerate at 32ft. per second sq. That is even mentioned in the links you provide. Given that fact, and combining that fact with the known fact that a light duty 7500 pound or even 10,000 pound trailer will certainly flex with even a modest 4000 pound load on them as they traverse over dips in the road and with other imperfections on the road you will get another equation.
You then have to add to the static WLL requirements by the new forces exerted by your load in motion, or as it is in effect in motion by the flexion of your trailer. If you take the simple equation of 32 ft. per second squared and apply a 6" acceleration of your secured mass (very easily achieved by either loose securement or the flexion of the trailer, you will come up with a shock load of at least double the static WLL securement previous listed as .8 of the weight of the cargo to be secured. So, if you take a tractor weighing 5000 pounds with all ballasts, implements and other equipment, you can easily arrive at a required WLL factor of 1.6 of that 5000 pounds, or 8000 pounds. If there is any accident involved, that can easily multiply the required WLL factor many times over. I am only talking about normal transporting.
In my case last year, I had two securing devices that each had a rating of 3300 pounds on both the front and rear of my tractor. I was transporting a tractor that had roughly a gross weight of 7000 pounds as equipped. If you take the static WLL formula of .8, it would appear as if I was plenty safe with a calculated WLL of 5600 pounds since I had 6600 pounds total WLL in the two securing devices on either end.
However, take into that equation the fact that the calculated WLL of .8 can easily be doubled with a simple 10k trailer flexing under a load while in transit, and double that .8 to 1.6, you now come up with a minimum requried WLL of 11,200 pounds. Doing the math on the setup I had now shows that a combined WLL of 6600 pounds on each end is considerably under what would be required to be safe. Two 3/8" grade 70 transport chains on each end gives me a combined WLL of 13,200. That exceeds the new calculated WLL by what would be a reasonable margin. Even if I had used grade 43 high test, not transport chain, I may have not been okay since 3/8" of that general purpose chain would have given me a combined WLL of 10,800; in theory not enough to handle the calculated WLL requirement of 11,200 pounds.
I would say that grade 43 chains would be far superior to any ratcheting binders using nylon straps by a far margin. However, it is not designed for transport as is grade 70. But, I do often see people grossly overloading their trailers and pickups on a frequent basis. For the most part they get by with doing so (as have I in the past), but the laws of physics will eventually catch up with them. Also, keep in mind, the DOT securements posted are the minimum acceptable standards. I don't know about you, but I generally do not go by minimum acceptable standards. To me, that is akin to people thinking that they should safely be able to exceed their hauling and towing ratings from the factory. I assume that these people are the same as the ones I still hear proclaim the greater safety of not using seat belts because of some story of Billy Bob being "saved" by being thrown clear of his pickup roll over accident when he was out drinking one night. Nothing personal to anyone, but I chose to not take my advice from such people.
MikeD74T
Veteran Member
Dargo, It simply debunks the statements that only grade 70 chain is allowed. It clearly states adequate chain of any grade is legal to use. No where in the manual does it define "transport" as a grade requirement, although it may imply a preference. If none other was allowed the chart would only list the WLL of different sizes of grade 70. I'm not advocating the use of less than grade 70 I'm just saying it's legal. As for safety factor, I'm satisfied that DOT has factored enough safety into the requirements that doubling them is unnecessary. They also offer a good explaination of the relavent load factors to be overcome. What I do advocate is that anyone who transports should print, carry, and understand the regulations to support their application. DOT officers are not always the experts that their badge implies. I've seen vehicles needlessly grounded, towed, or ticketed by an officer's (and owners) lack of knowledge. Someone here said -at least look like you know what you're doing. Unlike some I'm not pushing opinion, just making availible the regulation someone asked for.
John Bud -The only WI regulation I could find is the one for logs. It appears that they rely on Feds for the rest. I searched the WI website for "load securement, cargo securement, binder(s), chain(s), transport".
John Bud -The only WI regulation I could find is the one for logs. It appears that they rely on Feds for the rest. I searched the WI website for "load securement, cargo securement, binder(s), chain(s), transport".
OK. I will make sure the grade chain I purchase is 70. Would assume that the chain I briefly looked at while visiting my dealer is, but then again, I can't say for certain. I Will call tomorrow. With such chain, is it necessary to have four different chains, one on each corner, or is one longer one for the front and back sufficient if it is pulled to the four corners of the trailer?
I have also found the 70 grade chain and dixie binders at an Ace very near the dealer. If I need four chains, I'll have them cut etc. The dealers suggestion was to use one on the front and one on the back, yet pulled to the four corners of the trailer.
I have also found the 70 grade chain and dixie binders at an Ace very near the dealer. If I need four chains, I'll have them cut etc. The dealers suggestion was to use one on the front and one on the back, yet pulled to the four corners of the trailer.
Builder
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( " Grade 70 is the ONLY legal binder chain for wheeled loads in the United States. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about. You may not be ticketed for G43, but you are operating on borrowed time.
Don't go cheap on safety equipment. ")</font>
I wholeheartedly agree, but according to the book "Understanding the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration's Cargo Securement Rules", published by the U.S. Department of Transportation, on page 14 & 15, it lists all grades of chain, from grade 30 proof (lowest) through Grade 100 alloy (highest). All these types of chain are considered "legal".
In fact, on page 13 subsection 393.108 paragraph D it says: "welded steel chain, which is not marked or labeled to enable identification of its grade or working load limit shall be considered to have a working load limit equal to that for grade 30 proof chain"
So even an unmarked 3/8" chain will be considered to have a wll of 2,650 lbs. and is accepted as being legal.
All that said, I use Grade 70 transport chain becuase I believe in overkill.
Don't go cheap on safety equipment. ")</font>
I wholeheartedly agree, but according to the book "Understanding the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration's Cargo Securement Rules", published by the U.S. Department of Transportation, on page 14 & 15, it lists all grades of chain, from grade 30 proof (lowest) through Grade 100 alloy (highest). All these types of chain are considered "legal".
In fact, on page 13 subsection 393.108 paragraph D it says: "welded steel chain, which is not marked or labeled to enable identification of its grade or working load limit shall be considered to have a working load limit equal to that for grade 30 proof chain"
So even an unmarked 3/8" chain will be considered to have a wll of 2,650 lbs. and is accepted as being legal.
All that said, I use Grade 70 transport chain becuase I believe in overkill.
OkieG
Veteran Member
jb,
Like you I use one chain in front and one in back. Skimming through the Federal Reg. shows heavy equipment (>10,000#) requires a minimum of 4 tiedowns. Does the reg. address small tractors weighing less than 10,000#? The reg. states cars, light trucks and vans weighing less than 10,000# require a minimum of two tiedowns. Wonder if we fall under that section? Didn't see anything addressing attached implements, either.
As long as the G-force requirements are met, maybe one front and one rear tiedown chain is OK for small tractors?? The local (Oklahoma) trucking web site seems to defer to the Federal reg. as the applicable rule.
Wonder if using the parking brake means the tractor is not likely to roll which would require chocks or wedges?
OkieG
Like you I use one chain in front and one in back. Skimming through the Federal Reg. shows heavy equipment (>10,000#) requires a minimum of 4 tiedowns. Does the reg. address small tractors weighing less than 10,000#? The reg. states cars, light trucks and vans weighing less than 10,000# require a minimum of two tiedowns. Wonder if we fall under that section? Didn't see anything addressing attached implements, either.
As long as the G-force requirements are met, maybe one front and one rear tiedown chain is OK for small tractors?? The local (Oklahoma) trucking web site seems to defer to the Federal reg. as the applicable rule.
Wonder if using the parking brake means the tractor is not likely to roll which would require chocks or wedges?
OkieG
MikeD74T
Veteran Member
393.128 - Automobiles, Light Trucks and Vans
This portion of the new standards applies to the transportation of automobiles, light trucks, and vans which individually weight 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs) or less. Vehicles which individually are heavier than 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs) must be secured in the same manner as heavy vehicles, equipment and machinery (see the rules under /393.126).
393.130 - Heavy Vehicles, Equipment and Machinery
These requirements are applicable to the transportation of heavy vehicles, equipment and machinery which operate on wheels or tracks, such as front end loaders, bulldozers, tractors and power shovels and which individually weigh 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs) or more. Vehicles, equipment and machinery which is lighter than 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs) may be secured in accordance with these rules, the rules for automobiles, light trucks and vans, or the general freight requirements.
This portion of the new standards applies to the transportation of automobiles, light trucks, and vans which individually weight 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs) or less. Vehicles which individually are heavier than 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs) must be secured in the same manner as heavy vehicles, equipment and machinery (see the rules under /393.126).
393.130 - Heavy Vehicles, Equipment and Machinery
These requirements are applicable to the transportation of heavy vehicles, equipment and machinery which operate on wheels or tracks, such as front end loaders, bulldozers, tractors and power shovels and which individually weigh 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs) or more. Vehicles, equipment and machinery which is lighter than 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs) may be secured in accordance with these rules, the rules for automobiles, light trucks and vans, or the general freight requirements.
Av8r3400
Platinum Member
Good post Dargo.
I'll try once again to communicate this. Although I cannot provide a link to the laws, I will explaing the chain grade differece.
Gr 43 and below is a low carbon steel chain. It is a multi use chain which, by its material grade, has been load tested and found to have the given capacities. It is tough and durable but is vulnerable to corrosion and stress cracking which makes it a less than desirable transport securing material. It is also much weaker than the higher (number) grades.
Gr 80 and above is a high carbon steel chain which is designed for lifting slings. It is very SOFT and not very durable. It will in fact STRETCH up to 15% of its length before failure. This is designed in so that a crane operator can visually see the impending failure and put down the load. Because of its soft, unprotected steel make up, it is also very prone to corrosion. It must be oiled and clean if used outrside. Dirt and sand will grind away the links in very little time. In lifting applications there is a 10:1 safety factor built into its ratings. However, the soft nature, corrosion possibilities and stretching (leading to disengagement) of the steel used in this type of chain will make this a very poor transport choice as well.
Gr 70 (7, 70, 700, 707 all the same) is designed as TRANSPORT CHAIN. It has a very hard outter layer and (usually) a gold colored annodizing to protect it from abrasion and corrosion. It will stretch very little before failure so that loads cannot move or become unhooked. In its ratings also have built in a 5:1 safety factor which is not present in the lower grades.
Do what you want. Tie down with rubber bands for all I care.
I'll try once again to communicate this. Although I cannot provide a link to the laws, I will explaing the chain grade differece.
Gr 43 and below is a low carbon steel chain. It is a multi use chain which, by its material grade, has been load tested and found to have the given capacities. It is tough and durable but is vulnerable to corrosion and stress cracking which makes it a less than desirable transport securing material. It is also much weaker than the higher (number) grades.
Gr 80 and above is a high carbon steel chain which is designed for lifting slings. It is very SOFT and not very durable. It will in fact STRETCH up to 15% of its length before failure. This is designed in so that a crane operator can visually see the impending failure and put down the load. Because of its soft, unprotected steel make up, it is also very prone to corrosion. It must be oiled and clean if used outrside. Dirt and sand will grind away the links in very little time. In lifting applications there is a 10:1 safety factor built into its ratings. However, the soft nature, corrosion possibilities and stretching (leading to disengagement) of the steel used in this type of chain will make this a very poor transport choice as well.
Gr 70 (7, 70, 700, 707 all the same) is designed as TRANSPORT CHAIN. It has a very hard outter layer and (usually) a gold colored annodizing to protect it from abrasion and corrosion. It will stretch very little before failure so that loads cannot move or become unhooked. In its ratings also have built in a 5:1 safety factor which is not present in the lower grades.
Do what you want. Tie down with rubber bands for all I care.
Mike,
Yeah, I searched the WI site too and only found the log deal. But, there are a LOT of log trucks in the northern half of the state.
I saved the fed link you provided (thanks). Guess it means I am legal! That's good as they are getting pretty nozy around here.
jb
Yeah, I searched the WI site too and only found the log deal. But, there are a LOT of log trucks in the northern half of the state.
I saved the fed link you provided (thanks). Guess it means I am legal! That's good as they are getting pretty nozy around here.
jb
MikeD74T
Veteran Member
I think regulations for hauling logs far preceeded DOT and have been on the books for many years.
Highbeam
Super Member
Thanks Mike. I agree that the G70 being required as the ONLY LEGAL transport chain is a myth. I wear my seatbelt too.
I suppose there are those who insist that you must check the torque on your lugnuts with each drive of your car.
While I see that straps or even rope seem to be legal for binding I would advise against the use of straps on wheeled vehicles due to their rapid decomposition with exposure to sublight, mud, and fraying. I have gone through nylon (or whatever they're made of) tie downs in the motorcycle world due to fray.
My G43 chain has a chrome looking coating that seems to be holding up just fine to year round exposure to the elements.
I suppose there are those who insist that you must check the torque on your lugnuts with each drive of your car.
While I see that straps or even rope seem to be legal for binding I would advise against the use of straps on wheeled vehicles due to their rapid decomposition with exposure to sublight, mud, and fraying. I have gone through nylon (or whatever they're made of) tie downs in the motorcycle world due to fray.
My G43 chain has a chrome looking coating that seems to be holding up just fine to year round exposure to the elements.
npaden
Platinum Member
Okay, I just got my tractor home using straps and can vouch that straps are not going to get it done. The front strap broke twice and the rear strap broke once. I was very lucky to make it home with the tractor.
I was looking at harbor freight and they have 5,400lb ratcheting load binders for 3/8" chain but the only grade 70 chain they carry is 5/16". The rating on 5/16" grade 70 chain is plenty for my tractor, but I'm not sure a 3/8" rachet will work with 5/16" chain or will it?
I can't find any grade 70 chain anywhere else in town.
Thanks, Nathan
I was looking at harbor freight and they have 5,400lb ratcheting load binders for 3/8" chain but the only grade 70 chain they carry is 5/16". The rating on 5/16" grade 70 chain is plenty for my tractor, but I'm not sure a 3/8" rachet will work with 5/16" chain or will it?
I can't find any grade 70 chain anywhere else in town.
Thanks, Nathan
GeneD14
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A 3/8" binder will work with 5/16" chain. All of my chain is grade 70 5/16" and all of my binders are 3/8".
GeneD14
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My local TSC store sells grade 70 chain and so does our Lowes lumber yard.
Dargo
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I almost don't bother to post facts on chain and binders anymore because most people here simply want to find someone else to agree with them that going cheap and using unacceptable and unsafe binding materials is okay. I'm sure that you'd find someone here who will rather strongly advise that using your parking brake would be plenty as long as you lock it in four wheel drive. However, since you have not been here for very long, I won't group you with those. As you likely noticed, nylon straps are under no circumstances acceptable to attach a tractor to a trailer. Fraying, sunlight, degrading etc. has positively nothing to do with them not being safe. They will not hold your load, period.
Any grade of chain will be better than nylon straps; period. Also, they do grade chain for a reason. It is not marketing strategy or just for fun. It's sort of like using the right tool for the job. You know, you can likely take nuts off of your tractor with vice grips, but there is a more appropriate tool you can use to do the job properly and it won't really cost you any more. If you don't care if your tractor exits off the rear of your trailer, don't bother using anything at all. If you do care about your tractor, I'd rather strongly suggest you use the right tool for the job. The great thing is that the right tool for the job won't cost you even $50 more than the wrong tool.
If you have a Tractor Supply, Rural King, Lowes, or Home Depot store in your area, you can likely buy some 3/8" grade 70 chain to go along with your 3/8" binders you found. Will the 5/16" grade 70 chain work? Most likely. But, for about $10 more, wouldn't you rather do it right? Heck, you can probably save another $10 from the grade 70 5/16" and get 3/8" grade 30 chain. It too will probably work. It all depends on what you want to accomplish. Since I nearly lost my tractor early last year off of my trailer due to my own stupidity, I took it upon myself to research the subject and buy the proper binding materials since my tractor is worth more than $100. Even if it were not, I'd rather not have to worry about killing someone else because I wanted to save $10.
I don't mean to sound sarcastic, but the laws of physics don't really change much nor do the laws of averages. I posted the physics and equations earlier to enable you to calculate the strength of binding material you should need when taking into consideration the flexing of a 10k and smaller trailer. That equation is not good for figuring the size needed to keep your tractor on your trailer in the case of an accident. I found the equations for that that where you simply enter the weight of your tractor and the speed of the crash. I won't bother to post it here though. No need. Those who want to be safe will and those who want to save $10 will not. At least you are smarter than I was, and you are asking about what material to use. There is plenty of good advice and plenty of bad advice. It's simply your mission to decide which is which and do what you feel best. Either way, you're ahead of the curve for doing your research and asking questions. Good luck!
Any grade of chain will be better than nylon straps; period. Also, they do grade chain for a reason. It is not marketing strategy or just for fun. It's sort of like using the right tool for the job. You know, you can likely take nuts off of your tractor with vice grips, but there is a more appropriate tool you can use to do the job properly and it won't really cost you any more. If you don't care if your tractor exits off the rear of your trailer, don't bother using anything at all. If you do care about your tractor, I'd rather strongly suggest you use the right tool for the job. The great thing is that the right tool for the job won't cost you even $50 more than the wrong tool.
If you have a Tractor Supply, Rural King, Lowes, or Home Depot store in your area, you can likely buy some 3/8" grade 70 chain to go along with your 3/8" binders you found. Will the 5/16" grade 70 chain work? Most likely. But, for about $10 more, wouldn't you rather do it right? Heck, you can probably save another $10 from the grade 70 5/16" and get 3/8" grade 30 chain. It too will probably work. It all depends on what you want to accomplish. Since I nearly lost my tractor early last year off of my trailer due to my own stupidity, I took it upon myself to research the subject and buy the proper binding materials since my tractor is worth more than $100. Even if it were not, I'd rather not have to worry about killing someone else because I wanted to save $10.
I don't mean to sound sarcastic, but the laws of physics don't really change much nor do the laws of averages. I posted the physics and equations earlier to enable you to calculate the strength of binding material you should need when taking into consideration the flexing of a 10k and smaller trailer. That equation is not good for figuring the size needed to keep your tractor on your trailer in the case of an accident. I found the equations for that that where you simply enter the weight of your tractor and the speed of the crash. I won't bother to post it here though. No need. Those who want to be safe will and those who want to save $10 will not. At least you are smarter than I was, and you are asking about what material to use. There is plenty of good advice and plenty of bad advice. It's simply your mission to decide which is which and do what you feel best. Either way, you're ahead of the curve for doing your research and asking questions. Good luck!
npaden
Platinum Member
I found some 3/8" grade 70 chain at a local tool supply store for $36.95 for 20' with hooks. The 5/16" grade 70 chain at Harbor Freight is $23.99 for 20' with hooks.
Harbor Freight as a 3/8" rachet binder rated at 9,200lbs for $19.99 I might get it instead of the one rated for 5,400lbs for $15.99.
Looks like I can go for overkill with the 3/8" grade 70 and the 9,200lb rated binders for $113.88 or skimp a little and get the 5/16" grade 70 chain and the 5,400lb rated binders for $79.96. That's $33.92 and not much more than the price of the completely worthless straps that I used on the haul home. Either one is WAY better than straps!! I will probably go for the overkill and get the 3/8" chain and the heavy duty binders.
I actually didn't buy the tie down straps, the guy I bought the tractor from bought them for me but the were a complete waste of $28.94!
Harbor Freight as a 3/8" rachet binder rated at 9,200lbs for $19.99 I might get it instead of the one rated for 5,400lbs for $15.99.
Looks like I can go for overkill with the 3/8" grade 70 and the 9,200lb rated binders for $113.88 or skimp a little and get the 5/16" grade 70 chain and the 5,400lb rated binders for $79.96. That's $33.92 and not much more than the price of the completely worthless straps that I used on the haul home. Either one is WAY better than straps!! I will probably go for the overkill and get the 3/8" chain and the heavy duty binders.
I actually didn't buy the tie down straps, the guy I bought the tractor from bought them for me but the were a complete waste of $28.94!
JerryG
Super Member
I bought two 5/16 x 20 grade 70 chains with hooks yeasteday. Both of these chains had 3/8 hooks on them. BTW, Harbor Freight has these chains for $16.99 and boomers for $11.99 until March 27, I think was the right date.
