Chains instead of a top link for bush hog?

[greg_g]

I started using an HTL a couple of years ago and it has been one of the best things I have ever bought. Mine is not set up to float, but might work better that way.

X2. Nor have I ever seen a HTL that floats either. Technically though, any "float" feature would be a function of the control valve for the rear remotes - rather than of the cylinder itself.

I use my HTL in conjunction with floating toplink brackets (FTB) on those implements so equipped. Take a rotary cutter for example; HTL fully retracted for transport, then - when it's time to mow - extended enough to give the FTB at least 90 degrees of pivot for terrain following.

//greg//

 

[Glen Watkins]

X2. Nor have I ever seen a HTL that floats either. Technically though, any "float" feature would be a function of the control valve for the rear remotes - rather than of the cylinder itself.

//greg//

I thought that with the 3rd SCV lever in "float" that the cylinder would be free to extend and retract? Am I wrong on this ?

 

[greg_g]

Well, I've only had HTLs on two tractors, so my hands-on experience is limited. One was Chinese - a 45hp/4wd KAMA utility - and the other is my current JD3720 compact. Both are controlled by conventional 4-way/3-position/open center valves:

which means fluid only flows to/from the cylinder when the SCV lever is moved one direction or the other. When the lever is centered, the fluid makes a loop through the valve and simply returns to the sump. This eliminates "shock load" at the pump, and locks the cylinder ram in whichever position the control lever last set it. When centered, the fluid in the loop through the valve and the cylinder doesn't flow. And a cylinder needs flow to "float". Given that I use floating toplink brackets (FTBs) where appropriate, I have no need to "float" the HTL. But if I wanted to, I'd have replaced the OE control valve with the type of valve that permited me - on the fly - to configure the center in a fashion that permits that loop.

So - if you wish to pursue "float" - your first move is to determine which type valve controls your rear SCV. Then - assuming you find a conventional 4-way/3-position open center valve - replace it with a 4-way/4-position/open center float spool control valve where the 4th position configures the valve to loop flow on the cylinder side. So for those with conventional 4-way/3-position open center control valves, it can be done. But a much simpler and considerably less expensive option is to install whichever FTB type is appropriate to your implement; U-type, strap type, bar type, et cetera.

//greg//

 

[Glen Watkins]

Thanks for the info Greg. I just have the stock 3rd SCV that came on the 4320 and when you push the lever forward it goes into float mode. I have the U shaped top link on the finish mower that I use but there is places that when I have the manual top link loose with the U bracket hanging straight down there is places that I could use more free play.

 

[greg_g]

It's my understanding that particular float capability is for the front SCVs, typically so you can let the FEL do some limited terrain-following. Don't know if that float capability extends to the mid SCVs, cuz I spec'd my 3720 without them (no belly mower). But I've got two sets of rear SCVs - solenoid controlled by a switch on the right console - one set for the HTL, one general-purpose. Usually that 2nd set is connected to the grapple cylinders on the 4-in-1 bucket up front. But to the best of my knowledge, neither set of rear SCVs floats.

Now there's a chance that I'm the one that's misinterpreting the capabilities of my own 3720. But for the moment I'm working under the impression that there's no rear-SCV float capability, and not much other than size differs between the 3720 and the 4320. But if you've actually demonstrated that you can make your HTL float when connected to a rear SCV, let me know how. I'm always up to learning something new.

//greg//

 

[TripleR]

Here is some info:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/43885-float-rear-remote-valve.html

 

[electrarc]

I think it may depend on your version of steep. My drive shaft (PTO) is short to allow steep approach angels without binding. However when I go over a steep edge I am concerned that without chains the drive shaft may disengage (That would ruin my day). I have stopped and checked this and adjust the chains to ensure the PTO shaft is safe under all conditions.

You can see the chains straining in the photo. This is normal operating conditions for me.

Cheers

 

[greg_g]

No offense, I'm not pickin' on you specifically. It's just that you're the most recent of several participants that have misinterpreted the OP's original question. Even the thread title itself clearly addresses the feasibility of replacing a rigid toplink with chain. Replacing lift straps with chain addresses a considerably different geometry. Toplinks are considered an extension of the tractor, much the same as the lower lift arms. Lift straps are clearly a component of the mower itself.

//greg//

 

[BlacknTan]

After the original post, threads take on a life of their own, and meander back and forth, sometimes completely off topic. As long as useful information is being exchanged, that is not a bad thing, IMHO...

We're all men. I don't believe we need a self appointed arbiter or judge.

 

[electrarc]

No offense, I'm not pickin' on you specifically. It's just that you're the most recent of several participants that have misinterpreted the OP's original question. Even the thread title itself clearly addresses the feasibility of replacing a rigid toplink with chain. Replacing lift straps with chain addresses a considerably different geometry. Toplinks are considered an extension of the tractor, much the same as the lower lift arms. Lift straps are clearly a component of the mower itself.

//greg//

No Offense taken. I live 35 klms from the nearest town and come here for advise and contact. I work the farm alone (Just one slip). I modified this old brush hog from ideas I got HERE because I work on very steep land & I thank the people who took the time to tell me how to do it. I tried, no top link, chain top link, solid lift straps, my finishing mower has floating top link and lower links and still has problems on these slopes.

I push my hog up slopes over 35 degrees and drop it over at the top, not what it was made for? But that is what I have to do with it.

The joints on my PTO will get hammered and then I will buy new ones. It all comes at a cost $$$ .:thumbsup: