Chains instead of a top link for bush hog?

[LD1]

ever seen someone wrapped up in a pto shaft moving at 540... it's fast..

Sure, it may seem fast at that instant, but fast is a relative term. Considering what other IDENTICAL u-joints in auto applications spin, 540 is slow. Or about 13 MPH in a truck with 4.10's and 33" tires. Same truck running 60MPH has u-joints spinning 2500RPM+, and possibly @ 15* angles CONSTANTLY.

Again, speed is relative.

I'm not here to 2nd guess the team of engineers and fabricators

Isnt that what we do best here on TBN

I'm guessing they actually did some testing on it, not just slapped it and 'that's good' and went on...

you are free to do what you want with your equipment.. however I think you are doing a dis-service to your fellow man by waving your hand and saying the industry standard specs on driveline anges and wear are hogwash.

unless you are perhaps implying you are going to warranty the labor and materials for the asker ?

soundguy

Dont get me wrong, I am not saying that it wont wear out joints faster. Because we all know it will. BUT how much faster is what I am questioning. And how much faster they wear out, I would not call EXTREME.

Again, said truck can possibly have 15* angles and spinning 2500RPM CONSTANTLY vs Bushhog @ 1/5th the speed, less HP, and only a few degrees of angle more:confused2:

I would guess that if a person could get 4 years out of a bushhog NOT doing what is pictured, they may shorten the life by 1 season if the intermittenly did what is pictured. IMO, that is not extreme. Now it the person in that pic is changing joints yearly, vs every 4 or 5 with a similar hour FLAT machine, THAT I would call extreme. But I believe that isnt and wouldnt be the case.

 

[Rockgod]

looks like a great place for a cv shaft.. I have them on my JD batwing and mid mount mowers. no knocking and rocking at angles..

soundguy

Soundguy,

Did your JD batwing come with cv shafts or did you upgrade them?

 

[Soundguy]

came with em.. but then.. I didn't buy it new.. so not sure if prev owner ( horse farm ) upgraded them or not.

service manual for my mower shows BOTH options.. the regular u joit setup and an upgraded CV joint... so again.. I don't know if the horse farm got it that way or upgraded it.. etc.

my mower is a 1998 year model.. etc..

soundguy

 

[Glen Watkins]

I have been wondering about this topic for a while and saw some mention of hydraulic top links. Wouldn't an HTL on float be the ultimate setup for uneven, hilly terrain to follow the ground yet when you need rigidity for raising and lowering to cut certain areas or traveling work best?

 

[LD1]

I have been wondering about this topic for a while and saw some mention of hydraulic top links. Wouldn't an HTL on float be the ultimate setup for uneven, hilly terrain to follow the ground yet when you need rigidity for raising and lowering to cut certain areas or traveling work best?

Possibly, but I dont see where one would be needed when your "float" mechanism is a chain that goes from the a-frame (lift fram) of the bushhog down to the deck.

I set my toplink where I have enough slack for the range of travel I need for the terrain I am cutting, but not so much that I cannot lift the cutter up. So far, I have not found myself wanting for a HTL when using my cutter.

 

[TripleR]

I have been wondering about this topic for a while and saw some mention of hydraulic top links. Wouldn't an HTL on float be the ultimate setup for uneven, hilly terrain to follow the ground yet when you need rigidity for raising and lowering to cut certain areas or traveling work best?

I "think" the key is tailoring your set up to your individual needs as there are almost always more than one way to do something. For some when comparing the cost of rear remotes and HTL, chains look really good.

I think I will have it all figured out just about the time I croak or get too old to drive a tractor which may not be all that far away.

Very interesting thread.

 

[Glen Watkins]

I don't use a quick hitch which would make a difference I think and most of what I mow is hilly. But some places are kind of rough or very steep creek edges and such. So it would be nice to just hit a lever to be able to tighten the top link and raise the mower up some but still keep it level to mow some rough spots and over hang some steep banks as the need arises. It seems like you would get more movement for following ground contours when you need it and less when you needed it, easily. Make sense? I guess I am trying to justify an HTL and stay in the seat!

 

[TripleR]

I don't use a quick hitch which would make a difference I think and most of what I mow is hilly. But some places are kind of rough or very steep creek edges and such. So it would be nice to just hit a lever to be able to tighten the top link and raise the mower up some but still keep it level to mow some rough spots and over hang some steep banks as the need arises. It seems like you would get more movement for following ground contours when you need it and less when you needed it, easily. Make sense? I guess I am trying to justify an HTL and stay in the seat!

I started using an HTL a couple of years ago and it has been one of the best things I have ever bought. Mine is not set up to float, but might work better that way.

 

[BlacknTan]

Honestly, I see all the brouhaha about 2 degrees beyond recommended driveline angles to be much ado about nothing... A tempest in a teapot! I see U joints as wear items that could eventually needing replacement, and I'm not going to allow going a few degrees beyond arbitrary recommended limits as a reason to stop me from getting a job done.

My cutter is designed to cut where cutting needs to be done. If it means shortening the life of my U joints by days or hours... So be it. I think that more U joints need replacement for lack of lubrication than marginally exceeding recommended limits of usage from time to time..

 

[LD1]

Honestly, I see all the brouhaha about 2 degrees beyond recommended driveline angles to be much ado about nothing... A tempest in a teapot! I see U joints as wear items that could eventually needing replacement, and I'm not going to allow going a few degrees beyond arbitrary recommended limits as a reason to stop me from getting a job done.

My cutter is designed to cut where cutting needs to be done. If it means shortening the life of my U joints by days or hours... So be it. I think that more U joints need replacement for lack of lubrication than marginally exceeding recommended limits of usage from time to time..

+1:thumbsup: